Salt Cell Dying/dead

Nashvillejoe

Gold Supporter
Apr 14, 2013
119
Nashville
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
My t-15 turns on seems to fire up fine- and after about 60 sec the solid light on check cell and solid on check salt- pop

I know my salt is around 4000 a little high but we are getting some rain - and my chemicals are close (pool store test)

The unit is a few years old but clean and I just recently cleaned it….

Could this be my board on the gold line aqua right - or just a dying cell….

Thanks in advance
 
There are 8 tabs of info but none of it is the salt reading-
 

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Last edited:
Diagnostics should show the volts, amps, salinity, temperature and cell type.

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:
  • Report all readings when you..
    • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
    • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
    • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
  • What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
 
Diagnostics should show the volts, amps, salinity, temperature and cell type.

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:
  • Report all readings when you..
    • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
    • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
    • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
  • What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
Are u referring to the readouts on the box LCD ??
 
Yes, every time you press the button on the left the display cycles to another diagnostic.
Allen…. So i never get the salt reading- the check salt is solid yellow and the inspect cell is solid red- that usually happens after about 90 sec…
so starting for the T cell type- its 15
1 1.8
2 27
3 31.9
4 0.00
5 100p
6 -0.00
7 AL-0
8 r 1.59
9 t-15
 
It is set to metric.

Change back to standard (See video) and

Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
 
It is set to metric.

Change back to standard (See video) and

Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
Wow …… you guys are really smart - i’m very impressed!!!
auto to off:
1800, 77, 32.1, 0.00, 100p, 0, AL-0, r1.59
back 2 Auto
1800, 77, 32.2, 0.00, 100p, 0, AL-0, r1.59
back to auto
1800, 77, 32.2, 0.00, 100p, 0, AL-0, r1.59

Cell; S-15-1228. Choronator Pro
Box; 5A0602-1
i took water to the pool store and they said i had 4000 reading….
 

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Is it not coming on at all?

Are you taking the reading right away?

You should see amps and instant salinity.

The cell will cut off due to low salt after maybe 30 seconds, so you have to check the readings before it cuts off with a low salt warning.

The box is from 2006 and the circuit board has been replaced.

The cell is an aftermarket and not genuine Hayward.

I don't know how old the cell is.

The manufacturer can probably tell from the Serial number.

Some stores test Hayward style cells, so maybe have it tested.
 
Is it not coming on at all?
it comes on for about 90 sec and then kills
Are you taking the reading right away?
yep taking the reading at the moment i turned it on….
You should see amps and instant salinity.
no sure what this is…… i will run the sequence in the morning….
The cell will cut off due to low salt after maybe 30 seconds, so you have to check the readings before it cuts off with a low salt warning.
the salt reading on the box is 1800 but when i take the water to the pool store they tell me its 4000……. Thats confusing
The box is from 2006 and the circuit board has been replaced.
sounds about right
The cell is an aftermarket and not genuine Hayward.
the cell is aftermarket and is about 6 years old….. these things are rated for 10K + hours and its a pretty good bet i am there
I don't know how old the cell is.

The manufacturer can probably tell from the Serial number.

Some stores test Hayward style cells, so maybe have it tested.
i do have a new Hayward on its way - most likely be here tomorrow…. Thanks so much for taking a look
i’ll run the process again in the am
 
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Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:

  • Default salt display
  • Pool temp
  • Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
  • Cell current
  • Desired output (% of the knob)
  • Instant salinity
  • Product name
  • Software revision (r.XX)
  • Cell type
 
That's what happens when the cell is dead.

What size Hayward cell?

Note that the last reading is the cell size and it needs to match the cell size.

The sizes are 3, 5, 9 and 15.


My new salt cell came today - it’s a T9 Hayward-

I am now onto connecting a color logic 4.0 into my panel - any suggestions??

When I had my TriStar motor put in last year they put in a Hayward control panel that controls lights and allows me to use an app but they re-wired all the lighting connections so I’m not sure how to wire the light in
 
A T-9 cell is rated for a 25K pool if run at 100% 24/7. It is really too small for your 20K pool.

You should be using a T-15 cell.
 
Got my lights connected and working - omni logic fired right up when i updated the firmware !!
 

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