Salt at 7200-8400, but Salt cell says low salt!

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ChristenQ

ChristenQ

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Jun 2, 2017
20
Cicero, IN
I was just getting the pool to a point where I didn’t have to add acid every day. This morning the Pentair IntelliChlor (this will be its third season) was indicating low salt, so I tested salt. 3 Taylor tests results ranged from 7200-8400. Aaah! I must have grossly miscalculated earlier in the season. Last time I added salt was 2 months ago. Pic of cell plates attached. Some plates look a little black, but I’m not seeing much scale or build-up. What is happening? Pool math app is telling me to drain and refill 50%. That is so disheartening! Our hose water is well water with lots of iron. Is there a better way? Could I get there eventually by just backwashing down to skimmer level and refilling with hose? Should I bite the bullet and just call a pool water truck?

==========================================
Quakenbush Pool
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Build Type: Fiberglass
Volume: 12000 gallons
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Latest Test Result Summary:
FC: 4.2 (59 minutes ago)
CC: 0.4 (one month ago)
pH: 7.5 (59 minutes ago)
TA: 200 (11 days ago)
CH: 230 (11 days ago)
CYA: 30 (one month ago)
SALT: 7200 (59 minutes ago)
TEMPERATURE: 86° (one month ago)
CSI: -0.04 (59 minutes ago)
==========================================
------------------------------------------
Test Results 07-13-2019 @ 08:27 AM
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Free Chlorine: 4.2
pH: 7.5
Salt: 7200
CSI: -0.04image.jpg
 
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The Pentair 520736 flow switch known failure mode is to report low salt. It is the thermistor (that measures the pool water temperature) that fails. Yours has. You need to replace the flow switch. Is this Intellichlor under warranty? If not, you can order a OEM switch for about $100 or an after market switch for about $60.

You should get your salt level down to the 4000 ppm range. The Intellichlor can compensate for the high salt, but prolonged use like that can be detrimental.

I am going to ask @JamesW to jump in and let you know his view.
 
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mknauss said:
The Pentair 520736 flow switch known failure mode is to report low salt. It is the thermistor (that measures the pool water temperature) that fails. Yours has. You need to replace the flow switch. Is this Intellichlor under warranty? If not, you can order a OEM switch for about $100 or an after market switch for about $60.
Click to expand...
Thank you! I would have never figured that out! This group is amazing! I’ll check the warranty, and get the new part.
 
Press and hold the "More" button until the lights scroll and then release and watch for what percentage light lights up.

Then, immediately press and release the More button again and note which percentage lights light up.

Are you sure that you're doing the salt test correctly? Your results are too far apart, which indicates testing errors.

I never rely on any single salinity test when there is any doubt. I would find another way to test the salinity.
 
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JamesW said:
Press and hold the "More" button until the lights scroll and then release and watch for what percentage light lights up.

Then, immediately press and release the More button again and note which percentage lights light up.

Are you sure that you're doing the salt test correctly? Your results are too far apart, which indicates testing errors.

I never rely on any single salinity test when there is any doubt. I would find another way to test the salinity.
Click to expand...
Thank you, I did this after a quick acid wash and reinstall. There didn’t seem to be much bubbling so I quickly rinsed.
After holding “more” button, the lights scrolled and I released. None of the percentage indicators were lit. However, the low salt light came on for a few seconds then switched to good salt level (solid green). After second time pressing and releasing “more” button, 2% lit up.

Good news is it’s saying good salt level now. I will find a secondary salt test method. I’ve seen the strips mentioned here, I’ll order some.

Thank you TFP for getting me up and running again today! Birthday party for our 7 yo tonight will be a success! I don’t know what I’d do with TFP!
 

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You can check the cell temperature reading by pressing the “More” button after the display shows 1,000s of hours of usage, will show temperature as follows:

Lights…………….....………Temperature
No LEDs………….…..………Below 30F
40%..........................36 to 45F
40% and 60%............46 to 55F
60%..........................56 to 65F
60% and 80%............66 to 75F
80%.........................76 to 85F
80 and 100%............86 to 95F
100%.......................96 to 99F
100% blinking……..….over 99F
All LEDs blinking……...Sensor bad

The temperature sensor is probably bad. What is the water temperature?
 
Well, as helpful as you all have been I’m very embarrassed to say that I retested per JamesW’s advice and it was a test user error. I was filling to the 25 mL line instead of 10 mL line. ? Filling to the correct line gives me a salt reading of 2400ppm. Poolmath is telling me to add 3 bags. Thank you guys, because I was chasing my tail!
 
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