Saltwater šŸ†š Non-saltwater chemistry levels

You need a proper test kit. We can’t provide guidance based on pool store data.
From the Taylor 2006 these are my readings from just now which is crazy because I tested the chlorine this morning at 8 AM and I had a chlorine level of 2 and now it is 0 after I had the boost donafter I had the boost on my SWG since 8 AM. It is 12:00 here now.
Obviously, I need to add some liquid chlorine.

What would you suggest for to correct all of the following?

Chlorine 0
pH lower than 7.0
Alkalinity 170 ppm
hardness 190 ppm
CYA lower than 30
salinity 2160
Temperature 74
 
Your pH is on the low end (if you can trust the results) and these pool store morons are telling you to both raise and lower the pH at the same time? I hope you can see how poor the advice you're getting is...

Your water might look ok, but if your FC is truly that low, you're back in algae-ville. I'd really encourage you to get serious about self-testing and learn how simple pool care can be.

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Right? That’s why I stopped listening to them. Basically just went there to get the test done which I know understand is also off faceThat’s why I stopped listening to them. Basically just went there to get the test done which I know understand is also off base.

What would you suggest I do for the following readings from my 2006 which I did just now.

Also to note I did check my chlorine at 8 AM four hours prior and it was reading at 2 and is now zero šŸ™

Chlorine 0
pH lower than 7.0
Alkalinity 170 ppm
hardness 190 ppm
CYA lower than 30
salinity 2160
Temperature 74
 
You need CYA of at least 30ppm (for now). Use pool math to add 20ppm and re-test a day later.
If you don't have sufficient CYA, your FC is eaten very quickly by UV from the sun. For SWCG pools, TFP recommends 60-70 CYA.

I struggle to understand how you have low pH, but high TA, as that's not really possible. High TA causes pH to rise.
Focus on adding the CYA and add liquid chlorine to keep FC above the minimum FC/CYA Levels.

Once you have 30ppm of CYA, you can do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test which can confirm if you need to SLAM Process.
 
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You need CYA of at least 30ppm (for now). Use pool math to add 20ppm and re-test a day later.
If you don't have sufficient CYA, your FC is eaten very quickly by UV from the sun. For SWCG pools, TFP recommends 60-70 CYA.

I struggle to understand how you have low pH, but high TA, as that's not really possible. High TA causes pH to rise.
Focus on adding the CYA and add liquid chlorine to keep FC above the minimum FC/CYA Levels.

Once you have 30ppm of CYA, you can do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test which can confirm if you need to SLAM Process.
Thank you! I'm not really sure how the levels are possible but I did each test twice. Maybe I will do them each one more time for good measure.

I just added 30 ounces of liquid chlorinator at 12.5%
And then just to confirm I’ve never had to mess with the CYA before. What I need to use is the liquid stabilizer, correct? I have some called instant conditioner-that is stabilizer.

You need CYA of at least 30ppm (for now). Use pool math to add 20ppm and re-test a day later.
If you don't have sufficient CYA, your FC is eaten very quickly by UV from the sun. For SWCG pools, TFP recommends 60-70 CYA.

I struggle to understand how you have low pH, but high TA, as that's not really possible. High TA causes pH to rise.
Focus on adding the CYA and add liquid chlorine to keep FC above the minimum FC/CYA Levels.

Once you have 30ppm of CYA, you can do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test which can confirm if you need to SLAM Process.
 
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