Sure. So, when I pour the pool water (or in this case, the diluted pool water) PLUS R-0013 mixture from the CYA mixing bottle into the viewing tube, well before it even reaches the 100 mark I am no longer able to see the black dot. So, what I've been doing - perhaps incorrectly - is adding the difference between where I stop seeing the dot up to 100, which seems to be about 40, TO 100. I guess I don't know what to do if the mixture doesn't even get to the 100 line and I can no longer see the dot.
Some questions about my TF-100 test results
- Thread starter Shannonlf2000
- Start date
- Jul 3, 2013
- 9,028
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-40
that is why we asked, unfortunately it means your CYA is above 200... any time you can not see the black dot and its below the 100 mark you have to dilute it again...
so, you will need to do 1/3 pool water and 2/3 tap water and see where you are, then you would need to multiply by 3.. if your still below 100 and can no longer see the dot you would need to do 1/4 pool water and 3/4 tap.
I can tell you that you are over 200 CYA in your pool and will need to find some way to empty and refill with new water or reverse osmosis... I wish there was another way to accomplish bringing CYA down...
so, you will need to do 1/3 pool water and 2/3 tap water and see where you are, then you would need to multiply by 3.. if your still below 100 and can no longer see the dot you would need to do 1/4 pool water and 3/4 tap.
I can tell you that you are over 200 CYA in your pool and will need to find some way to empty and refill with new water or reverse osmosis... I wish there was another way to accomplish bringing CYA down...
Sure. When I pour the water from the mixing bottle into the viewing tube, it is still well below the 100 line when I stop seeing the black dot. (Which means that the CYA is ABOVE 100, right? Because to get to the smaller numbers on the tube, you'd have to fill with more water.) What I've been doing - perhaps incorrectly - is trying to estimate how far below the 100 line it is, then I add the difference to 100.
- Jul 3, 2013
- 9,028
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-40
and you would think that would work, but chemically it does not (for some reason I have no idea 
) you are not the first person nor the last to think that way... have you come up with some way to get it down? I hope we find something for you..
) you are not the first person nor the last to think that way... have you come up with some way to get it down? I hope we find something for you..Thanks, Cowboy Casey, and sorry for writing the same info. twice about how I came up with my numbers. I didn't realize you'd already responded on page 2 of the strand (didn't even know that there WAS a page 2!); obviously I need to work on my tech savvy as well as my pool savvy! I think we're going to go ahead with our plan to drain in the fall, with temperatures a bit cooler. Until then, we'll just have to keep the chlorine high. I love Richard's solution of using pool water to irrigate the lawn, then using the lawn water for the pool, but not sure we can figure all that out logistically. I know that I've asked this question often, but is it STILL safe to swim with CYA that high, as long as chlorine stays in balance with it? I don't want to subject my kids to any possible ill effects. It is so hot here that we'd love to use the pool, but the numbers are just so high....
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,854
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Whenever you wonder if it's still safe to swim, just look at the Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart. As long as your FC is between the minimum and SLAM FC levels for your current CYA, you can swim. The FC and CYA work together and it's fine. The closer you get to your SLAM FC, you might consider giving your swim trunks an extra fresh water rinse afterwards, but otherwise you're fine.
- Jul 3, 2013
- 9,028
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-40
shannon, here is where we really need a good (or close as possible) CYA number because it is tied to your FC that you need.. when your CYA gets that high your fc needs to be really high also.. I will need Chem_geek because I do not know how high your fc would need to be, right now we now you are over 200 CYA.. try the 1/4 pool water and 3/4 tap water and see what you get and times it by 4 (at that level it is not really accurate but it will give us something to work with)
********at CYA of 200 I believe you would need to target FC of 22, but I am not positive on that number and you will be over that********
********at CYA of 200 I believe you would need to target FC of 22, but I am not positive on that number and you will be over that********
You can always roughly calculate the minimum FC/CYA level as 7.5% of the CYA level so at 200 ppm CYA that would be 15 ppm. You would target a higher number such that you never go below the 15 ppm at the lowest point during the day just before you add more chlorine.
You need to dilute the water to a point the reading is within the marks on the vial. The readings go to 100, but beyond that it's just a guess, right? Okay, no sweat, your last effort of 1:2 mixture (1 part pool water with 1 part tap water for 2 parts total) is still not within the readings. You need to dilute more. Take 1 cup of pool water and add 4 cups of tap water to make a 5 cup mixture. That will be a 1:5 dilution. Measure the CYA of that mixture (the reading should fall within the marks somewhere) and multiply by five. That's what I had to do to measure mine.
Okay, so I took 1 cup of pool water and mixed with 3 cups of tap water, and FINALLY reached 100 on the viewing tube. (And I always add the R-0013 up to the top line of the label on the mixing bottle, right?) So does that mean my CYA is roughly 400?!!?
- Jul 3, 2013
- 9,028
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool SJ-40
yes it does, it is not exact but at least we know you are between 380 to 420 range for CYA...
pool/tap water to bottom of the label and r-0013 to the top of the label..
using this calculation, you will need to stay over 30ppm free chlorine (shoot for 33) for a CYA of 400, that is a lot... I think you have a good plan of draining and replaster then refill, you may want to do it sooner than later... You are in between a rock and a hard place as the saying goes... let us know how we can help or if you need anything..
Anything below the 100 mark needs further dilution. 3 parts tap water to 1 part pool water.
Test normally and multiply by 4.
Ah, you have already got it. I must be lagging.
Test normally and multiply by 4.
Ah, you have already got it. I must be lagging.
Yep. I'm in the same boat. With water restrictions in place it's hard to justify dumping the pool and refilling. I'm in Vista Irrigation District, and I called them to ask about what kind of fines I might face if I drained my pool and refilled. To my surprise, they said there's no reason I can't do it. At this point its more an ethical quandary, living in the drought zone as we do. You ought to call your water authority and see what fines or restrictions you would face if you drained and refilled. Water cost should be about $150 or so (23k gallons in my case).
and you would think that would work, but chemically it does not (for some reason I have no idea
It's because the scale on the CYA measurement tube isn't a linear progression... It's logarithmic... That's why the markings start out closer together at the bottom (higher numbers) and get farther apart as you go up (lower numbers)...
So anytime you are between markings... You should round up-- because half way between, say 40 & 50, isn't really 45... And rounding to the higher value (50 in my example) ensures you'll always have a proper FC in your pool.
And if you don't even get to 100, then you just can't make a real guess... As the OP discovered.
��... It's almost certainly much, much higher than expected.
That's why it isn't one of the suggested products at TFP. But every once in a while it actually works. Also, some folks have had luck contacting the folks that make it and working with them to get it to work. Might be worth a few phone calls and/or e-mails.
Not to my knowledge. Can you publish an instance where it did. Please do not include the Shills for bio-active.....I think we deleted them all but some may have slipped through.
Oh, I may have talked out of turn. I have read almost every post on the site. But I haven't gone back to see if some of them have disappeared. Will check and report my findings.
Nope. There are many Bio-Active threads. As I read the follow-up on them, most did not seem to work. A few thought they might have, but it may also been testing error. I do remember one guy that had remarkable results, but may have been a shill. I'm too trusting some times...