Sodium Hypochlorite - SWG

[RedSkip]

I want to preface the discussion with I am not a Chemist...

Sodium Hypochlorite's chemical formula is NaClO. When breaking down organic compounds (killing) in a pool, is the "NaCl" portion of the formula spent, the "ClO", or is it the Oxygen that helps sterilize the bacteria? I'm curious if I convert my pool from liquid chlorine to a SWG if I'll need less actual salt, or if the increase in TDS is from the sodium (which I doubt since it's reactive in water). The reason I ask is I don't want to do a water change if I don't have to, but willing to if it's required. I anticipate my TDS being high with the CH @ 350 ppm and then adding addition Pool Salt for the conversion to a SWG.

Taylor 2006K results:
FC: 4-5
pH: 7.4-7.7
CH: 350
TA: 90
CYA: 70

I know I'm liking overthinking it and getting in the weeds here, but I did post this in the "Deep End". Appreciate your time...

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[Texas Splash]

A couple of our experts like @JoyfulNoise or @Donldson can really break this down for you. But in simple terms, converting from liquid to an SWG is simple and in most cases requires no water exchanges. We place little value on TDS here at TFP (in most scenarios) and rely on the accurate testing from a TF-Series or Taylor K-2006C test kit. Before going to salt, it is advised you have a Taylor K-1766 salt test kit because more than likely you do have a reasonable amount of salt already in the water as a byproduct from all the liquid chlorine, so we don't want you to over-shoot by adding to much salt. Test your salt level first and everything else should go smoothly.

I'll step back and let the others chime in when they are available.

 

[RedSkip]

A couple of our experts like @JoyfulNoise or @Donldson can really break this down for you. But in simple terms, converting from liquid to an SWG is simple and in most cases requires no water exchanges. We place little value on TDS here at TFP (in most scenarios) and rely on the accurate testing from a TF-Series or Taylor K-2006C test kit. Before going to salt, it is advised you have a Taylor K-1766 salt test kit because more than likely you do have a reasonable amount of salt already in the water as a byproduct from all the liquid chlorine, so we don't want you to over-shoot by adding to much salt. Test your salt level first and everything else should go smoothly.

I'll step back and let the others chime in when they are available.

Understood, appreciate the feedback.

 

[newdude]

I anticipate my TDS being high with the CH @ 350 ppm and then adding addition Pool Salt for the conversion to a SWG

Why does TDS matter ? The individual components are what matters. Say, 300 salt and 3500 CH, or 300 CH and 3500 salt. The answer of the maths of 3800 means bupkis.

(Etc etc etc for all components of the equation)

Total Chlorine is another totally junk stat. 6+0= 6 and 2+4=6 tell 2 entirely different stories.

 

[JamesW]

is it the Oxygen that helps sterilize the bacteria?

Chlorine kills bacteria.

Check your salinity with a K-1766 salt test kit.