Should I Hire A Leak Specialist

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P

Pharmacyman

0
LifeTime Supporter
Sep 9, 2007
59
High Point, N.C.
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair iChlor 30
Good Afternoon! I have a leak in my in-ground vinyl liner pool. I did the bucket test last summer and determined that I am losing one inch of water per week due to the leak. This number was confirmed when I removed the cover this week and found the water level 25 inches below where it was when I covered it. I am pretty sure at least some of the leak(s) are very deep and I doubt that I can repair them myself. The pool guy who fixed some of my leaks last year said that there were probably some around the drain. When I posted last year I was told that one inch/ week was acceptable and the cost of water loss would be less than having a leak detection company come out and repair the leaks. My question is how much water loss (inches per week) due to leak should one have before they contract with a leak detection/repair company? In other words, at what point (inches per week) would it be more cost-effective to hire a professional?
 
Me personally, if I had a leak, regardless of how small I may think it is, I'd want to know where the leak(s) are located and approximate size. Only then would I feel comfortable trying to decide if I can wait to have the leak(s) repaired or not. Fixing right away would be the most ideal route since water loss also leads to chemical loss, so you're adding to your workload. Some folks have an old liner and are simply trying to get another year or two out of them, so they deal with it - as long as the leak doesn't get worse or cause structural problems around your pool. That's another big concern to be aware of, so be careful about that as well - the ground around (and under) your pool.

Personally, I think if you suspect a leak, you should find it and repair it. Easy for me to say since it's not my money, but that really is the ideal route. Good luck!
Pool School - Leak Detection
 
1” per week is only slightly more than 1/8” per day (0.142” versus 0.125”). 1/8” to 1/4” per day can easily be accounted for by evaporative loss of water. A bucket test can be useful for leaks greater than 1/4” per day but that’s about it.

Leak detection companies have sophisticated tools for listening to pipes and looking at soil conductivity (both sound and electrical) but even 1/8” per day could be very costly to find and the results could easily be inconclusive.

How old is your liner? Do you expect to replace it soon? As others have previously said, it may be more cost effective to wait.
 
I checked the invoice and the liner is 9 and 1/2 years old. It looks in good shape though, other than the leak problem...if the liner is the problem and not the plumbing. I did the bucket test, so I'm pretty sure the 1 inch per week is due to leaking and not evaporation.
 
Ok. The leak rate seems awfully low to me but if you say it’s an 1” per week then that’s what it is.

Does the water stop leaking at some depth? Below the returns, below the light, etc? That would tell you where it is.

Is you signature correct and this pool has in-floor returns? Does it also have wall returns or just floor returns?
 
I believe it was still leaking when I removed the cover this week. The only things below the water level now is the liner itself, the main drain, and the Caretaker returns in the floor of the pool (15 of them, floor returns only). The light fixtures and skimmer are well above water level. I do not have any ladders or anything else attached to the liner.

Yes, it's 1" per week...but that is enough to aggravate the devil out of me. And as was posted earlier, last summer I experienced constantly having to adjust water condition (CYA, TA, PH, etc.) due to constantly having to add more water. In reference to my original question, when you calculate cost of doing nothing versus cost of repair I now see you must include the cost of more chemicals, time, aggravation, as well as water cost and possible water damage to pool or surrounding property.
 
another problem with leaks is that the water can dissolve the portland cement in your pool base- and you end up with large cavities within your pool bottom- causing you to have to remove the bottom of the pool and retroweling it with vermiculite (quite possibly the worst DIY project i have ever done)- so i second the suggestion that you should find your leak!
 
Pharm,

Get 3 bids from reputable pool leak detection companies. Hopefully some TFP'ers from the Winston-Salem area will make you some recommendations of reputable companies.

As suggested, the main thing you need is peace of mind. Also, since you have saltwater, NaCl is not too good for tree roots.

Make sure you read the contract very carefully and fully understand the scope of work.

Good luck and keep us posted - tstex
 
Since the leak stopped between the light and the floor, you can assume the leak is below the lights in the vinyl somewhere. Could be a very small pinhole or tear.

Are there any liner seams around? That would be the weakest link. Other than that, you’re going to be looking for a pinhole and that’s definitely going to require some sophisticated detection equipment to locate especially if there’s and hard deck around the pool.

Good luck and let us know what you come up with.
 
I contacted a professional about checking for my leaks. They want the pool filled and clean so that they can do what they do. I filled the pool, connected the plumbing, and started the pump yesterday. I noticed it took a long time to prime, but did prime.

I turned the pump off today to clean out the skimmer bucket. But when I turned the pump back on it would not prime at all. I checked the main drain cover to make sure it was clear, but still no prime. Need help on this please.
 

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No prime indicates a suction leak of some sort from the skimmer to the pump - Or ...... water in the pool is too low. Also check the skimmer's weir door flap to ensure it's not stuck up in the closed position. At the pump basket, make sure the O-ring isn't damaged and that is has silicone lube on it. Since you have a Caretaker system, perhaps see if you can bypass that floor system and restrict suction flow from one source for now (maybe skimmer only) just to ensure at least one line is clear and unrestricted.
 
Ask the leak detection companies what method(s) they used. I have had leaks before and found a company that uses an electric listening system. Sorta low tech, but worked great. I had 6 pin hole and scratches in my liner last year and the company was able to find them easily and then patch the holes. The company charged a flat fee for the service call ($250 I think) and $20 per patch. I was pleasently surprised both at the time (being relatively little) it took and overall cost.
 
I still have the prime problem. The water level is very good. I checked the weir door, working well. The pump o-ring was replaced last year and looks good. It was dry though, so I got some lube and used it on the gasket. I tried what you suggested, Texas Splash, and bypassed the Caretaker system and also tried switching from skimmer return to main drain return. Regardless of the return source used, still no prime.

I do notice one thing. With Caretaker bypassed the return water should come through two jets at the steps. When I am waiting for pump to prime I notice air bubbles coming up intermittently from one of the jets. But still no prime. What do you suggest next?
 
I don't like the sounds of air bubbles from the returns. If you have ruled out everything above ground, the only thing remaining is the line underground at which point the company you hire would be inspecting those. Above ground, not sure if I mentioned it earlier .... but any 3-way valves or check valves should be inspected as well. The 3-ways have small O-Rings at the stem of the handle and I believe around the perimeter as well. Also check the pump basket drain plug(s) and their small O-rings as well. Now's the time to be "extra picky" in an effort to find a simple DIY repair versus leaving it all in the hands of the leak detection company.
 
I'll check those. Is there any chance it could be the pump itself?
Season before last the pump was leaking and I determined the leak was on the bottom between the motor and the impeller. So that winter I replaced the seal. Did fine for about a month last spring then started leaking again. Haven't had the pump running enough this season to see, but assume it still has a leak.
 
I wanted to follow up and say, "Thank you" to everyone who posted. I hired a leak specialist last month. He told me he uses an electric type search technology initially. He found 4 tiny holes in the liner in the deep end and two in the shallow. He also found that the liner was leaking at a light fixture. The detection and repairs were completed for a flat rate fee, $385. That is significant money for me but will pay for itself in chemicals, salt, and water in less than two years. Afterward I did a bucket test for a week before the rains came and found no loss of water due to leak! I know I am nearing the end of life of my liner, but I may get another year or two out of it because of this service.
 
I think $385 for finding the leaks and patching all those holes is reasonable. And since it has stopped the water leaks for now, you should find managing the water easier (and less costly). An impending liner replacement is certainly no fun to contemplate but at least you can start saving for it now ...
 

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