Salt Chlorinator install...anything I need to know before I install?

ashtonbritney

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Bronze Supporter
Jul 31, 2018
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Albemarle, NC
Happy Friday Everyone!
I just ordered a salt cholrinator PureLine 40,000 system. I am pretty handy and confident in the install but stupid things like releasing the water pressure, is there anything I have to worry about? How do you calculate the lbs of salt? Do I have to do anything with the current chlorinated (liquid) water?
 
Order K-1766 Taylor Salt Test You can not rely on the salinity readings from the SWG.

Test your pool water for salt with your K-1766 Taylor Salt Test All pools have some salt. Then use PoolMath to calculate amount needed. Add 2/3 of calculated amount, let circulate for 24 hours, and retest. People often overshoot adding salt.

If you have 0 salt in your water you need 15 40lb bags in 24,000 gallons to get 3,000 ppm.

Don’t buy Clorox pool salt. People have had staining problems with it.

You will continue to have chlorinated water. Just the CL will come from the SWG instead of a jug or tab.

What is your CYA?
 
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Once you have the salt in, bring your pool up to your desired chlorine level using liquid chlorine. Also make sure you bump up your CYA level to match SWG use (about 70-80ppm) Once the pool is where you want it, I would set the unit to 60% for 10 hours of pump operation. After a couple days, see where you are at. If your CL levels are low, then either bump up the percentage or extend your pump run time. If they are high, lower the percentage or lower a little run time. Also take note, if the weather takes a turn and you have 100 + degree days, expect that your pools CL demand will be higher, so your testing will reflect a lower CL level. You can either adjust to compensate, or just add a little liquid CL to compensate. Good luck, in the end I think you will be happier with the salt pool.
 
I assume you open the drain valve, to release any pressure, then turn the jandy valve to close? Then I should be able to cut the pipe and start installing? I downloaded the PDF install instructions but it doesn't mention anything about the valve/water lines etc

Ah ok I see. You don't have any latent pressure in your pipes when everything is off. The system is open on both ends (pressure/suction). Of course you would want your pipes as dry as possible on the connecting ends when you glue everything up. Also I suggest using a sawsall for cutting the pipes especially if they are 2" pipes. Those cheapy "plier" style ratcheting pipe cutters will make a mess of larger pipes. I just did a complete re-plumb of a pool and use the sawsall for all of my cuts. I think it was a fine tooth metal blade that I used. Another tip have a heavy duty rag to clean up the ends of the pipes once they are cut. This is a lot easier than using sandpaper and a lot less chance of cutting your hands on the fresh cut PVC.
 
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Can I replace the original metal heater Union kit with a short plastic version? I need the room to install the swg. I was thinking about replacing the outlet with this?
 

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