Second Week Ever Testing - Next Steps?

[baundy]

Second week of testing and this is where everything stands (using TF-Pro Salt testing kit):

pH - 7.8
Salt - 3400
FC - 7.5 (chlorine has been high because I added liquid chlorine last week upon the recommendation of the pool store because we were absolutely inundated with rain and he wanted to make sure we didn't get an algae bloom)
CC - 0
TC - 7.5
Calcium - 100
TA - 100
CYA - 55

The Pool Math app is recommending:

1. To lower my TA, reduce the pH to 7.0 to 7.2 with acid and then aerate to increase pH. Is this muriatic acid? If so, how much? Aerate just by turning up my pump?

2. For Calcium, add 42 lbs of Calcium Chloride or 56 lbs of Calcium Chloride Dihydrate to get in the target range.
-Side note, the guy at the pool store said not to worry too much about Calcium right now because we have a fiberglass pool. He recommended getting the other levels set first before worrying about Calcium.

3. To increase CYA, add 2 lbs 3 oz. of Dry Stabilizer or 2 quarts and 3 cups of Liquid Stabilizer.

4. Add 22 lbs of Salt to come up to my target of 3600ppm.

Because my Chlorine is still high, I have had my SWCG on the lowest level (2%) for awhile now. Once the Chlorine gets down to around 3ppm or 4ppm (I think that is where I want to be), what should the SWCG be set to? Pool is approximately 13,090 gallons.

I appreciate everyone's help! Thank you!

 

[YippeeSkippy]

1. To lower my TA, reduce the pH to 7.0 to 7.2 with acid and then aerate to increase pH. Is this muriatic acid? If so, how much? Aerate just by turning up my pump?
7.8 is acceptable but if it is rising too quickly, you can then deal with the TA. You'll only want to use Muriatic Acid because Dry Acid is harmful to Salt Systems and plaster.

2. For Calcium, add 42 lbs of Calcium Chloride or 56 lbs of Calcium Chloride Dihydrate to get in the target range.
-Side note, the guy at the pool store said not to worry too much about Calcium right now because we have a fiberglass pool. He recommended getting the other levels set first before worrying about Calcium.
We like about 200ppm of calcium because *some* fiberglass pools have calcium in the shell, others not. So we're playing it safe. If your fill water is high naturally (which you should test to check) natural evaporation leaves salt and calcium behind so it will raise without intervention.

3. To increase CYA, add 2 lbs 3 oz. of Dry Stabilizer or 2 quarts and 3 cups of Liquid Stabilizer.
If you're reading your cya test as between 50 and 60, always read it as the higher number. So consider, and dose as if you have 60 now. Also that is your basis for chlorine level requirements.

4. Add 22 lbs of Salt to come up to my target of 3600ppm.
What range of salt does your SWG need, per manual? Go a bit less then the middle ground and see how your cell does.

FC/CYA Levels

Maddie

 

[dfwnoob]

Why are you under the impression that 7.5 FC is "high"? With a "55" (actually 60) CYA, the FC should range between 4-9, with 3 at an absolute minumum. Hovering around 4 is a bad idea at that CYA level. Be sure to read the TFP article on the Chlorine/CYA Relationship.

 

[Newdude]

Nice job laying it all out.

Please go into your profile setting and complete your signature. List all relevant details and equipment model #s. Help us help you.

1. To lower my TA, reduce the pH to 7.0 to 7.2 with acid and then aerate to increase pH. Is this muriatic acid? If so, how much? Aerate just by turning up my pump?

Yes Muriatic acid, details per PoolMath.

But.

A 100 TA will come down on its own while you manage a PH in the 7s.

For Calcium, add 42 lbs of Calcium Chloride or 56 lbs of Calcium Chloride Dihydrate to get in the target range.
-Side note, the guy at the pool store said not to worry too much about Calcium right now because we have a fiberglass pool. He recommended getting the other levels set first before worrying about Calcium.

Modern fiberglass doesn't need calcium.

Waterline tile grout does need calcium.

Gas heaters don't *need* calcium but the manufacturer says so, so most add the 200 they want just to retain the warranty.

Again, your signature would have helped here becuause i wouldn't have to ask.

(It's OK. You're new.)

3. To increase CYA, add 2 lbs 3 oz. of Dry Stabilizer or 2 quarts and 3 cups of Liquid Stabilizer.

CYA always rounds up. So count it as 60. As such, only fill to the 10s and it's much easier to test.

It's a salt pool ? (Signagure )

Use granual CYA. Amazon has Puritech for $2 a lb in bigger bags. HD/ Lowes/ Walmart has 4 or 5 lb bags in the pool aisle. Make sure it says 100% CYA.

Hang it in a sock, carrot on a stick like, in front of a working return. Some time later, or even tomorrow it will squish right out. It should register on the test the next day after it's dispersed. Go easy until you know how your pool responds. It's easy to overshoot.


Also, never raise CYA more than 10 without an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. This is super important here. Note this. *******

4. Add 22 lbs of Salt to come up to my target of 3600ppm.

Ahhhhhh. You did say salt pool. Ok. I take the last signature joke back.

Test first. Add 75% from your baseline to target. Dump it in the shallow end and sweep a bit every half hour until it's gone. Don't go crazy. It'll dissolve on its own.

 

[kul]

Just here to say welcome and you’re doing great so far. Getting the hang of testing takes few times, but it definitely gets easier. Same with knowing how much of everything to add.

 

[baundy]

My SWG is a Pentair Intellichlor IC20. This is what it has for "Optimum Pool Water Chemistry Conditions for Salt Water Pools":

Free Chlorine - 2.0 - 4.0 ppm
Combined Chlorine - None
pH - 7.2 - 7.8
CYA - 30 - 50 ppm
TA - 80 - 120 ppm
Calcium - 200 - 400 ppm
Salt - 3600 - 4500 ppm (ideal 3600 ppm)

 

[Newdude]

My SWG is a Pentair Intellichlor IC20. This is what it has for "Optimum Pool Water Chemistry Conditions for Salt Water Pools":

This is what it has on it.



Put acid in your cell, every 3 months, whether it needs it or not.

There's your proof they don't even know what they don't even know. Or they do know, and want to sell you more cells because they ruined this one.

Scrub any recs from them or the industry. Come ask and we'll dial you in.

 

[baundy]

Why are you under the impression that 7.5 FC is "high"?

My SWG Manual recommends 2.0 to 4.0 ppm and a CYA of 30 - 50 ppm. So they are both high according to the Manual.

Also, I'm new.

 

[Newdude]

As your CYA increases, the FC must increase proportionately to match, to sanitize at the same level. All lines on this chart are equal for sanitizing .




Please read :
FC/CYA Levels

 

[baundy]

Thanks to everyone for the help. Signature has been updated and completed the rest of the items for setting up my account.

So, where does that leave me, haha? Don't trust the SWG Manual it sounds like. Chlorine and CYA are fine for right now. So I'm just adding some salt to bring that up to the 3600ppm target?

 

[kul]

Don’t add more salt unless your SWG is indicating low salt. I believe you mentioned you’re at 3400? That’s enough for my SWG IC-60 to produce.

 

[Newdude]

+1. 3000 to 3200 is enough for ICXXs. 3400 is wiggle room for the spring showers to dilute it a little with overflow.

 

[kul]

That’s a good point @Newdude I’m at 3000 right now and it’s working fine.

 

[dfwnoob]

So, where does that leave me, haha? Don't trust the SWG Manual it sounds like.

You got it! Let us worry about the water chemistry. Let Pentair find new and interesting ways to sell you new expensive parts.

Also, I'm new.

It's all good, there was a lot of brevity in my response, not any attitude, but I see now it probably came off like that. Apologies about that.

 

[baundy]

Don’t add more salt unless your SWG is indicating low salt. I believe you mentioned you’re at 3400? That’s enough for my SWG IC-60 to produce.

My testing kit showed 3400 ppm (assuming that I'm doing it correctly, haha). The SWG does have the Red light on indicating that the salt level is low.

 

[baundy]

Don’t add more salt unless your SWG is indicating low salt. I believe you mentioned you’re at 3400? That’s enough for my SWG IC-60 to produce.

What production rate (not sure if that's the right term) should my SWG be on? Right now it's only at 2% because my chlorine had been high (much higher than the 7.5ppm it's at currently).

 

[kul]

what is the temperature of your water? Sometimes that can trigger the low salt light even though the salt level is perfectly fine

 

[baundy]

You got it! Let us worry about the water chemistry. Let Pentair find new and interesting ways to sell you new expensive parts.



It's all good, there was a lot of brevity in my response, not any attitude, but I see now it probably came off like that. Apologies about that.

No worries! I appreciate all of the help and feedback!

 

[baundy]

what is the temperature of your water? Sometimes that can trigger the low salt light even though the salt level is perfectly fine

The temperature was at 78 degrees when I was out there a few minutes ago and the low salt light was on.