Slippery Liner Steps

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This is not a great idea by any means but I've used 2000 grit sandpaper to take the haze off of plastic headlights before using plastic polish to buff them. Yes sandpaper on plastic. Wondering if something like 2000 or 1500 might be enough to give just a little roughness/traction to the vinyl ?? You could do it in the water without lowering the water level. Something to think about.
 
kiss4afrog said:
This is not a great idea by any means but I've used 2000 grit sandpaper to take the haze off of plastic headlights before using plastic polish to buff them. Yes sandpaper on plastic. Wondering if something like 2000 or 1500 might be enough to give just a little roughness/traction to the vinyl ?? You could do it in the water without lowering the water level. Something to think about.
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kiss4afrog said:
You are going to slap me for this but I have to ask. The word epoxy brings to mind a hard unflexing material being applied to a "soft" vinyl that would have different flex and expansion properties.
Have you thought to run what you're thinking of doing with it by Goop's customer service or technical department to see what they think of the application and it's possible success ??
Do you have an idea if the actual steps under the liner are fiberglass, concrete or ....

I think all the algae talk is simply due to some liners have better grip and those owners don't understand how slippery it can get.
Remember, this thing is made from vinyl too - - > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jg-Rb08SnRs
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RIRSZ said:
Friguy, don't put anything on your steps yet. I had the same issue you did last year (my first year) and now they are much better. I live next door to you in Marlboro and you're welcome to come by and check out my steps yourself. I think the liner gets a little rougher as it wears and deals with the foot traffic.
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I only ordered one can and am going to get a blow up pool and try it on that first. I'd rather use something like this than sandpaper. I have spoken to people at kayden which used to make a very similar product, said the only issue you could have is slight discoloration from the layering. Hoping that instead of a few layers, maybe a light single layer will be just enough. I'll keep everyone updated.

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friguy3 said:
Thanks, and I appreciate it, and not being rude, but like I said...its not algae. Brushed and cleaned, numbers are good. Used algaecide. Makes zero difference. Its the inherent slipperiness of a liner. (Yes, it has that "squeakiness" to it. If you rub your hand/foot on it, it does give some stick, but if you give a little extra force....slip...your hand slides without resistance). Some liner makers add a nonslip material to their steps plus there are other forums that talked about it plus there's even a product made just for this (see my other post)...its not just me and its not algae. I will go get my numbers computer tested this week again and post them. TIA

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Please don't take this the wrong way but you are basing no Algae and good numbers on a pool store test which about everyone on here will question. What are the numbers? I have a vinyl pool but the steps are not covered with the liner. My liner is not slippery at all so I find it hard to believe the water chemistry is as good as you are being told. Not much anyone on here can do to help you with the water until you post up the numbers and it would be better if the numbers came from your own testing with one of the recommended test kits.
 
jccams said:
Please don't take this the wrong way but you are basing no Algae and good numbers on a pool store test which about everyone on here will question. What are the numbers? I have a vinyl pool but the steps are not covered with the liner. My liner is not slippery at all so I find it hard to believe the water chemistry is as good as you are being told. Not much anyone on here can do to help you with the water until you post up the numbers and it would be better if the numbers came from your own testing with one of the recommended test kits.
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I'll post my numbers later, they're at home, 3 pool places (2 computerized, one with strips and I had similar results myself.) Its not slippery, I think that's a missunderstanding. Its sticky if you push down and slide your hand/foot. But if you slide your hand before you touch the liner then press as its moving it may hydroplane/slide along the liner. I'm not sure how to 100% assure anyone there is no algee. Take a sample and grow it in a lab?

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There are basically three things that will give you a pretty good idea of whether or not there are any organics in the pool and it is all explained in pool school.
1. CC less than .5
2. Pool is clear
3. Do not lose chlorine overnight
 
Maybe it's a bit of dyslexia kickin' in. In Pool School they tell you those three things are when you DON'T have any algae. That's why you can stop your SLAM and let the FC drop down to your maintenance FC target.

What would give you a good idea algae is present is:
CC over .5
Clowdy water
Excessive FC loss
 
kiss4afrog said:
Maybe it's a bit of dyslexia kickin' in. In Pool School they tell you those three things are when you DON'T have any algae. That's why you can stop your SLAM and let the FC drop down to your maintenance FC target.

What would give you a good idea algae is present is:
CC over .5
Clowdy water
Excessive FC loss
Click to expand...

My bad. I was describing the conditions that indicate no organics.
 
Not a problem. I knew exactly waht you meant to say :poke:

It's easy but it's complicated. I have a hard time putting together an answer in my head and typing it out. Been there, done that and sure I'll screw something up in the not to distant future. :roll:
At least we didn't transpose something and have somone triple dose their CYA :hammer:
 
Ok, i havent done anything yet. I got the spray, its kinda sandy, not sure my wife is gonna like that, so thats a probable no go. Finally got my water tested again:

FC 1.1
TC 1.2
pH 8.2
CYA 6

So...how did my CYA go from 40 (maybe 3-4 weeks ago) now to...6?!?! The pool guy didnt seem to think it was a big deal. Ive been reading the inaccuracies of CYA testing, and thus, I am ordering the Taylor k-2006c. It doesnt do that many cya tests but Id assume once thats a good number, you dont have to for a while. And my pH, he said 3 cups of pH down. I upped my SWCG from 50% to 65% on my own. But all in all, he seemed to be happy. My bath mats are working great so probably just stick with that and see, like you all have said, if it gets better.
 

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MBG75 said:
Once you get your test kit, you'll be able to dial in the SWG easier.

I also have a SWG, I found it easier to adjust my FC to the level I want by adding bleach. Then adjust the SWG to maintain that level.

When that test kit arrives, perform an OCLT (overnight chlorine loss test).
That's done at night. Pump on. SWG turned off.

http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/136-perform-the-overnight-fc-chlorine-loss-test-oclt
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ok thanks...ordering the 2006C just because its bigger. And BIGGER is BETTER. Right? lol
 
That is one nice kit. :goodjob:
You can always order the Speedstir separately later if you get tired of trying to swish mix chemicals while adding drops. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_EJknrPjYE&list=UUNFkPFCkt9Y_YYNAeLtUr1g
Source: http://tftestkits.net/SpeedStir-Magnetic-Stirrer-p56.html

Pool stores aren't know for accuracy and the fact they didn't seem to care it was only 6 is another problem. I wouldn't try to change it until YOU test it but once you do 70 should be the number to target. The sooner the better.
CYA - Cyanuric Acid - Protects chlorine from sunlight and determines the required FC level. (outdoors 30 to 50, SWG 70 to 80, indoors 0 to 20)
You would want to be at a CYA level of about 70 with a daily maintained FC of around 5 - > http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

Once you run out of pH down you can use muriatic acid like "we" do to do the same job but it's much cheaper (helps pay for the test kit:wink:).
Just use pool math to figure out how much acid to add to lower your pH to where you want it. - > http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
BTW, 8.2 for pH is usually the top end of how far you can test so it might be even higher. If you add pH down or muriatic acid and then test later and it's still high that could be the reason. Once you make the adjustment and let the pump circulate it for 30-60 minutes I'd have it tested again (that day, next day but soon). Your eyes really like it better if it's 7.2-7.4
 
kiss4afrog said:
That is one nice kit. :goodjob:
You can always order the Speedstir separately later if you get tired of trying to swish mix chemicals while adding drops. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_EJknrPjYE&list=UUNFkPFCkt9Y_YYNAeLtUr1g
Source: http://tftestkits.net/SpeedStir-Magnetic-Stirrer-p56.html

Pool stores aren't know for accuracy and the fact they didn't seem to care it was only 6 is another problem. I wouldn't try to change it until YOU test it but once you do 70 should be the number to target. The sooner the better.
CYA - Cyanuric Acid - Protects chlorine from sunlight and determines the required FC level. (outdoors 30 to 50, SWG 70 to 80, indoors 0 to 20)
You would want to be at a CYA level of about 70 with a daily maintained FC of around 5 - > http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

Once you run out of pH down you can use muriatic acid like "we" do to do the same job but it's much cheaper (helps pay for the test kit:wink:).
Just use pool math to figure out how much acid to add to lower your pH to where you want it. - > http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
BTW, 8.2 for pH is usually the top end of how far you can test so it might be even higher. If you add pH down or muriatic acid and then test later and it's still high that could be the reason. Once you make the adjustment and let the pump circulate it for 30-60 minutes I'd have it tested again (that day, next day but soon). Your eyes really like it better if it's 7.2-7.4
Click to expand...

MBG75 said:
Once you get your test kit, you'll be able to dial in the SWG easier.

I also have a SWG, I found it easier to adjust my FC to the level I want by adding bleach. Then adjust the SWG to maintain that level.

When that test kit arrives, perform an OCLT (overnight chlorine loss test).
That's done at night. Pump on. SWG turned off.

http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/136-perform-the-overnight-fc-chlorine-loss-test-oclt
Click to expand...

Thanks! So I did some tests (the CYA test was hard, telling if the dot is gone?!?) and the OCLT

Nighttime
FC 3 (it was 0.7 at the store/computer test with my SWCG at 50%, this was with it at 65%, big difference?!?)
CC 0.4
CYA 35
pH ~8

In the AM (Sun had come up but not on the pool)
FC 2.2

So I didnt drop by 1, but it was eh, close. Guess first I need to get my CYA up then get the pH WAY down (or other way?) and then see about the FC again? Thanks, this forum is great!
 
If you think you might need to SLAM don't up the CYA as then you will need more bleach costing you more $$$.
Bring your pH down to the proper level, make sure you pass the OCLT and then go ahead and bring up the CYA to around 70. The CYA I'd likely do in two steps. Always better to be a bit low and need to add then over and have to dump water !!
 
kiss4afrog said:
If you think you might need to SLAM don't up the CYA as then you will need more bleach costing you more $$$.
Bring your pH down to the proper level, make sure you pass the OCLT and then go ahead and bring up the CYA to around 70. The CYA I'd likely do in two steps. Always better to be a bit low and need to add then over and have to dump water !!
Click to expand...

Thanks...I didn't THINK I needed to SLAM. Water is clear and no issues outside of the initial liner post. I didn't drop by 1, but needed an extra drop to get the test 100% clear and that made it a drop overnight of 0.8. So close, but if there was algae would I see a bigger drop, like 1.5 or more? I'll bring down the pH and the do the OCLT again. Thank you thank you.

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If you only dropped .8 overnight than you should be good and don't need to SLAM. If you think your good and your numbers seem to show you are then it's fine to go ahead and put some CYA in a sock and start moving that up.

I wasn't sure when you were talking about doing a second OCLT if you were satisfied your pool was OK. Sorry to confuse you.
 
Forgive me if I am wrong here but, I didn't think the OCLT was very valid unless your FC was at shock level. I have seen on many other threads that people passed OCLT when the FC was near normal levels but failed when they raised the FC to shock level. One of the experts should clarify for everyone.
 
I can't find an answer to that one :confused:

Good eye catching it. I'm going to guess since the wording says you might need to slam and the instructions don't say to raise the FC to shock level that you don't but I'd sure like to have someones input that knows for sure on it.
 

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