Salt cell not looking healthy

Apr 1, 2012
8
Brisbane, Australia
Pool Size
50000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
Hi everyone. New pool owner who has finally started to learn about pool chemistry and just come out of a successful first SLAM.

tldr - based on the attached images, does my salt cell look as bad to you as it does to me (my untrained eye is telling me that is not good, but it's an untrained eye) ?

Longer version:

Present water chemistry:
pH - was set to 7.2 before SLAM, FC still too high to measure properly
FC - 21 ppm (reducing from SLAM level 31)
CC - 0
CYA- 75 (treated as 80)
Salt - 5400 ppm (Australian equipment as per signature, recommended salt is ~5000 for my equipment)
TA - unreliable as pool shop reading, waiting on drop test to arrive. However their other readings agreed well with my first proper tests, so I'll post it - 120
CH - 300

One of the things I'd spotted before the present algae problem two weeks ago, was the old unit reporting chlorine output at 3 lights out of 8. About 5 months ago (yes, thanks to this forum I have learned much since then and will never be checking my equipment this infrequently again!) it was reporting 100% output.

My first salt test revealed I'd let it get too low (~2800 ppm). As I've inherited the equipment from a house purchase and wasn't smart enough to ask about it, I'm piecing things together with clues. What I suspect has happened is that I've let an aging salt cell quickly deteriorate to needing replacement by not keeping salt high enough. Would be interested to see if you agree. There is no real other diagnostic output available. All I know about the power pack is that it is from a company that was apparently 'OK' (Poolrite) but went under in 2012, so this is mis-matched equipment (AIS Aquachlor RP25 salt cell). Other clue maybe on the image with the cell housing, some brown build-up still visible on the right. The whole inside of the housing was covered in this brown coating. I cleaned it a bit to check for bubble production when running the system.

Anything else...it looks like the previous owners probably had a salt cell fail sometime between 2012 and ? (2012 is when the makers of the power unit ceased to exist), and ended up pairing the power unit at 35A with a 25A salt cell. Not sure if this is a no-no or not but if anyone feels like commenting, I'm all ears.

Also at this point I don't suspect the aging power unit as we are generating some chlorine, but if a complete SWG is just the smart thing to do here, I'd consider it.

Thanks.
 

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Have you tried soaking the cell in white vinegar or a 50/50 mix of MA/water to see if that stuff on the plates dissolves? I usually try vinegar first, as I feel it's less caustic and less likely to damage the plates.
 
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Thanks very much @jeffchap. I had the same initial thought as you and did a 5 minute soak in 10:1 water:acid to remove what I could without it lingering too long. What I believe the lighter spots are now, especially in the middle plates, are bare metal where the surface coating is gone. I think this is showing up mainly in the fourth plate down in image 16847.... Looking toward the left, there is a black spot that looks to be an island of remaining surface coating. If that is the case then I think I've answered my own question and this needs replacement soon!

If I'm wrong though happy to listen and be educated.
 
From looking at the pictures your cell is well worn. Looks like the outer coating has started to thin out. Cells only have a certain amount of runtime so the more you use it the shorter it's life. Using acid to clean it will also shorten the life of the cell.
The Surechlor 3500 has a 25gram models so your cell is probably suited. Have closer look at the model number to see if it's a 3500-25. The 25 means it's a 25gram/hr model.
 
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The dilution for using MA is 4 parts water to 1 part acid. I am SURE that vinegar will work, just takes longer and will be less damaging to the cell.

For more information about SWGs, see these articles


 
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