Hoping someone can help. I had my water tested last week 0 chlorine, they told me to do super chlorinate for 24hrs, I also told them that the walls seemed a bit slimy....but they didnt suggest anything. Anyway, yesterday it started to turn green, today a little more. When and got tested, 0 chlorine again. This time they tested for phosphates and it was 750. Recommendation was to lower phosphates, poured the liquid in. Then tomorrow night I'm supposed to shock, then 24 hrs later they said to backwash and rinse. Then get retested on Monday. I feel like I should be doing something else, I know I'll wake up and wake up to a really green pool. I'm feeling depressed, finally a perfect weather weekend and my pool is green.
Salt Pool, its green, do I slam?
- Thread starter Ruthie#1971
- Start date
kul
Bronze Supporter
- Oct 1, 2021
- 1,434
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Welcome! Yes you are going to need to slam. You also need a test kit so you can measure accurately. Start by reading about TFP
Pool Care Basics
Test Kits Compared
SLAM Process
Also start adding liquid chlorine while you get a good test kit. To know how much, download the poolmath app. Your SWG cannot produce chlorine fast enough for a slam. Don’t worry about phosphates and stop taking advice from the pool store.
Pool Care Basics
Test Kits Compared
SLAM Process
Also start adding liquid chlorine while you get a good test kit. To know how much, download the poolmath app. Your SWG cannot produce chlorine fast enough for a slam. Don’t worry about phosphates and stop taking advice from the pool store.
Thanks so much for responding!! So my CYA is 35, so I selected 30, since it was that or 40. It says level 12 for SLAM? What does that mean. Do I buy chlorine or liquid shock...I'm a bit confused. I wish I went with my instincts, I knew there was algae, but the kid at the pool store didn't say I needed anything.
kul
Bronze Supporter
- Oct 1, 2021
- 1,434
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Round up your CYA to 40. Always round up.
12-that means bring your chlorine to that level.
Poolmath will indicate how much chlorine you need to add to get to that level. Buy liquid chlorine. Walmart, Home Depot and Lowe’s sell the 10% version. You can get the 12.5% from a pool supply store. Either works. Since your pool is green you’re going to need a lot so buy as much as you can so you don’t have to keep going back to buy more. The reason you need to use liquid chlorine is that it doesn’t add anything else such as CYA or Calcium.
Forget the idea of “shocking” your pool. That’s not really what we do here at TFP.
12-that means bring your chlorine to that level.
Poolmath will indicate how much chlorine you need to add to get to that level. Buy liquid chlorine. Walmart, Home Depot and Lowe’s sell the 10% version. You can get the 12.5% from a pool supply store. Either works. Since your pool is green you’re going to need a lot so buy as much as you can so you don’t have to keep going back to buy more. The reason you need to use liquid chlorine is that it doesn’t add anything else such as CYA or Calcium.
Forget the idea of “shocking” your pool. That’s not really what we do here at TFP.
kul
Bronze Supporter
- Oct 1, 2021
- 1,434
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Also for tonight, relax! There’s nothing you can do until tomorrow. You’re in good hands here and others will also come on board to help. It’s gonna be ok!
Hey Ruthie and Welcome !!!!
Kul has you WELL covered above. You need a reliable test kit to take control yourself. The TF100 or TFpro from tftestkits.net are better values than the k2006 or k2006c. Both of the TF kits have a salt option that adds the $30 salt kit for $20, saving even more.
As a newb with a swamp, you will want the SLAM option for either TF kit as you will be testing far more than normal for the next week or two and you'll use most/all of your year's supply of FC reagents.
The TFpro salt also comes with a $48 stirring device that the others don't. It's the hands down winner once you add up all the components you want.
But. We need you to use Taylor drops so we know what to do for you. Feel free to buy the too small k2006, or the k2006C that has way too many CH and TA tests that you won't do often. Both kits are totally functional albeit not great values.
Kul has you WELL covered above. You need a reliable test kit to take control yourself. The TF100 or TFpro from tftestkits.net are better values than the k2006 or k2006c. Both of the TF kits have a salt option that adds the $30 salt kit for $20, saving even more.
As a newb with a swamp, you will want the SLAM option for either TF kit as you will be testing far more than normal for the next week or two and you'll use most/all of your year's supply of FC reagents.
The TFpro salt also comes with a $48 stirring device that the others don't. It's the hands down winner once you add up all the components you want.
But. We need you to use Taylor drops so we know what to do for you. Feel free to buy the too small k2006, or the k2006C that has way too many CH and TA tests that you won't do often. Both kits are totally functional albeit not great values.
The kid at the pool store isn’t purposefully steering you wrong, he probably just doesn’t know any better and is just there for the summer. That’s why TFP recommends that no one trust any testing or advice from a pool store. It’s an all too common theme.
If your water is green, you need chlorine. Liquid shock = Chlorine. The powdered chlorine contains other stuff you don’t want in you water, especially if you don’t have a good test kit as mentioned above.