Should I lower the high chlorine level and how?

Oakville Resident

Bronze Supporter
Nov 8, 2024
4
Ontario Canada
With the pool mesh cover on, and temperature dropping, should I lower the high chlorine level, and how?

My first time posting because I’ve not been able to find the solution to my problem searching the forum. But I'm grateful that I’ve been learning a lot from this site and thanks to tips posted, I was finally able to order FT100 from the US last year and still use it.

A week ago, when I took off the pool mesh cover for the guys that came to find and patch the leaks in the vinyl liner, I saw a green pool (murky water with a green tint).

On the day before, when I opened on corner of the cover and saw murky water in the shallow end, I had then put in 6 litre of liquid chlorine to raise the FC by 12 ppm. The FC was likely higher as it has been above maintenance target.

Three days later (with the mesh cover back on after the vinyl liner was patched) the FC reading was 14.5 ppm (14.5 ppm tested with FT 100, 13 ppm tested by the pool store). Since I wasn’t sure of my CYA reading (30 or 40?), I added 2 more litre of liquid chlorine to raise the SLAM level to 17 ppm.

Six days after raising the SLAM level, the FC reading is still high at 16 ppm, the CC remains 0. But the water has not cleared. Should I run the robot much longer than 4 hours a day?

More importantly, I am worried about having the FC level this high as the temperature drops – the water temperature is about 10 degrees Celsius (50 F), the air temperature is between 2 degrees (35 F) low and 9 degrees (48 F) high.

I worry because I think the three holes in the 12-year-old vinyl liner might have been caused by the high chlorine level in my pool in this past season when I deliberately added more liquid chlorine when I was away for 4 – 5 days at a time, as I’ve hardly used the pool.

Now I wonder about how to bring the chlorine level down. How much water do I have to add to a pool of about 65K litres (17K gallons) to dilute FC sufficiently? Or is it better to add chemicals to bring it down and which do I add and how?

The lines and filter have already been drained of water; the water level is below the skimmer, and 3 inches about the return jets.

Any insight you can provide is very much appreciated!

______________________________
Chronology of FC levels:
Sep 6 - Put mesh cover on while still running sand filter and pool robot daily and maintaining target FC level of 4-6 ppm or higher for CYA of 30. With the cover on, I took readings on a weekly basis.

Oct 6 - When I saw algae in the pool robot filter cartridge, I raise FC from 8 ppm to 12 ppm

Oct 13 - Stopped running the filter when I discovered that the water level has dropped more than usual and was only running the pool robot (to isolate the source of leak)

Oct 30 - When I saw murky water, I raised the FC by 12 ppm

Oct 31 - Pool vinyl liner leaks detected and patched

Nov 2 - FC still high at 14.5 ppm but I raised it by another 4 ppm to 17 ppm

Nov 8 - FC still high at 16 ppm but water has not cleared up while CC remains 0 since Nov 2
_____________________

Resident of Oakville, Ontario, Canada
IG vinyl pool of 65K litres (17K gallons)
Sand filter, Polaris P945 Robot
FC = 16
CC = 0
pH = 7.5 (before SLAM)
TA = 70
Calcium = 52 (pool store test)
CYA = 30
 
Welcome to TFP.

Your FC is fine for your CYA level. The FC will not damage your liner.

Close you pool and come back in the Spring.
 
Thanks for your quick response! That's a big relief!

I had started wondering if my test kit has expired since I received it in May of last year - does it last two years?

As well, I had always struggled with the CYA readings and assumed I hadn't put enough chlorine in the pool whenever the water turned cloudy. But this year, I see how adding more chlorine has bleached my liner and presumably weakened my liner for it to have leaks.

Anyway, it's a big relief to have you confirm that I can leave the pool closed at the SLAM (or a little higher than SLAM) level. Thank you!
 
If stored indoors at room temperatures out of the sun test kits reagents can last 2 years.

All liners get bleached. It is the nature of the printing dyes used now. You did not do anything wrong.

And chlorine does not weaken the liner if you are using CYA even if the chlorine is up to and above SLAM level.

Liner leaks happen.
 
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Mostly in case anyone is searching for ways to lower chlorine and comes across this thread (I agree, OP doesn't need to worry about it):

Hydrogen peroxide does it quite well! Much better than peeing in the pool to do it.

Just yesterday I was looking for info on lowering chlorine, as I hadn't adjusted my SWG down as water temps got lower, and I need to lower FC to do the Ascorbic Acid treatment to get rid of some iron staining.

Home Depot sells 1 gallon jugs of 12 percent hydrogen peroxide. It took my chlorine from 15ppm to about 3 very quickly. I won't try to post the formula for guessing how much you need, because I got it way off... I thought I was going to need 2 of those jugs, and then went and bought some quart bottles too.
 
Mostly in case anyone is searching for ways to lower chlorine and comes across this thread (I agree, OP doesn't need to worry about it):

Hydrogen peroxide does it quite well! Much better than peeing in the pool to do it.

Just yesterday I was looking for info on lowering chlorine, as I hadn't adjusted my SWG down as water temps got lower, and I need to lower FC to do the Ascorbic Acid treatment to get rid of some iron staining.

Home Depot sells 1 gallon jugs of 12 percent hydrogen peroxide. It took my chlorine from 15ppm to about 3 very quickly. I won't try to post the formula for guessing how much you need, because I got it way off... I thought I was going to need 2 of those jugs, and then went and bought some quart bottles too.
How to lower chlorine is discussed in Free Chlorine - Further Reading
 
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