Should I reconfigure all these pipes?

[gnr5]

Hello, just bought a house with a pool and spa and this is the configuration it has. I brought my own Pentair pump and automation and paid a plumber and electrician to hook it all up. They didn't reconfigure any of the pipes, it was a one to one replacement.









Questions:

1. Would it be better to leave just one pump, the newer VS Pentair?
2. Some pipes here are 1.5" others are 2" (don't quote me on the exact measure, but you know what I mean). Should I match all of them?


THANK YOU!

 

[Jimrahbe]

G,

Not sure I fully understand your problem, but having a mix of 1.5" and 2" plumbing will not cause any problems at all..

It is hard for me to follow your current plumbing as I can only see it from one angle.. Show us more pics from different angles...

I suspect you could reconfigure the lines so that you only had one pump, but the installer would have had to know that up front. It would be a lot more work than just installing the new VS pump.

Does the old black pump work? My guess is it only runs the Spa, is that true?

It looks like your Salt Cell is only feeding the Spa??? But then I can't really tell how things are plumbed.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[gnr5]

G,

Not sure I fully understand your problem, but having a mix of 1.5" and 2" plumbing will not cause any problems at all..

It is hard for me to follow your current plumbing as I can only see it from one angle.. Show us more pics from different angles...

I suspect you could reconfigure the lines so that you only had one pump, but the installer would have had to know that up front. It would be a lot more work than just installing the new VS pump.

Does the old black pump work? My guess is it only runs the Spa, is that true?

It looks like your Salt Cell is only feeding the Spa??? But then I can't really tell how things are plumbed.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Not sure if there is problem to fix at all, but the plumbing looks so cumbersome. The black pump works and is the spa pump, the SWG is only feeding the spa for some reason:

1. it would be better to put that after the heater right? so it feeds both the spa and pool?
2. The spa pump pumps the water to and it hits a couple of three ways. (a) sends it back to the spa, then (b) sends half to the heater, other half goes to (c) which goes back to the pool but also (c) is the filter output
3. Filter is doesn't go 100% to the heater, (c) breaks it into half going to the heater the other half goes straight into the pool.

 

[Jimrahbe]

G,

Wow, I now see what you mean.. While what you have may work, it makes no sense to have an EasyTouch and not be able to switch between the pool and spa modes.

I would reconfigure everything like this... https://images.inyopools.com/cloud/descriptionimages/jandy-schematic6.gif

This would eliminate the black pump.

Adding actuators to the Intake and Return valves would allow you to automatically switch between the pool and spa modes.

It would also relocate the SWCG so that it feeds the pool and the spa.

With the EasyTouch, you could if you want, shut off the constant spillover and just use the spillway mode.

What questions do you have??

Obviously, your equipment does not have to be in the same physical position as the diagram.. You just need to plumb it to have the same water flow paths.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[gnr5]

First off, thank you!

1. Can you elaborate more on the difference between "constant spillover and just use the spillway mode"?
2. My current pool (where i'm living now) doesn't have a spa, it only has a bubbler and I'm familiar with placing an actuator on the return to the bubbler to shut it off, however can you also tell me more on where I would place an actuator on the intake?

My goal is to get rid of the black pump, don't know how old it is, and it might not be electric efficient at all.

 

[Jimrahbe]

G,

Are the pics of your current pool, or are they of a pool/house that you are buying??

To keep a spillover spa chlorinated, you feed a little pool water into the spa all the time.. This of course increases the water in the spa until it overflows into the pool. To chlorinate the spa, this only needs to run for an hour or so a day... But, it would be a real pain to have to turn this valve on and off each day, so most people just let the spillover constantly run.

Since you have an EasyTouch, (I assume this is on the new pool), then you have an option to set up something called the Spillway mode.. This sucks water from the pool and sends it to the spa for whatever period of time you set up.. So, you could set it to automatically run an hour a day. This would allow you to shut off the constant spillover.

Constantly running the spillover will cause your pH to go up... This is not a requirement, if you love the spillover, you don't have to use the spillway mode.. The diagram I listed includes the makeup valve that causes the constant spillover to run.

The actuator locations are shown on the diagram. The Intake valve gets one.. This valve decides if the water is coming from the Pool or Spa .. And the Return valve gets one.. This valve decides if the water is going back to the Pool or Spa.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[gnr5]

Amazing, thanks Jim.

Yes all the pictures are from the house I'm moving into in a few weeks (lets call it house B, as in Bigger), I took the Easy Touch over there with my Pentair pump and SWG. And took all the old equipment and sent it to the previous house A. I actually finished building the pool on house A just about two three months ago, but life happens and we are moving into this new house that has an older pool.

 

[Jimrahbe]

G,

Is your EasyTouch actually a PSL4?? I ask because the "L" stands for lite as in the kind of salad dressing no one can eat..

A lite EasyTouch has no load center for all the circuit breakers. Does your cabinet have a large empty space below the relays??

It has a very limited set of functions and only 4 programs max..

Just something to keep in mind as you think about what you might want to program.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[gnr5]

Unfortunately it is the PSL4