Some algae problem

ANash

Well-known member
Apr 5, 2022
67
San Diego, CA
Pool Size
30000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello all,

First off, I would like to congratulate TFP for having this site and a community for pool owners to exchange ideas and learn from each other.

I do apologize for this long write up.

I am new to pool ownership and up until now I had been learning from YouTube and Leslie's employees. After coming across TFP, I realize some of what I learnt had been incorrect.

I have so many questions and I hope this would be the right thread for it.

Some basic info about my pool :
It is a free form, DE filter, plaster pool with spa,slide, waterfall and based on my calculations has about 30000 gallons of water. It is surrounded by bushes and trees. It also has solar heater.

Latest chemistry:
FC - 4 (recommended by Leslie's to keep it between 1 and 4)
CC - 5
Ph - 7.8
TA - 100
CyA - 73
TDS -3500
Phosphate - 857

CyA, TDS, Phi figures from Leslie's. I have a basic Taylor kit.

I use liquid chlorine and muriatic acid. I check chemistry and add chemicals every 2 days.

I am starting to see some algae forming on the walls after about 4-5 days, that I brush away. I was under the impression, the chemistry was being decently maintained.

Some of the many questions I have are below.

1. Based on CyA/FC - my pool should be maintained close to 10ppm. Is it okay to swim with such high chlorine?

2. How do I measure 10ppm FC, since my test kit only goes up to 5ppm?

3. I bought boric acid granules 55lb. Do I need to shock pool before adding boric acid (considering the algae formation)?

4. Should I clean filter before or after adding boric acid? Last cleaning was Oct, 2021, due for a another one

5. Is Leslie's chlorine any different from Walmart chlorine (same strength)? Leslie's is almost double in price.

6. Is it possible to expand my test kit? Are there add-ons available, or would I have to buy a whole new comprehensive kit?

7. Leslie's recommended draining partially or completely, to address TDS. From what I have gathered from TFP, I should not have to do it. I guess, I am just looking for a reconfirmation.

This is all I can think of at this time.

Any guidance/insight would be much appreciated.

Cheers and Happy swimming,
Avi
 
Avi,

Welcome to TFP! You need Pool School. Here are some important links for you:
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
PoolMath
FC/CYA Levels
Test Kits Compared

Also watch these videos:




We do things a lot different that you'll learn in pool stores. Many if not most get here from inevitable problems caused by pool store conflicted and/or ignorant people. Not all of them are bad. Some are actually great and all serve some important roles. Problem is you won't know which kind you have until it's too late. Start with TFP Pool School asap. After even a little education you'll soon learn how to discern good from bad. Also, keep in mind we sell nothing. All we have here are bonafide experts and experienced pool owners that volunteer their time here on TFP. Our methods use generic and cheap chemicals available from big box stores not expensive pool store potions. But you need a test kit (see the link above on test kits). You can buy them at multiple different places, but we don't sell them here. I'll take a shot at your specific questions in a few minutes. I'm sure you'll get a LOT of help from others soon as well.

I hope this is helpful.

Chris
 
full


Welcome to TFP! :wave: Stick with us for a bit. With a proper test kit and some basic knowledge (links above & below) you can have great pool water with little effort and cost.

 
1. Based on CyA/FC - my pool should be maintained close to 10ppm. Is it okay to swim with such high chlorine?
Yes, you can safely swim at or below the maximum FC for your CYA level on the chart.
2. How do I measure 10ppm FC, since my test kit only goes up to 5ppm?
See my previous post on test kits. You need a better kit, the one you're using doesn't test for FC. Also, we find pool store tests very unreliable. Use one of the ones recommended and you will have the best most consistent results available.
3. I bought boric acid granules 55lb. Do I need to shock pool before adding boric acid (considering the algae formation)?
Wait to learn how to manage your pool without boric acid first. You probably won't need them but even if you do learn basic pool care first.
4. Should I clean filter before or after adding boric acid? Last cleaning was Oct, 2021, due for a another one
As I mentioned above I would mess with boric acid yet. Definitely clean your filter as soon as possible after getting circulation started.
5. Is Leslie's chlorine any different from Walmart chlorine (same strength)? Leslie's is almost double in price.
WM Pool Essential is what a lot of members use on here. The only difference is the price. Often there are even cheaper sources.
6. Is it possible to expand my test kit? Are there add-ons available, or would I have to buy a whole new comprehensive kit?
I would start with a new TF 100 kit. I've had mine for almost 10 years. You can't do TFP methods without one of the recommended kits. They are available many places, we don't sell them we just know they produce reliable results for our 200,000+ members.
7. Leslie's recommended draining partially or completely, to address TDS. From what I have gathered from TFP, I should not have to do it. I guess, I am just looking for a reconfirmation.
We need more information about your pool. What equipment do you have? How do you disinfect it? Is it or has it been a salt pool? Please add your signature so we don't have to ask these same questions each time you post. It saves you time and our volunteers time. Here's how.

I hope this helps and I know you may have a lot of questions. Please do ask, we have many experts here to answer them.

Chris
 
Yes, you can safely swim at or below the maximum FC for your CYA level on the chart.

See my previous post on test kits. You need a better kit, the one you're using doesn't test for FC. Also, we find pool store tests very unreliable. Use one of the ones recommended and you will have the best most consistent results available.

Wait to learn how to manage your pool without boric acid first. You probably won't need them but even if you do learn basic pool care first.

As I mentioned above I would mess with boric acid yet. Definitely clean your filter as soon as possible after getting circulation started.

WM Pool Essential is what a lot of members use on here. The only difference is the price. Often there are even cheaper sources.

I would start with a new TF 100 kit. I've had mine for almost 10 years. You can't do TFP methods without one of the recommended kits. They are available many places, we don't sell them we just know they produce reliable results for our 200,000+ members.

We need more information about your pool. What equipment do you have? How do you disinfect it? Is it or has it been a salt pool? Please add your signature so we don't have to ask these same questions each time you post. It saves you time and our volunteers time. Here's how.

I hope this helps and I know you may have a lot of questions. Please do ask, we have many experts here to answer them.

Chris
Thank you Chris.

I will update my signature with all pertinent information.

I will also go through all the links and look into getting the recommended kit.
 
full


Welcome to TFP! :wave: Stick with us for a bit. With a proper test kit and some basic knowledge (links above & below) you can have great pool water with little effort and cost.

Thanks for the reply Texas splash.

Will definitely go through the links.
 
www.tftestkits.net <---a mom & pop who had a huge honkin' pool many years ago saw a need for a good test kit that contained the right tests in the right right amounts for how TFP tests their pools. Hence they made the TF-100 and its top notch. The only other one that is comparable is the Taylor K-2006C. Both use Taylor reagents.

For your FC and CC test at higher levels you will use the FAS-DPD test kit (found in both above big kits) as it measures up to 50ppm. (Not likely you'll need *that* level, but shows you how precise it can be).

Recommended Pool Chemicals

Maddie ⛳ Its golf week in Augusta!! :party:
 
www.tftestkits.net <---a mom & pop who had a huge honkin' pool many years ago saw a need for a good test kit that contained the right tests in the right right amounts for how TFP tests their pools. Hence they made the TF-100 and its top notch. The only other one that is comparable is the Taylor K-2006C. Both use Taylor reagents.

For your FC and CC test at higher levels you will use the FAS-DPD test kit (found in both above big kits) as it measures up to 50ppm. (Not likely you'll need *that* level, but shows you how precise it can be).

Recommended Pool Chemicals

Maddie ⛳ Its golf week in Augusta!! :party:
Thanks yippeeskippy. I just placed an order for the tf-100.
 
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Hey Nash and Welcome !!!

+1 to all the above links
+1 to the speedstir.
+1 to the kindness this place tosses to strangers. it never gets old seeing it

Read up and fire away with any questions or thoughts. :)
 

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Since I have some algae on the walls, but the pool itself is not green( water actually looks good), should I get prepared for a possible SLAM? Or just bring up the FC to where it should be and start maintaining levels?
 
A,

First thing you need to do is run a complete set of tests and post here. Pool store tests are very unreliable and our methods are very straight-forward. You test, then results dictate what to do. No guesswork. I've seen pool store tests so far off they can lead to incorrect "next steps". For example, if your CYA is way higher than you think you may need to drain most of your water first. If your CYA is way low you may need to add a little before you start. There are several other results you need.

Based on your current results it sure looks like you are ready to SLAM. But I can't be sure 'till I see bonafide test results.

Great to have you here with us and you've already got a very highly qualified team of people to help you get started. This won't take long. You'll be off and running on your own with little need for help in a few days. And we'll always be here to have your back if anything goes wrong. Some of the same people helping you now were here over 7 years ago helping me get started. Others started just like you are only a few years ago. This site has been invaluable for me and I'll always be a member. Now I try to give back a little helping others. Don't be surprised if you find yourself doing the same.

Chris
 
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A,

First thing you need to do is run a complete set of tests and post here. Pool store tests are very unreliable and our methods are very straight-forward. You test, then results dictate what to do. No guesswork. I've seen pool store tests so far off they can lead to incorrect "next steps". For example, if your CYA is way higher than you think you may need to drain most of your water first. If your CYA is way low you may need to add a little before you start. There are several other results you need.

Based on your current results it sure looks like you are ready to SLAM. But I can't be sure 'till I see bonafide test results.

Great to have you here with us and you've already got a very highly qualified team of people to help you get started. This won't take long. You'll be off and running on your own with little need for help in a few days. And we'll always be here to have your back if anything goes wrong. Some of the same people helping you now were here over 7 years ago helping me get started. Others started just like you are only a few years ago. This site has been invaluable for me and I'll always be a member. Now I try to give back a little helping others. Don't be surprised if you find yourself doing the same.

Chris
Thanks Chris.

As soon as I get the TF-100, I will put up the test results.

I am already loving the interaction with all your folks, and very likely will become a long term contributor.

Thanks again
 
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+1. The addition will help it not get considerably worse. Algae grows exponentially. If you go green, you've already lost the fight and it will be difficult to take control back.

Once we get you and your pool all dialed in. You'll see any problems coming from a mile away with plenty of time to react.
 
Definitely download PoolMath It will help you what you need to add, when you need to add it. Nothing more, nothing less.

As for the Daily chlorine addition, using pool math with 10% chlorine and 30K gallon pool, you should add 1.5 gallon a day to add 5ppm per day. Don't sweat it, you can eye ball it. Pour slowly (1 gallon every 2 minutes) and do it over a return. When you are done, brush the bottom of the pool. As an exercise, download pool math, and use it to figure out how to add 5ppm FC to your pool with 10% bleach.

I was in the same position as you. You can do this and we can help.

Edited by Mod to correct chlorine addition amount.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
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Edited by Mod to correct chlorine addition amount.
Thanks for the catch. Thought I was using my pool, went back and looked, was using my "test pool" that I was using to help someone else. That pool is 10K. Great catch.
 

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