Should I be concerned about this leak?

[jlamb5990]

Just noticed this small drip in my plumbing. It’s very slow (the picture below is the water accumulation after running the pump from 8am-6pm). It only drips when the pump is on high speed (above 2500rpm). Majority of the day it’s running at 1600rpm, but lately I’ve had it higher to get the redneck evaporative cooler in the air higher).

I’m estimating if the pump ran high speed all day, it’s about 1-2 cups total for the day

Should I be concerned and is it worth cutting and replumbing? It seems like the leak is on that 90* elbow which would not be the easiest to tackle.

 

[ajw22]

I don’t see any purple primer telltale on one of the joints. It looks like it is not well glued at the joint where it is leaking.

 

[jlamb5990]

I don’t see any purple primer telltale on one of the joints. It looks like it is not well glued at the joint where it is leaking.

To be honest, it’s my own handy work. I added a salt cell in on my own and had to do some replumbing. I used primer on all the joints but I guess not enough. Think it’s something that needs immediate attention?

 

[ajw22]

Immediate no, eventually yes. I don’t know how loose that joint is and if it will burst open and dump out all your pool water.

Be generous with the primer and paint it purple.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

With the pump off, do you hear air hissing (being sucked into the plumbing) near the joint?

 

[JamesW]

Looks like you maybe forgot the glue on at least one joint.

Undo the salt cell union and see if the joint easily pulls loose.

 

[jlamb5990]

With the pump off, do you hear air hissing (being sucked into the plumbing) near the joint?

Nope. Everything is quiet. Even with the pump on high, it’s barely a drop every few minutes

 

[jlamb5990]

Looks like you maybe forgot the glue on at least one joint.

Undo the salt cell union and see if the joint easily pulls loose.

I may give that a test tomorrow. It’s possible I forgot the primer on that joint and just did the clear pvc glue. Would it still come loose with only glue?

 

[jlamb5990]

Immediate no, eventually yes. I don’t know how loose that joint is and if it will burst open and dump out all your pool water.

Be generous with the primer and paint it purple.

That’s my biggest fear right now. I don’t even know how I would redo this without adding couplings or buying new unions and starting over. Any advice?

 

[PoolGate]

Just FYI: liberally coat the MALE end of the connection with PVC cement. Then put a light coat on the female end. Then put more on the male end. Then connect the two ends twisting a bit while seating and hold until it stops moving.

 

[jlamb5990]

Just FYI: liberally coat the MALE end of the connection with PVC cement. Then put a light coat on the female end. Then put more on the male end. Then connect the two ends twisting a bit while seating and hold until it stops moving.

Ya I think I may have skipped the purple primer on that joint and just did the clear cement

 

[PoolGate]

If you are using the clear PVC cement it's rated up to 2" for pressure installations. That plumbing is probably 2". I suggest moving up to the grey PVC medium glue that's rated for 6" plumbing. Same brand, same location at big box store.

 

[jlamb5990]

If you are using the clear PVC cement it's rated up to 2" for pressure installations. That plumbing is probably 2". I suggest moving up to the grey PVC medium glue that's rated for 6" plumbing. Same brand, same location at big box store.

Thanks. When I do finally decide to tackle this, I’ll get the grey stuff

 

[1poolman1]

Its always better to use a "blue" glue for pools. They have more PVC solids in them. Cost more? Yes, but I never have to go back. The only time I've ever gone back on a repair/install that leaked was when I missed gluing a joint. Twice in my career. Love blue glue. It will even work if the pipes are damp if it says it on the label.

If you decide to use grey, you really should let it set for 24hrs before using the equipment. It will work, just takes time. Grey was designed for PVC electrical conduit and not pressure applications. Electrical inspectors look for it.

 

[jlamb5990]

Its always better to use a "blue" glue for pools. They have more PVC solids in them. Cost more? Yes, but I never have to go back. The only time I've ever gone back on a repair/install that leaked was when I missed gluing a joint. Twice in my career. Love blue glue. It will even work if the pipes are damp if it says it on the label.

If you decide to use grey, you really should let it set for 24hrs before using the equipment. It will work, just takes time. Grey was designed for PVC electrical conduit and not pressure applications. Electrical inspectors look for it.

Do you think I’m in imminent danger here or can this be monitored and wait until the season is over?

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Pressure side leaks will generally cause the plumbing to drain when the pump is shut down. After being off for a few hours, when you first start the pump, do you hear lots of air being purged from the system? Do you see bubbles leaving the returns when you first start the pump? If not, be 100% sure that the source of the water is coming from the plumbing and not somewhere else.

Yesterday, I had an air leak from a bad o-ring in air bleeder valve on the filter. I came out in the AM and noticed the pump basket was empty. When the pump started, the pump primed and purged all air from the system. If you're not losing water when the pump is off, there's probably no exigency in repairing the leak immediately.

 

[ajw22]

Do you think I’m in imminent danger here or can this be monitored and wait until the season is over?

I would not wait that long.

You can end up with a bigger problem if that joint lets go.

 

[jlamb5990]

Pressure side leaks will generally cause the plumbing to drain when the pump is shut down. After being off for a few hours, when you first start the pump, do you hear lots of air being purged from the system? Do you see bubbles leaving the returns when you first start the pump? If not, be 100% sure that the source of the water is coming from the plumbing and not somewhere else.

Yesterday, I had an air leak from a bad o-ring in air bleeder valve on the filter. I came out in the AM and noticed the pump basket was empty. When the pump started, the pump primed and purged all air from the system. If you're not losing water when the pump is off, there's probably no exigency in repairing the leak immediately.

Yea I don’t hear any hissing and when I start the pump there’s no air from the returns and no rattling in the pipes. It all seems pretty full and no issues priming at all. Pump basket is full. I honestly don’t think it even leaks when the pump is off or even at lower speeds. It starts dripping, and I mean barelyyyyy dripping when I hit 2500rpms

 

[jlamb5990]

I would not wait that long.

You can end up with a bigger problem if that joint lets go.

Any suggestions on how to tackle the replumbing? I’m assuming I’m going to need some couplings? My idea was to cut at the red lines in this picture, add couplings, and basically do the same thing again, but with better glueing

 

[ajw22]

First see if you can just pull apart the badly glued joint and reglue it. It may be easy.

Otherwise what you showed with couples may be the best fix.