Someone slap me.... please

I'm not sure how exactly they'll prep for the pool??? I know they are bringing in machines, and there will definitely be some leveling to do. The installers came highly recommended by the pool sales company, and also had good reviews online. I know they also do in-ground pool installation, so I'm assuming they'll easily be able to assess what they need to do. Here are a couple of pictures of where the pool will be going:

Poolplacement2.jpg
Poolplacement1.jpg
I'm sure the pictures aren't the best.... but basically it is the longer grass area that's in between the two trees. The pool will fit in-between the trees, and won't be directly under either tree. That area does get a lot of sun. It is the part of yard that we haven't landscaped yet, so it's just very rough earth that is uneven and kinda crappy at the moment.

As for the pool and equipment, I actually don't know what the name of the pool is. He said it also by Lomart, and the only one he offers that is salt friendly. I will be getting all the details tomorrow, but here is a picture of it:
Pool_Resin.jpg

As for equipment, we are getting a 2HP/2SP Cartridge Filter, and a Hayward SWG (just getting all the details). The pool will be 25,000 gallons because it will have a deeper center (4ft on the outside, 5.5ft in the center). We will have a center drain.

I hope that answers some of your questions. As soon as I have a clear picture of everything tomorrow I'll update my signature.

Thank you!! :D
 
Oh yah! What a great backdrop for a pool. Awesome yard.

Kim, can they do without the drain? One less pipe, one less valve, one less hole in the pool? Or do they need that for convenient winterizing?
 
Main drain in an above ground pool is not needed. I was SO excited about having a main drain with my new above ground pool. I could not wait to just sweep any pool junk onto the main drain and watch it go bye-bye.........alas it does not work like I thought it would. In order for the main drain to really work I have to have it open 95% and the skimmer only 5% and the skimmer does not work with only 5% opening :( SO when we have to replace the liner we will close up the main drain hole and go without it.

If you do end up going with the main drain make sure it is plumbed with good valves on it and the skimmer so you can open and shut them as wanted/needed. That will also allow you to shut them when you need to work on the equipment. Oh and have a valve on on the return also for the same reason

Equipment-it looks like the 2hp 2 speed talks about a pump not a filter. See if you can find out a few more details on the equipment.

Unions-you will want unions on either side of all equipment so you can remove to replace or work on any thing that needs it without having to cut pipe.

Back to main drains-can be toe and pool cleaner catcher as well as a safety factor for people as far as hair catchers and such. Just somethings to think about.

Kim:kim:
 
Hi Neighbor! We are in Oak Park! Welcome to TFP!

We've been out of town so just came across your post. Been to a lot of the pool stores in the area, but glad you are here at TFP.

We have an AGP steel and just rehabbed the pool walls and replaced the liner.

We had a FROG and was that a problem. Got rid of that pretty quickly. Been following TFP advice for years, since for years pool store advice kept us in cloudy or green water. Don't let the "free water testing" get you sucked in to buying all their potions. I've had plenty of experience with that.

We put in a main drain 12 years ago and plan to recut the opening to use it again. +1 what kimkats said re: main drain not doing what I had hoped for. For us it does seem to help with water circulation and keeping the pump running when people are in the pool. We close the valve going to the skimmer and open the main drain while people are "splashing around" and still run the pump.

Blowing out the main drain in the winter is not a problem for us, . . . but make sure you have a valve that will let you close off the main after you blow out the lines for the winter. We knew it worked when the air bubbles are coming from the drain and then turn the valve to close the drain. I hope I'm not confusing.

So having a main drain is not needed, having a deeper end in the middle works great for many on this forum and I think you will like it. Especially when the kids get older (even the adults.)

We put our 1st pool up in August of 2006 and still had some time to swim into mid Sept. before closing it down.

:snorkle:
 
Where is Rochester Hills? A saltwater pool is wonderful. And nearly imperative if you live in the southern climates were you do not close a pool. But if in Minnesota, not such a big deal.

:wave: There are a number of people in SE Michigan that have and love their salt water pools. I'm sure you'll enjoy it. If we could find room in the budget we would get one. :cool:

- - - Updated - - -

. . . I think you can just run the pool as a conventional liquid chlorine pool with your short season. And if in a year or two you would like you can add a SWCG as by then the warranty will be nil.

+1 to what mknauss says. :cool:
 
Nlbit & Mariane:

Regarding your main, there are many ways to attack the process. Air has to naturally be used to remove water and create an "air lock" in the system. Below, in my thread I provide a very detailed process. You can purchase a blow out plug with a Schrader valve and use an air compressor as this will work on your end, if you do not have a shut off valve. Even with a shut off valve, the plug is a neat little idea. Even with the pump housing basket. Any help needed, please ask. Even though a homeowner, I close a few pools during the year only for my friends. As they say in Latin "Gratis".

Concept of closing an IG Swimming Pool

The concept of closing an in ground swimming pool
 
Thank you so much Catanzaro. :cool:
My husband has made an attachment that he connects to his pancake compressor to blow out the lines and then shuts the valve. He also make disconnects (that's what I call them) then we use a plug to stop water from getting into the underground pipes. He also blows out the heater and we dismantle the filter, cover it and take out the drain plug and let it sit out all winter. I leave the return opening and skimmer opening unplugged in case of rain over flowing the pool or getting into the skimmer before the hard freeze.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
nlblit,
something else to consider: natural gas heater or solar heater. We put in a natural gas heater and it extends our swim season from mid/late May all the way into late September or early October. When the air temps are just too cold and leaves start getting too much of a nuisance to deal with we close the pool. Same reason for a pool cover, too many leaves are a nuisance to fish out of the pool.
Although we don't have SWG so I'm not sure how that would effect a heater.

:snorkle:
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.