Salt Cell not Generating

[DenMan]

Hello I have an Aqua Trol AQ-TROL-RJ-CUL and a few days ago it began showing the Cell Current at 0.00 and the Instant Salinity at -0.00. The power light stays on and the two Inspect Cell and Check Salt red lights stay on. It will not give me a salt reading even when I test it by pressing from auto to super chlorinate and back to auto, I hear the clicking but no reading it just stays at 0.00. It's not generating any chlorine. The pool has enough salt and the chemicals are all balanced. It's only been used less than 3 summers. I cleaned the cell but it was spotless anyway. I made sure the cell cord was pushed in all the way. A lot of sites on the internet say it could be the current limiter but mine looks fine with no visable damage or burn marks. Any help is appreciated before I go spending a bunch of money replacing the T Cell or board.
Thanks

 

[Meadow]

I think I misunderstood the problem here. What's the voltage reading in the diagnostic?
What is the actual salt level in your water and how do you test the salinity? If the inspect cell and check salt indicator are on solid, the cell reports 2300 ppm or less and chlorine production is halted. Also, verify the cell model # on the display matches the model listed on the cell. Try to reset and post the diagnostic when you get the chance.

The fact that you mentioned the power light stays on indicate the thermistor might be good but you can verify that with a multimeter.
Please check this out >https://www.troublefreepool.com/thr...Diagnose-amp-Troubleshoot-your-own-Main-Board

Here's the Hayward Aquarite Troubleshooting Guidelines for your reference.

 

[DenMan]

Hi Meadow thanks for your response. My Cell Voltage reading is 31.3. The Cell Amperage is displaying 0.00. I just had the water tested at a pool store. The salt is at 3269. When I test it with the strips at home its shows 3160 so I have enough salt. The cell model display is reading AL-7 which is aqua trol return jet (RJ) which is what I have. Its a return jet T-CELL-5. Another thing is that its displaying the pool water temperature which is accurate. The temp is at 80 F right now.
I will have to get a multimeter to test the thermistor and I will post when I find out the result. Thanks

 

[Meadow]

If the salt level is indeed it is as claimed, try to reseat the display board. If the symptoms persist, I will be inclined to take the cell for testing.

The fact that you read 31 Volts on the display is indicative that the Caps are charged via thermistor. This indicates that the thermistor is good. Unless it behaves like a PTC as claimed on the other thread. The voltage reading on the display is a mirror of the voltage passing through the load side of the Thermistor. And it is normal for the 31 volts reading on the display to go down depending on the cell type when either K1 or K2 relay is energized. If the cell reports did not satisfy the microcontroller, then it will instruct the relay to de-energize via U5 disconnecting power to the cell. Hence, chlorine production is suspended (0 amp, -0 salinity).

From my understanding, the AquaTrol is very similar to the Aquarite mainboard except for the timer and additional K3 relay which handles the AC power to the bd. And to me, AL-7 is irrelevant if you don’t have automation control system.

The thermal resistor aka thermistor housed inside the cell is isolated and don’t care if the cell has power or not. The water temperature reading, coupled with the click of the relay you described above suggests that the onboard low voltage power supply is functioning properly.

If the cell is tested good, focus the troubleshooting on either K1 or K2. Let’s pause here and let us know.

 

[JamesW]

Move the switch to off for a few minutes and then back to auto and recheck the diagnostic readings.

Make sure that the cell is plugged in securely.