SLAM ing 3.0ppm combined chlorine

I like the idea that it is a faulty test. I shocked it hard for a couple of days last week and it seemed to be stuck at 3.5ppm and now the same thing happened today. I bought a new bottle of titrating reagent and will try it tomorrow with a nice clean vial.

If the cleanliness of the vial is that critical then what is the proper handling procedure? I could boil the thing for good measure but how do professionals handle them day to day?

Mike.
 
I like the idea that it is a faulty test. I shocked it hard for a couple of days last week and it seemed to be stuck at 3.5ppm and now the same thing happened today. I bought a new bottle of titrating reagent and will try it tomorrow with a nice clean vial.

If the cleanliness of the vial is that critical then what is the proper handling procedure? I could boil the thing for good measure but how do professionals handle them day to day?

Mike.
I don't know. I'm not a professional.
 
I'd really like to know step by step how you are completing the test. What sample size, etc. in reading through the whole thread, something clearly doesn't seem right. Clear water but high CC is odd. So can you list the steps you are talking for the FC test and the CC test as well as post up all your numbers from most recent test together?
 
I have done the test with 10 Ml and with 5Ml in order to save reagent.
I add two scoops of 870 powder and mix.
Then 871 dropwise until clear.
Then 5 drops r0003
Then 871 dropwise again.

10Ml sample measured .5 ppm per drop. 5Ml sample measures 1ppm per drop.

Yesterday before the SLAM I had

10Ml sample:
CYA= 45-50
PH=7.6
FC=6.5
CC=3

- - - Updated - - -

I did an OCLT last week and if I recall the chlorine hardly changed at all but I can't remember the numbers. I'll have to do it again.

Mike.
 

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Can someone clear up a discrepancy for me?

I have read two different procedures for breaking up combined chlorine and would like to know which is correct.

The first is to raise free chlorine to 10x the combined chlorine level and hold it there until the CC clears up. In my case of 3.5 CC that would be a FC of 35ppm.

The other is to "shock" and hold it there until CC clears up which in my case shock being 20 ppm free chlorine at 50ppm CYA.

Mike.
 
The 2nd, although I dislike the word "shock" and prefer SLAM Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

Thanks, I understand the difference between shock and slam. The second procedure that I describe does say shock and hold it there until the CC is reduced which is the definition of slam.

But why are there so many references to "10 times" the combined chlorine level? It seems a random almost magical number. What is it based on?

Mike.

- - - Updated - - -

Is there a certified pool technician here that is willing to help? Maybe you've experienced something like this in the past?

Mike.
 
Anything in the pool that could be hiding organics in or under it like a ladder, steps, or perhaps algae behind a light? Someone had algae inside a Polaris one time.

Have you ever deep cleaned the sand? I don't know that it will help but I know it won't hurt.
 
Anything in the pool that could be hiding organics in or under it like a ladder, steps, or perhaps algae behind a light? Someone had algae inside a Polaris one time.

Have you ever deep cleaned the sand? I don't know that it will help but I know it won't hurt.

I have been backwashing a lot lately because we have had a lot of rain that I had to remove. As far as I can tell the pool is very very clean. I plan to look inside the filter later today but I doubt very much that I will find a problem. I was in there recently to add sand and all was well. Keep in mind that I have a CC=0.3 just a few weeks ago when I first bought the new k2006 test kit. Something happened since then but the water has looked clean and clear throughout that time period.

I had a mouse problem in the heater cabinet but can not imagine how that could affect the water. It does sy that there are mice at work in the area though.

Mike.
 

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