Thanks, Stuart. Bookmarked for ordering next week. Their prices are a bit better than Amazon.Stuamurr said:Get the TF100 from this website http://tftestkits.net/splash-page.html
The above also stocks the Taylor kits.
Regards
Stuart
Thanks, Stuart. Bookmarked for ordering next week. Their prices are a bit better than Amazon.Stuamurr said:Get the TF100 from this website http://tftestkits.net/splash-page.html
The above also stocks the Taylor kits.
Regards
Stuart
SebringDon said:Finally I can run the filter for extended periods of time. The old cartridge was basically shot; I could clean it down to about 15 pounds of pressure, and within 15 mins it was up to 30. With the brand new cart, I'm down to about 12 pounds at startup and it's been 20 minutes with no increase in pressure yet. I'm hopeful I'll get an hour or more between cleanings now, even with all the dead algae to be cleaned out. I also found that even without a cartridge in place, keeping the system running helps keep the chlorine circulating. I'm going to run 24/7 whether I have a cart in or not while I'm doing this cleanup.
No rips or tears, but it's definitely filthy, and no amount of water pressure will take it all off. I've got some Aqua Chem filter cleaner, but spray on and wait then rinse off didn't do a lot. I'll read the directions for soaking and give that a shot, and let it soak a long time. I noticed it took a long time to rinse most of the cleaner off before I put it back in the filter. I didn't want to put it back in the filter while I was still getting suds.UnderWaterVanya said:??? I would think a shot cartridge would have low pressure - failing to catch things - sounds like this one needs a good soak in a cleaner.
Me too. I've been reading up on black algae, and it looks like I'll need a wire brush of some sort to clean it up. Do I get one of those at the pool store?UnderWaterVanya said:I hope that isn't black algae...
Typically we like folks to use CYA by itself but I would use about 1.5 lbs of this if it was my pool. (Pre mixed in a bucket of water and then distributed in front of a return) the net effect would be to raise FC to about 8 and raise your CYA by about 5 at the same time. Check the FC again in an hour or two - if it falls back down close to zero do it again. After doing it twice I would check your CYA again - if you get to 20 or higher stop adding this. This is the MSDS for that product: http://www.kellysolutions.com/erenewals ... _11_AM.pdf The trade secret parts could be an issue but I doubt it - at least they don't list copper!SebringDon said:CL 0
CYA < 20
Edit: My wife bought some aquachem OPTIMUM chlorinating granules. 72% trichlor, 8% boron sodium oxide, 20% other (clarifier, filtration enhancer, sunlight protector). Should I use some of that instead of liquid chlorine to help with other numbers, or would it do more harm than good?
pH is fine and will go up over time.SebringDon said:pH 7.2
TA 80
CH 350
Typically you want to get that CYA up to a minimum of 20 - without it the sun will cook it very quickly. You also want to keep it as low as is practical while shocking - so as indicated above I'd add some CYA either with dichlor, trichlor or CYA. I'd target adding about 10ppm first and rechecking and then adding another 5ppm if you're still below 20.SebringDon said:Should I use 10 as my target for the shock process? That's the minimum listed on the chlorine/CYA chart at Pool School, but I think that's high since I could see the dot clearly at the 20 CYA mark, so there's very little if any CYA. I'm thinking 10 is too much, but have no idea what number to use. Anybody?
The PC goal value is something you can override. When I checked 250-350 is fine for plaster/gunnite so you should be OK as indicated above.SebringDon said:PC is telling me to replace some water to get down to 300 CH. Is that critical or is 350 ok for now?
Great minds think (almost) alike. I put 5 points of CYA in a sock and added chlorine liquid worth 8 ppm. I'll check first thing in the morning and use your "OPTIMUM in a bucket" method if it's warranted. I thought CYA took a week to show up on the test, but that never made sense to me.UnderWaterVanya said:Typically we like folks to use CYA by itself but I would use about 1.5 lbs of this if it was my pool.SebringDon said:Edit: My wife bought some aquachem OPTIMUM chlorinating granules.
Yeah, I've been going through chlorine at a terrific rate. I figured my CYA was way low, but until my test kit arrived I couldn't be sure. I'll work hard on the CYA and then nail 10 on the board as my shock level until I pass the tests. I guess I should continue to keep my dog out of the pool until I've got the CYA up and the shock treatment over. It's driving him crazy; he's a water baby and knows that's a pool, He simply can't understand why daddy won't let him use it. :lol:UnderWaterVanya said:pH 7.2
TA 80
CH 350
pH is fine and will go up over time.
TA is fine - darn near perfect.
CH seems ok based on the other numbers. Your CSI is negative but as your CYA and pH come up I think you'll be fine. The CSI index looks good with a pH of 7.5 and a CYA of 20-40.
Typically you want to get that CYA up to a minimum of 20 - without it the sun will cook it very quickly. You also want to keep it as low as is practical while shocking - so as indicated above I'd add some CYA either with dichlor, trichlor or CYA. I'd target adding about 10ppm first and rechecking and then adding another 5ppm if you're still below 20.
You already inspired me; I've seen your thread before. I picked up the pieces today to do something similar, except I'm going down to 3/4" to a garden hose adapter. That way I can put the waste water wherever I want it.bobodaclown said:If it means anything i added a drain to my CC100. Hers the link: adding-a-to-waste-drain-to-plumbing-t35088.html?
Working well.
How much dichlor did you add and what CYA was the expected result - I assume you did enough to get a FC of around 8 and that added about 5-8ppm of CYA - and you plan to do a few more times as FC falls - right?SebringDon said:Still looking to get my CYA up, I used Vanya' suggestion for using the OPTIMUM granules. I tested it this morning and while it's still below 20, at least the water in the vial didn't look crystal-clear.![]()
Excellent! Keep track of everything you have added and treat the pool as though it has that much CYA in it. I would not remeasure CYA again until you have added another 10-15ppm of CYA. You only have enough test material to measure around 4 times - don't waste it but try not to overshoot. Anything between 20-30 CYA is going to be rational for shocking and 30-40 would be perfect for closing.SebringDon said:I did my first FAS-DPD test this morning and came up with 10.0 FC, .5 CC, 10.5 TC. The water's now clear enough that I can see the leaves on the bottom, so I've got a little more netting to do. I even discovered with the judicious use of the brush that my main drain is white, and not black as it appeared to be in the past.![]()
Good plan - also watch your chlorine losses - if you see losses after sundown - you are fighting organic growth of some type. Eventually when the water is clear and the leaves are out - you'll want to test overnight chlorine loss but we'll cover that later.SebringDon said:I've started scrubbing down the walls, and I'll test those stains to figure out if they're black algae or not sometime today.
Check close to nightfall and bump it up then - the CYA isn't an issue at night only during the day. Try to keep the minimum FC up as best you can during the day - shocking is easier if you keep up the pressure - I'd just dive in now.SebringDon said:I'm still waiting on starting the full shocking process in earnest until I see decent CYA numbers, and I don't want to add CYA too fast since it may take time to show up on the test.
I mix for a while, wait for a while and mix for a while - I've tried both and I don't see a huge difference.SebringDon said:Oh, and a question of the CYA test. The TF-100 kit says mix, wait 30 second and mix again. Both articles I've read here say mix continuously for 30 seconds. Which is it? I did the mix continuously today, but before that I followed the kit directions.
I've put in sufficient Trichlor and stabilizer to raise the CYA to 22. I'll clear my calendar and dive into the full shock process, and give it a couple days before I test CYA again, assuming I'm at 20 or thereabouts. I'm down to a handful of leaves, chasing them down one at a time now.UnderWaterVanya said:How much dichlor did you add and what CYA was the expected result - I assume you did enough to get a FC of around 8 and that added about 5-8ppm of CYA - and you plan to do a few more times as FC falls - right?
Keep track of everything you have added and treat the pool as though it has that much CYA in it. I would not remeasure CYA again until you have added another 10-15ppm of CYA. You only have enough test material to measure around 4 times - don't waste it but try not to overshoot. Anything between 20-30 CYA is going to be rational for shocking and 30-40 would be perfect for closing.
Good plan - also watch your chlorine losses - if you see losses after sundown - you are fighting organic growth of some type. Eventually when the water is clear and the leaves are out - you'll want to test overnight chlorine loss but we'll cover that later.
Try to keep the minimum FC up as best you can during the day - shocking is easier if you keep up the pressure - I'd just dive in now.
It's a good thing, because that's what I've been doing. I've got a lot of staining, both black and brown, that doesn't seem to be impacted much even by the steel brush. The whole south wall, which gets little sun, appears to have black algae growing along the edge where the wall meets the bottom. The north wall, by contrast, looks great. I'm working on figuring out exactly what I'm dealing with there so I can get it cleaned up.bobodaclown said:Yes, it is ok to brush the whole pool with the wire brush.