Slow Baqua Conversion

[Mr. Brisbee]

Helping my in-laws with a conversion (10+ years of Baquacil) after progressively worsening white mold problems at pool opening. We started in early April. Pool was crystal clear after a month. Filter sand was changed but we can’t reach a sustainable chlorine level. Add enough chlorine nightly to reach 15 ppm and have 0 ppm the following day. Recently learned the impact CDX has on conversion.

Weighing options:

1. partial mid season drain
2. persevere with high chlorine use and drain post season
3. In-laws are in their 80’s and may just fill the pool in

I did a test to gather more info in hopes of nudging me in a direction. I scaled their pool down to a 5 gal bucket using their water and applied nightly chlorine to 15 ppm. I lost 50% daily which is much better than their 100% daily demand. At that rate, waiting post season would be manageable but I can’t explain why there is a difference. My speculation is that the white latex like bio-film in the plumbing is causing the difference in Cl demand between bucket and pool.

Just curious what others thoughts on this might be.

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome! A healthy water exchange may not be such a bad idea. Not only to help reduce the amount of baqua and CDX in the water, but also to help expedite the conversion process (still required) since chlorine availability can be challenging. Once you do a partial water exchange, then continue with the conversion process. The link below should help if you haven't see it already.

Convert Your Baqua Pool to Chlorine

This Step-by-step guide will help you transform your pool from Biguanide (Baquacil, SoftSwim hereafter referred to as Baqua) to chlorine. Read more

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[pookiesunshine]

it's quite possible you have white mold in the plumbing. after my conversion, i noticed white flakes of it coming out of my return lines. Do you see that?
Have you taken the mulitport valve off and checked inside? Anywhere in the plumbing you can break into it, reach inside the line and see if it is slimy. Light niche, if you have one. underneath the skimmer weir. underside of ladder.
Mine seemed to be mainly in the return lines, so i isolated the section between returns and outlet of last device before lines enter the ground. [in your case this would probably be after the heater or ugh, frog leap, which by the way you should probably get rid of as it adds metals.] i then treated that section of line by itself.

 

[Leebo]

I noticed you were talking in terms of days, that’s an issue.

During the conversion the chlorine will drop rapidly, to the point you should be talking in terms of hourly.

 

[anthonypool89]

t's quite possible you have white mold in the plumbing

I agree. Wonder if it'd be worthwhile using Line Clean (or a similar product) to rid the plumbing of any residual mold, etc. to aid the conversion process? While packaged as a Baquacil product, it is 43% potassium peroxymonosulfate, 29% potassium sulfate, and 23% potassium bisulfate. As such, although the stuff is "non-chlorine" shock, some quick research does not reveal any incompatibility issues. Indeed, both chlorinated and chlorine-free varieties of shock are suggested in various sites I've looked at. Perhaps FC levels would be given a boost and well as oxidizing combined chlorine. The Line Clean, for me, has worked wonders with eliminating white water mold. Just an idea.

 

[Matt_PEBKAC_Oh]

It took 12 days before mine converted and I changed the filter. I had sand but wanted better and installed DE.

My first 7-8 days I was working from home and I was testing and adding as needed every hour or two, from 7am to 10 pm. Ran pump non-stop. Even after all thar chlorine, about 24-25 gallons of 12.5%, I still had white mold in the filter tubes, multi port, in the light niche, and in the lines. Even a month later, I still had some white mold pop into the pump basket.

If you are able, turn the skimmer off pulling only from the bottom drains. Maybe get a piece of 1.5" or 2" pvc that can reach the drains, carefully pouring chlorine directly down to them. I had to add hose water on top of the chlorine in the pipe to force it out of the pipe but it did go.