Severely Bent Aluminum Coping

May 7, 2018
2
Monticello NY
Hello! I'm so happy to join the group.

We bought a house with an '80s style pool with a year-old liner last April. We got a good summer of swimming after getting it cleared a swamp when the pool company just poured what was sitting in the solid cover right into the pool, but I digress.

THIS year -- I go to drain the rest of the water off the cover in the spring and see that the pool ladder flange is broken and not level with the 6" aluminum coping that it's bolted to. I haven't figured out of if this is the fault of the closing company as I don't think the weight of the water would pull the cover that hard that it would bend the aluminum so much but I'm not an expert. The coping has the liner track built-in and is screwed into a 2x6 piece of pressure treated wood which is itself bolted to the cinderblock walls. I'm hoping we can right the bolt that holds the flange so we can put the ladder in this year but if that's a dead end I'm wondering how difficult you all think it would be to remove the wood and coping to put a more modern edge (I'm ok with aluminum bullnose with poured concrete but if the budget allows I would do stone.) The surround is currently bluestone that really needs to be leveled anyway. Do we need to drain the water? Or, because the coping is already in segments that are only screwed into wood could we do it one side at a time?

I know this is long and sort of confusing but am I correct in thinking that the lack of poured concrete surround is a saving grace? We've talked about doing a pool renovation at next liner change but didn't expect a broken ladder flange including bent coping to happen the second year we've had it with only a two year-old liner. I'd also like to add a light which means I'd need to do it before pouring concrete. Such a conundrum. I'll post a photo of the bent flange when I get home.
 
Given that liner is only 1-2 years old, you should be able to drain water to about 4" left in shallow end (to prevent the need to reset liner) and replace coping one section at a time. Best aluminum style coping I have seen with poured concrete patio is Vastek or Imperial Progressive. If you live in an area with snow / freezing temps, the 2" cardinal bullnose can get water between coping and concrete, freeze, then separate. If doing stone, use a top mount extrusion coping. Just make sure mason knows to install anchor sockets for ladder / handrail (concrete pad or sonotubes).

The light is more difficult with a cinder block wall. Need to pull liner back enough to gain access, chip out concrete and install niche / conduit. All without leaving debris behind liner. Definitely a difficult task.
 
Thank you so much!

I’ve since learned that the flange bolt is basically rusted to half its original diameter just below the nut. Not good! Will ask opening company what they think for this season and I’ll go from there. Don’t really want to do the new coping and deck this summer (even just wait until the fall)

Regarding Light:

that’s disappointing to hear but what do you think about using an unnecessary (for me) dedicated suction port for a nicheless light? I mean using the existing hole and pipe to run a conduit through? It’s just below where a light would traditionally be placed and don’t mind using the skimmer port for vacuuming when I need to as I am going to buy a robot cleaner with its own power.

Thanks for your help!
 
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