Rookie looking for advice

DLaplante

Active member
Jun 9, 2012
31
0
Ham Lake, Minnesota
#1
FC - 16
CC - 1.5
pH - 7.2
TA - 100
CH - 60
CYA - 30 I think I have been adding CYA to the skimmer in a sock
Borates - NA

Bought a foreclosure, uncovered a murky green swamp, initially tried the pool first aid and dichlor, made some difference but then. blah.
cleaned out all the junk, was running pump 24/7 and pump went out, ugh!
stopped everything, waited for new pump then found TFP WHEEEW!
got new pump, went to wally world got bleach, borax, and BS, put new pump on old housing, bubbles, bubbles (was the pump housing of course) cut PVC added new housing, back to running smmoth.
using Taylor 2006 kit for testing
tried a copper based algaecide also and wasn't paying enough attention to my water (dumb) and then shocked I think i have metal stains on the walls and fiberglass stairs. I tried the AA test with a Vitamin C tab and it turned the spot bright white? so have ordered the AA to try it after I get the water clear and blue? I tend to bounce around its my ADHD I think. I have well water and added it to the pool already, not sure if that was a big mistake since i think the stains are from the well water?
Questions:
1.the stuff to take the metal out Sequestrants, can you add them anytime?
2. how long should I expect to wait to see blue water?
 

DLaplante

Active member
Jun 9, 2012
31
0
Ham Lake, Minnesota
#2
update
as of 10:45 last night
FC - 17.5
CC - 2.5
pH - 7.2
TA - 110
CYA - 20-30 cant really tell with the taylor 2006 but continuing to add slowly till I can
I think my FC is holding at 16 now today as of 0530, pump running, and some sediment, and still green water?

anyone know of a cheap test kit for metals?
 

linen

LifeTime Supporter
TFP Expert
Jul 30, 2010
8,649
0
48
Twin Cities, MN
#3
Welcome to tfp, DLaplante :wave:

It sounds like you are already doing the shocking process?

That is the first thing for you to do.

DLaplante said:
anyone know of a cheap test kit for metals?
Pool stores and water softner stores can test metal concentrations for you. The metals testing kits get a bit expensive.

DLaplante said:
the stuff to take the metal out Sequestrants, can you add them anytime?
Take a look at this pool school article if you haven't yet: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/metal stains. It has recommendation sequesterant brands. I wouldn't add any until you are done shocking.

DLaplante said:
how long should I expect to wait to see blue water?
This is quite variable. With you fairly high CC reading you have a ways to go with the shocking process.
 

linen

LifeTime Supporter
TFP Expert
Jul 30, 2010
8,649
0
48
Twin Cities, MN
#6
The end of shocking criteria is in the shocking process (also in red in my sig), you must pass all three criteria (together) before lower your FC levels below your shock level. Typically CC sill drop down below 0.5 ppm a while before you can pass a OCLT.
 

lightingguy

LifeTime Supporter
Jun 18, 2010
513
0
Glendale, CA
#7
If you have a metals problem there may come a time when you have CLEAR green water (this would be the metals making it green)

As long as the water is murky/cloudy you are still fighting a problem with organics in the water.

It will take a while to oxidize and filter out all the algae etc. from the water (a week or two) - so stay the course with the shock process. If after a week your water seems to be clearing but is still bright green you can worry about metals.
 

Articfox918

Well-known member
May 31, 2012
99
0
45
Western, Wisconsin
#9
I also am on a well and have a a big Manganese and iron issue. I would once and awhile get the clear green water as stated above when I needed to fill due to evaporation or big splash out. I have used the PRO TEAM Metal Magic and works good for me. What I was doing before was adding water then testing and adding my bleach per pool calculator. I would wake up the next morning and BAM! Clear green water! I would then add the sequesterant and that would clear it up. What I have been doing recently is add a bit of the sequesterant prior to filling and let that run for a few hours then test and add needed chemicals. I haven't had an issue since I started that method with water changing colors. I am still playing with the amount of sequesterant VS water added ratio to determine my bottom line threshold but water has stayed crystal clear since I have been doing this.

As Linen stated shock till you pass those three criteria together and you will be OK

Oh and Welcome :wave: The people here know what they are talking about so follow and listen and master Pool School!
 

DLaplante

Active member
Jun 9, 2012
31
0
Ham Lake, Minnesota
#10
Thanks I have already ordered the PRO TEM i did see it in another thread and decided to just get it, looks like i made a good decision.
New question:
I tested this morning and had a FC 16, last night 17.5, and I had my daughter test today at 1230 and she gave me 53 drops? now I calculate that to be 26.5ppm how did it go up without adding bleach? am i loosing my mind, or did she do something worng? IDK thoughts?
 

linen

LifeTime Supporter
TFP Expert
Jul 30, 2010
8,649
0
48
Twin Cities, MN
#11
On a side note, I noticed your sig details about a change coming to your filter...why do you want to go to the C1200 filter from the S244 filter? The S244 filter is better sized for your pool.
 

linen

LifeTime Supporter
TFP Expert
Jul 30, 2010
8,649
0
48
Twin Cities, MN
#13
Our recommendation would be at least a 400 sq. ft. cart filter.

For a sand filter our recommendation would be 5.0 sq. ft., though if you went to that size, we would need to see if your pump could still backwash it.
 

DLaplante

Active member
Jun 9, 2012
31
0
Ham Lake, Minnesota
#14
ohh I almost forgot I did already buy them, and got the 1hp pump, to replace the failed 1.5hp pump do you think that may be a mistake? I thought they seemed a little small but figured they "knew" what they were talking about?

What model would I be looking at for 400sf?
 

linen

LifeTime Supporter
TFP Expert
Jul 30, 2010
8,649
0
48
Twin Cities, MN
#16
This would be better: http://www.inyopools.com/Products/02201212000436.htm...it is 425 sq. ft.

Your pool is bigger, and it really comes down to how often you have to clean it...and cleaning a cartridge filter takes a lot more time than backwashing a sand filter.

Generally a smaller pump is prefered, but water features, jets etc. can drive the need for higher flows. Do you have any of these?

Also, since you were in the market for a new pump, many people benefit from 2-speed pumps, and run on low most of the time to save electricity.
 

DLaplante

Active member
Jun 9, 2012
31
0
Ham Lake, Minnesota
#17
ok Maybe I should stick with my sand filter after seeing the price of the one you suggest. I will be keeping the sf in place till i get the water balanced.
Q: what do you mean by "your pool is bigger" do you think my calculations may be off?

currently no water features, just 2 skimmers, one valve for the main drain i think, 4 returns.
a polaris booster that sounds like the shaft is locked up and will try to turn, working on that.
a mineral thing. IDK? heater not sure on the model as the label is rubbed off, and there was an ozone thing that didnt work, i took it off.
it had not been even touched in 2 years. and Im a rookie all help is very much appreciated. thanks
 

linen

LifeTime Supporter
TFP Expert
Jul 30, 2010
8,649
0
48
Twin Cities, MN
#19
DLaplante said:
Q: what do you mean by "your pool is bigger" do you think my calculations may be off?
Sorry, I meant on a continuum of pool sizes, it is larger then many, therefore the equipment requirements are more significant. I have not checked your volume calculations.

Your existing sand filter is 3.2 sq. ft, so though it is small for what we would recommend, it will (and obviously has) work just with more frequent backwashing. Are you having any problems with it?

DLaplante said:
a mineral thing.
I wouldn't use it, you don't need it or what it is adding (usually copper, silver, and/or zinc).
 

DLaplante

Active member
Jun 9, 2012
31
0
Ham Lake, Minnesota
#20
Filter/Minearal thing

I replaced the sand and inspected, it seemed fine, multiport needed a new gasket under the handle, being a rookie i ordered a whole new valve, and after carefull evaluation decided not to cut into the PVC just yet and put the new top on the old body, gasket was not too bad, although i wanted to replace it with the one that came in the new valve it was glued in and i didnt want to tear it out, so i may wait till i re-position the whole set-up since the current "design" leaves no room for maint, or protection from the Minnesota elements.

Mineral: not sure i will keep it.
I want to dig it all out and pour a concrete slab, then position all of the equip in a way that makes sence for maintenance. maybe even make a half shelter of some type.
I was thinking of using flexible PVC for the above ground stuff, so I can just take the pump in in the winter, thoughts?
thanks.