Rust on diving board base: how to remove & prevent?

[mart242]

Last year I asked the pool builder why he did not use the salt water diving board base from SR Smith instead of the regular one he uses since I'd be going with saltwater. His answer? "I've never seen one rust and my supplier can't get the salt water base". I pushed the issue and 3 weeks later they were pouring the concrete. Next day, he tells me that his supplier finally got back to him saying that he could get the salt water base but of course it was now too late.

Fast forward to this year, I install the diving board in the spring and two months later the Dang thing rusts

I call him, he inquires SR Smith that tells him "the customer should have used the salt water base". His supplier tells him that he should simply powder coat the base and it would solve the issue since that's all what SR Smith does.

Is this actually the case? Is there something else they should do? I googled a bit for powder coat and I see that sometimes they add a rust inhibitor? I want to be sure to tell the pool builder exactly what to do to solve the situation, I don't want the Dang thing to rust again next year. FYI, my water parameters are bang on according to the pool school.


THanks

 

[X-PertPool]

I would just sand the rusted areas and paint it with an epoxy paint. Also a slightly more expensive option would be to use white herculiner, the stuff is very durable and would prevent rust forming from nicks in the paint when installing the dive
http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&sa ... a=N&tab=wf

also put some anti-seize on those bolts

 

[mart242]

also put some anti-seize on those bolts

Thanks for the info. I'll look into it. The pool builder is footing the bill though, so are the solutions you propose still better than the powder coat? I like the herculiner one though..


I used white lithium grease on the bolts, I guess it's time to put some more!

 

[X-PertPool]

I think the herculiner will be the most durable since you won't be able to scratch it off, lithium grease is good too. a lot of people end up not putting anything on ever, that's where you run into trouble. A powder coat should be pretty durable it self, but the herculiner can be applied to be a 1/8" thick if needed.

 

[PoolGuyNJ]

I would expect the powder coat to crack off after a few years from the flexing. I like the Herculiner idea better. I believe a replaceable zinc anode will help prevent rusting there too.

Scott

 

[lborne]

I can't tell how large the base is from your photo, but is it possible to have one made from stainless. 316 would be ideal, 304 acceptable.

If not, then any type of coating will help. I see they put an insulator between the washer and the base, which is good. I'd probably add a thin piece of plastic to keep the metal from touching the concrete, if only to keep the coating from getting scratched where the water will collect. For an anode to work, you'll need a stud or such that is not coated.

 

[mart242]

Time to revisit that issue.. my pool builder hasn't repainted my diving board yet (it's winter here so it's not like I'll use it anyways!) and told me that he can have it repainted or give me a new base. I think that I'll go with a new base and pay for the painting myself but I'm still undecided.. The base is quite hefty, I'm having one made from stainless seems like it would be quite expensive! 316 doen't appear immune to rust either... http://www.finishing.com/163/05.shtml

I like the herculiner idea as well but does anyone know how well it will stick to the paint the diving board comes with? That was the concern from a friend.

I guess I should also look into sacrificial anodes (could put it on a bolt) and will definitely look into putting thin pieces of plastic to isolate the base from the concrete.

 

[Bama Rambler]

The stainless steel you need would be 316L, and you're right it would be pretty expensive to have built right.

The Herculiner will work. If you've ever seen them apply it you know that they use a sanding wheel to roughen all the paint before applying it, If they do that in every possible place on the frame then it will stick and last. You could alternately have the base bead blasted and then Herculiner coated.

 

[Guest]

Once you get this all resolved and replaced/repainted, go ahead and cut the bolts flush with the nuts. Then those caps will fit properly and not balance on top of the bolt ends

 

[mart242]

Once you get this all resolved and replaced/repainted, go ahead and cut the bolts flush with the nuts. Then those caps will fit properly and not balance on top of the bolt ends

I thought about that but if I cut them (grinder w/ cutoff wheel?), won't it damage the top of the thread and make it impossible to put the bolt back? A tap / die set could fix that on a small bolt but that one is far from small...


I'll look into herculiner here to see who could do that. Sounds like it's my best bet.

 

[Bama Rambler]

If you cut the bolts off once the nuts are in place it's a breeze to unscrew the nuts. Those look like ½" bolts, which to me are small. It's all relative.

 

[mart242]

If you cut the bolts off once the nuts are in place it's a breeze to unscrew the nuts. Those look like ½" bolts, which to me are small. It's all relative.

Easy there.. One of them is 5/8. The last 1/8 inch counts.

<that's what she said>

:lol:

 

[mart242]

It looks like I never updated this thread so I'll do it for those who may be searching for a similar issue in the future. I ended up having a new base (provided by pool builder) sprayed with black rhino hybrid and it looks quite nice. It has lasted all summer without any issues http://www.rhinovehicleprotection.com/e ... ino-Hybrid but I have no idea how long it will last because the guy who sprayed it told me that it's really hard to spray it properly on the sides since it's fairly thin.