Hey guys. Been running a tight ship here and things have been great. Yesterday I noticed water seemed like it was getting a titch cloudy, checked FC last evening and it was down to 2.8, from about 4.6 where it usually hovers. I thought it was from all the swimming and hot weather from the weekend, so I turned up output dial on the generator to about 70% and ran pump all night. This morning water still looked cloudy and FC was 0.5! I checked everything out and the generator seemed like it was functioning. Generating green light was on, not flashing. My equipment is plugged into a GFCI outlet and just to try and troubleshoot I hit reset and heard something “kick in” and then the “no flow” light started flashing for a few min then went green again. I waited a few min, cranked up the output, then took a sample coming out of the jets, FC was high. So whatever happened the outlet for the generator seems to have flipped on and off, there was power to the generator, but it wasn’t generating until I reset it. I set the generator to “super chlorinate” and plan to run it all day and eve like that. Just wondering if there’s anything else I need to do. Looks like everything else is in range. I’ll have to keep an eye on the outlet going forward. That hasn’t happened before. Very weird.
Set back with chlorine levels
- Thread starter Toad_stools
- Start date
Hey Toad !! Check your salt content. My IC60 ran a self check every 12 hours and if it got a low reading it didn’t produce or try again until the next self check.
It’s possible it was a false reading and everything is ok.
Or you need some salt.
Or you have the start of an algae bloom and it’s sitting on the verge of where you can’t see it, but the testing is telling you it’s there. Perform an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test anytime you question *anything* like this. It’s better to know that it’s not algae while you figure out everything else.
What’s the CYA ? You said ‘in range’ but it may need a small bump of it isn’t holding FC and it isn’t an algae issue.
It’s possible it was a false reading and everything is ok.
Or you need some salt.
Or you have the start of an algae bloom and it’s sitting on the verge of where you can’t see it, but the testing is telling you it’s there. Perform an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test anytime you question *anything* like this. It’s better to know that it’s not algae while you figure out everything else.
What’s the CYA ? You said ‘in range’ but it may need a small bump of it isn’t holding FC and it isn’t an algae issue.
Thanks. CYA is at 70 right now and salt is 1600 ppm. It’s a low salt generator and the optimal range for it is between 1200 and 1800. I am pretty sure that when the GFCI popped it somehow made the generator stop producing chlorine. I don’t think there’s any algae but was very cloudy this AM. I’m going to take a FC reading in a couple hours. Thanks.
Ok so everything seems good. Overnight Chlorine Loss Test you wonder just because. You never want Algae to get the upper hand. 
If it is proven not to be algae, it could easily be pollen clouding you up and it will take lots of filter time to clear it. But. You’ll sleep like a baby knowing that’s all it is while it takes it’s time to clear.
If it is proven not to be algae, it could easily be pollen clouding you up and it will take lots of filter time to clear it. But. You’ll sleep like a baby knowing that’s all it is while it takes it’s time to clear.
It’s been a really bad year here with pollen so I’m hoping this will clear quickly. I’m concerned though that if the GFCI keeps popping and the generator stops producing chlorine there doesn’t seem to be a way to easily test this. It’s weird that the green generating light was still solid but it clearly was not producing any chlorine.Ok so everything seems good. Overnight Chlorine Loss Test you wonder just because. You never want Algae to get the upper hand.
If it is proven not to be algae, it could easily be pollen clouding you up and it will take lots of filter time to clear it. But. You’ll sleep like a baby knowing that’s all it is while it takes it’s time to clear.
Everything doesn’t seem good now. I’ve had it set to super chlorinate for the last 4 hours but even when I test FC coming out of the jet the FC reading is about 0.5. Water is cloudy as heck. The cell is only 10 months old and in use 4 months out of those 10. Should I clean it? I’ve never had it apart before and am a little anxious about removing it. Could it be a faulty cell I wonder.Ok so everything seems good. Overnight Chlorine Loss Test you wonder just because. You never want Algae to get the upper hand.
If it is proven not to be algae, it could easily be pollen clouding you up and it will take lots of filter time to clear it. But. You’ll sleep like a baby knowing that’s all it is while it takes it’s time to clear.
- Feb 6, 2015
- 6,337
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Post a full set of current test results from one of the recommemded testkits.
Use the FC/CYA Levels to bring your FC up to the top ofthe target range using liquid chlorine.
All super chlorinate does is run the SWG at 100% for 24 hours - and only while the pump is running. SWG are great for maintaining an FC level (given there isn't algae or other nasties present), but they aren't good at raisingtheFC level fast. Use liquid chlorine to dose to attain the top of thetarget range based on the FC/CYA Levels .
Suggest you use PoolMath and share your logs here.
Also, fill out your signature with your pool and pool equioment specs - including testkit. List model numbers for your equipment.
Use the FC/CYA Levels to bring your FC up to the top ofthe target range using liquid chlorine.
All super chlorinate does is run the SWG at 100% for 24 hours - and only while the pump is running. SWG are great for maintaining an FC level (given there isn't algae or other nasties present), but they aren't good at raisingtheFC level fast. Use liquid chlorine to dose to attain the top of thetarget range based on the FC/CYA Levels .
Suggest you use PoolMath and share your logs here.
Also, fill out your signature with your pool and pool equioment specs - including testkit. List model numbers for your equipment.
Last edited:
That’s why you OCLT. Prove there is no algae and you can manually dose daily for as long as you need to figure out the rest. The SWG may or may not be working to its ability. The sun may or may not be burning up your FC. Take the SWG (turn off for the night) and the sun out of the equation to see if the cloudy water is algae, or a filtering problem (most likely pollen).
Statistically speaking probably not.
Super simple to do. There is a big plastic nut on either end. You can use a strap wrench or giant pliers if it’s beyond hand tight and it’ll pop right out. 4 months of use is close enough for your ‘mid season’ check. It’s there is any build up (white, salt lookin gunk), gently knock out whatever you can with a popsicle stick. Then give it a 50/50 MA bath and it will bubble/fizz. Stop the minute it stops fizzing, rinse it really well and reinstall it. The key is to not overtighten. Get it good and snug by hand and if there are and small drips, tighten just a bit more with pliers/ strap wrench.
Thanks for the tips. Will try the OCLT tonight but I’ll try removing the cell and have a peek at it. Whatever has happened it went south really fast. Levels were perfect Saturday evening. Sunday water started looking a bit off. Sunday eve FC had dropped from 4.6 to 2. I turned up output but this morning FC now 0 to 0.5 and not going up. Levels are all still excellent except FC. Even CC is at 0. pH is 7.5.
I will report back.
One more question. If I end up having to slam this pool how much liquid chlorine do I need to buy? I’ve never purchased it before. Or is bleach better/easier? Does it matter? Pool is 15,000 gallons. Thanks.
A 70 CYA should be more than enough as far north as you are. Your SWG should be able to overcome your lower UV up there, albeit slowly. It could be an algae outbreak, or the SWG scaled up / turned off allowing an algae outbreak and now you’re spinning your wheels trying to keep up.
One things for sure, you’ve been under minimum for much longer than any of us would like so you very well may have new problems.
Is the SWG on a GFCI outlet by itself, or tied into the pump breaker ?
One things for sure, you’ve been under minimum for much longer than any of us would like so you very well may have new problems.
Is the SWG on a GFCI outlet by itself, or tied into the pump breaker ?
Ooooof. Hard to guess. 10 gallons to start and get a grip on where you can easily get more of need be.
Bleach, chlorine and liquid pool shock are all the same Sodium Hyperchlorite. Check the bottle for that and the strength. Ideally you want 10% or 12% but if all you can find is 6%, you’ll need double.
Ok thanks for the tips. There’s no FC at all reading on my tests even taking a sample straight out of the jet. The generator is not tied in to the same breaker as the pump which on its own switch. So the pump is running along just fine. Just no chlorine being produced. I’m going to try and remove the cell in the next hour.
The Hayward panel didn’t give any error signals like there was a cell problem though. This is frustrating.
- Nov 7, 2018
- 1,049
- Pool Size
- 14000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Out of curiosity, can you see little bubbles coming from your returns? Also, can you see the "cloudy water" exiting the cell (the clear part in the cell). If so, it is generating. If you don't see it, then it's not generating.
Ok so it’s on and simply not producing. Crack that bad boy open and see when you get a minute. It’s literally a minute to get it off and another to put it back. Cleaning could take a half hour but you’ll know right away if it’s gummed up. You could always put it back until you had the time to clean it. It’s not any worse than waiting to check it.
I don’t see much in the way of little bubbles coming out of the returns. Hard to say really cause the water is so turbulent coming out of there anyway. As far as being able to see in the cell, I can’t see into it. It’s solid.
- Nov 7, 2018
- 1,049
- Pool Size
- 14000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Ah, solid cell...gotcha. In that case I second the recommendation to pull off the cell and clean it.
Thanks. That’s my plan later today. Unfortunately the way the pool company put everything together it’s lying directly on the paving stone and I can’t get my hands around it to loosen it. I have to buy a strap wrench first but unfortunately here in Ontario were still lockdown until Friday so I can’t just walk into a store. Argh! Thanks for the help though.
If you’re buying one, get the large channel lock pliers instead for about $25. Strap wrenches are ok in a pinch but slip and you’ll loose knuckle skin on the patio/bricks. Buy the comically large pliers but word of caution to squeeze and turn gently. They can lay a lot of force down.
I got the cell off. It was clean. I soaked it in acid anyway just to be sure. I’ve started the slam process and getting my FC up to 24 using bleach.
if it’s a cell problem then I guess I’ll know in a few days.
one thing I’m learning the hard way is that even with a salt water pool you can’t take things for granted.
We stated getting really hot weather here on Friday. Was up to 32 degrees C Fri and Sat and Sun. Crazy sun too. I also gave the kids haircuts and when they were done I let them jump in to the pool to rinse off. There was also just a lot of swimming going on this weekend and I didn’t really take proactive measures and up the output on the SWG until I noticed the FC falling on Sunday. So perhaps by then things were in motion. Anyway, learning more as I go here. Hopefully this SLAM will do it and I can keep the FC back up and stable with the SWG. Been reading some other stuff online where lots of folks with SWGs are shocking once every week or two weeks. I don’t think it’s prob necessary that much but I guess I didn’t realize that “shocking” was something you even had to think about with a SWG.
if it’s a cell problem then I guess I’ll know in a few days.
one thing I’m learning the hard way is that even with a salt water pool you can’t take things for granted.
We stated getting really hot weather here on Friday. Was up to 32 degrees C Fri and Sat and Sun. Crazy sun too. I also gave the kids haircuts and when they were done I let them jump in to the pool to rinse off. There was also just a lot of swimming going on this weekend and I didn’t really take proactive measures and up the output on the SWG until I noticed the FC falling on Sunday. So perhaps by then things were in motion. Anyway, learning more as I go here. Hopefully this SLAM will do it and I can keep the FC back up and stable with the SWG. Been reading some other stuff online where lots of folks with SWGs are shocking once every week or two weeks. I don’t think it’s prob necessary that much but I guess I didn’t realize that “shocking” was something you even had to think about with a SWG.