Skimmer/Drain Pad plumbing with winterization port

[Vexingly]

Hi.
Im just finishing up an inground pool, looking to plumb the pad. I'm trying to consider winterization process in the plumbing, and wanted to check if my idea was a good or bad idea.

In the attached pic, all 2" plumbing, I'd like to add a port to easily attach a blower for winterization. I've seen people using secondary pump lids with threaded ports, but this seems easier, since Its not built yet.

I understand this could introduce some turbulence, but if I maintain the 10" of straight pipe that the pump recommends prior to the inlet, would this be an issue? Any reason to NOT do this?
Appreciate the advice!

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Before we talk about your blower port let's talk about your plumbing design and hydraulics.

Three pipes in a trident configuration are not good for even flow from all three sources. Water follows the path of least resistance. Water from the middle feed will take the most flow, and you will have less water from the outside pipes. You will draw a lot of water from your Main Drain and have less flow from your skimmers. That is the opposite of what you want. The valves could let you adjust that some with choking down the flow on the Main Drain.

If you connect to the pump on one end and go down the line with Ts, you will get a more even flow. On the suction side, use sweeps rather than 90's; on returns, it doesn't matter.

It is best to make all your equipment pad plumbing and manifolds 2".

 

[Vexingly]

Thanks for the feedback. Unfortunately my vertical pipes are fixed with the arrangement shown, so if I'm understanding you correctly this is what I should do (also replace the 90's with sweep elbows)?
The pool is 20x44, and the deep end skimmer is the top one (Direct flow), if that helps)




If this is the correct way to do it, I will do so. Any additional feedback on the blower port config if I make the shown changes?

Thanks!

 

[ajw22]

Create a manifold like the one below.

I don't know how effective your blower post will be. But if it does not work well you can move to other methods.

 

[ajw22]

Unfortunately my vertical pipes are fixed with the arrangement shown,

Put the two-way diverters sitting vertically on the pipes. There is no reason to put sweeps between the vertical pipe and the diverters.

Then connect the diverters in a manifold with T's. Use a sweep or 90 at one end of the manifold and connect the pump to the other end.

 

[Vexingly]

If I put the diverters vertically, it would make the manifold exit higher than the pump inlet. I could drop the valves/diverters down below pad grade, or use sweeps to get back to the pump inlet height from the manifold. Not sure if one is better than the other.

I had always imagined a straight shot coming off vertical at pump inlet height. I can see how this is less restrictive so appreciate the feedback.

 

[Vexingly]

For reference, here is the pad Im working with. Not an ideal space. The 3 pipes for drain/skimmers on the left most here. The returns are off the the right in line with these vertical pipes

I dont have a lot of room to go off the left or right when creating a manifold. (The drain pipe has a ball valve creating a temporary air lock on the drain since it's hit freezing where I am, until I get the final piping installed)

I really appreciate the help and suggestions!

 

[ajw22]

Show me wider pictures of the entire pad, so I see how much elbow room you have.

As you replace pumps, the suction inlet will be a bit higher or lower, so you will adjust the intake piping anyway.

My thought is you sweep the inlet pipe from the manifold side left or right above the pad and then down to the inlet.

Let's get thoughts from @1poolman1 @wireform @Lake Placid

 

[Vexingly]

Here is another angle.

There is lots of room infront of the heater, and the pump can move towards the vertical pipes, or back to the heater as needed. Was likely going to align it with the multiport as best as possible.

Coming out of the heater, there is room for Salt system, flow switch and zinc anode. then diverter for return/deck jets near the vertical pipes. The pump is too long to flip it perpendicular to the house and maintain the 10" straight inlet.

Pipes in order left to right: Return (Splits underground), Deck Jets, Skimmer, Drain, Skimmer

 

[ajw22]

10" straight inlet into the pump is not a hard requirement. Many pumps have almost no straight pipe in and run fine. if you have 4-5 inches or more you will be good.

 

[ajw22]

Move your filter to the left and rotate it 90 degrees so the MPV is in front.

See if you can place the pump so the inlet pipe would just clear the light junction box conduits.

You should install a Heater Bypass - Further Reading

Zinc anode is worthless.

 

[ajw22]

Your RUDDD AVIA heater has a zinc anode. RUDD calls it the ProTek Shield.

 

[Vexingly]

Thanks for all the input. I rotated the filter and pump, and it just doesnt lay out well for the manifold without creating more complexity for the rest of the plumbing. It would add many more indirect paths between components, and even with the pump this way, it didnt really allow much room for the sweep as discussed above (Unless I raised the pump to be above the Light junction box)



I propose a new way. Hopefully this makes sense with the attached picture:
Create my manifold higher up that feeds the pump. I take it towards the left, GREEN 90 towards the pump, and then 2 YELLOW 45's with a vertical drop to get back to pump inlet level.
The PEACH line is the return from the heater to a diverter to returns/deck jets, but is lower, which allows room for the GREEN Elbow of the manifold (I could also do this the other direction to the right, but like the pipe not sticking out of the landscape curb for better protection from mower and people bumps) .
Thoughts?



Also, good call on the Heater Bypass. I had thought about it, but got trapped into thinking the internal bypass of the heater was enough. The link provided addressed that, and I will build a BYPASS. One more question about that:

Since the heater in/out are vertically aligned with the out below the in, can I mount the check valve rotated (so clear panel is on the side rather than that top). This would allow the best flow for the bypass, but allow serviceability of the check valve. Its depicted this way on the image from the linked page, but wanted to make sure that's OK to mount it this way. I am looking at the JANDY 7305: