Some questions on plumbing in a replacement pump

Jun 8, 2016
24
Kentucky
I'm going to replace my hayward 1hp pump with a harris vsp 3hp for the VS benefits and lower electrical bills (hopefully). I'm also installing a circupool rj45+ swcg.
The hayward pump came with the pool and previous owner did not use any unions or threaded fittings, and I had to fix a leak last year and that's when I discovered this no union issue. Also, the hayward pump (and all of the plumbing) is 1 1/2", the new pump it 2". Between the pump inlet and the diverter valve is only a few inches of clearance. I want to cut the fitting off to remove the pump and was hoping there is a PVC fitting/coupler that will fit inside the 1 1/2 pipe to extend it to a 1 1/2"-2" adapter and then a union:
IMG_1979.jpg

Anyone know if lowes/home depot will have something that will work without me having to replace the diverter valve?

2nd question: will going to from 1 1/2" to the 2" introduce any restriction issues? I'm by no means a plumbing expert.

Last question: Since the new pump and the swcg have electronics, should I build some sort of cover to go over all my equipment or will it be ok in the open as it is now?
 
There are PVC "inside" extenders as seen HERE. The problem I see is still space. You're really in a tight spot if the new pump was placed in the exact same position. But if you install an extender and position the new pump a few inches away from the 3-way, you should be able to make it work. I don't think there will be a flow restriction issue. As for a covering, all pool equipment is designed to be outdoors. Of course anything we can do as pool owners helps to extend the service life and cosmetic appearances of those items. I built a small lean-to over my equipment pad to protect from the summer UV rays and give a little shelter in the cold season. I even placed a small cover over my salt cell. You can see al that in the pics below.



 
I would take off the pump output plumbing and unscrew the whole pump from the suction plumbing, then you only need to buy a threaded collar and replumb
Hey, that's a thought. :goodjob: As long as the OP has enough room to wrestle that pump to turn it over (unscrew it) from the inlet adapter, that sure would help.
 
Here's an alternative that you might want to consider if you can't unscrew your pump.
  1. You could cut the PVC fitting right next to the pump, getting the existing pump out of the wayT
  2. Then carefully cut the fitting in 2 places just far enough until it almost cuts into the inside PVC pipe
  3. Use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the PVC. Be careful, as you don't want to deform the inside pipe.
  4. Pry apart the PVC along the cut and work it off of the inside pipe
  5. clean up existing pipe, attach unions/couplers/new pipe as required
I have had decent success with this in the past, with no leaks. PVC pipe and fittings typically only "melt" together on a very narrow contact line and it is fairly easy to dress and reuse.
 
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Most 3-way valves are dual size. 1 1/2" inside and 2" outside so you may be able to use a 2" coupler on the outer portion of the valve outlet. Measure to make sure.

2nd question: will going to from 1 1/2" to the 2" introduce any restriction issues? I'm by no means a plumbing expert.
No issue.
 
I REALLY Like Poolgates suggestion. I consider the method I gave as a last resort, and only posted it as an alternative if you don't have other options. that being said, cutting the pipes below the 90 degree elbows at your diverter valve at the pump suction and replumbing from that point forward, might be your best option of all.
 
Was hoping to get the pump going last night, but could NOT get the pump outlet union to stop leaking where it threads into the top of the pump. The pump came with two unions from Harris. They fit a little loose. I tried teflon tape, and then switched to pipe dope, would not stop leaking. After work today, plan on stopping by lowes or home depot and see if I can find an o-ring that will fit over the threads of the male part of the union that threads into the pump and seal between the fitting and the pump. That, with pipe dope, will hopefully stop the leak.

p.s., the instructions that come with the Harris vsp are useless - nothing about how to program the pump. I'll be googling for that.
 

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