RJ-45/60 install location

[Sn00py]

Hi All
I’m following this form for quite some time but this is my first post. I have a 28k gal pool and currently using a liquid chlorine. I have enough of ‘hunting’ chlorine around during the summer due to possible shortage again (Sacramento CA area) so I’d like to to install Rj45 or 60 (haven’t decided yet). Also my wife prefers salt pool (happy wife happy life they say )
I need help with a salt generator location. Based on picture where would it be best to install it? I have a solar heating too.
I did speak with Discount Salt Pool and they said that vertical installation is also possible?
I appreciate any help on this.

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! Tell me if I have this correct. Water leaves your filter (lower pipe), past a check valve, and comes to an actuator valve. I suspect that controls access to the solar by allowing water to travel along that long pipe against the filter if that valve is open (closed in the pic). Water returns from the solar along the long pipe on the far left before coming to the final 3-way valve going into the ground for drain/skimmer. Is that about it?

If so, here's the problem. If you have the 3-eay actuator valve solar closed like in the pic, water goes directly (left) to the T-fitting where it is forced to the final 3-way valve before the ground return. Since your solar won't have water going through it all of the time, you can't rely on that long length of pipe to the far left that returns from the solar. The SWG and flow switch need to be somewhere in the final stretch of moving water so that solar doesn't influence its operation. Does that make sense?

This is all assuming I'm following the water routes correctly. And since we are referring about a system that supports solar, I would like to ask @mas985 to ensure my thinking is correct about the SWG position since water flow will change based on solar use. If that's the case, I can only see the SWG being installed just before the PVC dips into the ground, but I see no room. Plumbing would need to be modified. So let me first ask you if my understanding of the water path is correct, and if so, if Mark has any other ideas related to the solar application with the SWG.

 

[Ahultin]

Least amount of re-plumbing but adds 5 90's to the plumbing

 

[Ahultin]

Option 2, more plumbing but less 90's
1. Cut out the straight pipes left of filter
2. Move the manual isolation valves on solar supply and return closer to the wall
3. Move return check valve to return shutoff with 2.5" coupler
4. Rotate 3 way solar bypass counter clockwise 90°
5. Additional 90 after filter and run into 3 way
6. Tee on solar return after solar check - 1 leg going to solar bypass, other leg straight then into swg and then to return actuator

 

[Sn00py]

You got it right and I was afraid there will be no space with current setup. We bought a house with a pool and previous owner redid original plumbing (old house/pool). We just added solar but at that time we didn’t think about going to SWG.
Is there a ‘thumb of rule’ how many 90s can be? I guess less as possible?
I see this will require some extensive planning

 

[Texas Splash]

Sure, less corners is always nicer, but not always a deal breaker. @mas985 is one of our resident solar and hydraulic experts who should be able to answer your 90 degree question. Planning ..... yes, but it can certainly be done. More to follow.

 

[Sn00py]

Thank you guys! I really appreciate all your help

 

[mknauss]

Looks like you have a VS pump and some form of automation. You may want to consider those when selecting what SWCG to get.

 

[Sn00py]

Yes I do have Intellipro 2 VST pump. Was thinking about that too. I can add a smart plug for SWG too if needed

 

[mknauss]

You have actuated valves. How are those instructed what to do?

 

[Sn00py]

You have actuated valves. How are those instructed what to do?

One valve for solar. There is an additional solar controller connected to a pump. When water temp is below required it will send a command to open the valve and tell a pump to use higher rpms while valve is open.

 

[mas985]

You got it right and I was afraid there will be no space with current setup. We bought a house with a pool and previous owner redid original plumbing (old house/pool). We just added solar but at that time we didn’t think about going to SWG.
Is there a ‘thumb of rule’ how many 90s can be? I guess less as possible?

Each 2" 90 has the equivalent head loss of less than 6' of straight pipe. Much like straight pipe, the more you have, the more head loss there is and the higher the RPM is needed for the same flow rate. So basically it just comes down to efficiency. However, I wouldn't get overly worked up about it because it really won't make that much of a difference given a handful of 90s is not going to add much to the total head loss.

As an example, for my setup, my pump uses about 145 watts at 50% speed. If I added 5 2" 90s to the plumbing, I would need to increase the speed to 50.7% for the same flow rate and the wattage would go up to 149 watts or a 4 watt delta. So not a big deal.

 

[Sn00py]

I've decided I will go with option 2 with less 90. Now I have another question. If I install SWG where it is shown on the photo, chlorine from the cell will go to the pool (red arrow) AND to the spa (green arrow).
Spa has a small overflow into the pool and the valve is open only 20-30% for the spa (small 2-3 people). We don't really use it. Wouldn't that be too much chlorine for the spa?

It is an old pool and I have only 1 valve to control pool & spa drains and skimmer (60-70% skimmer, 30-40% main drain). 1 valve to control returns. The pool has one main drain, one skimmer and 3 returns. Spa has 2 drains (I capped one) and 4 or 5 returns.
As said before return valve is in a position where spa returns are open only 20-30%.

Would it be better to move the return valve in front of the SWG so all the chlorine goes straight to the pool and spa will get its chlorine through water mixing in a filter? Or just leave as is?

 

[Ahultin]

I think I understand what you are asking and the only time you run the risk of too much chlorine generation is when you are in pure spa mode. With automation while in spa mode the swg % is automatically bumped down. In your system without automation, you'll just want to remember to turn the swg % down when you use the spa (which, since you normally have constant spillover, I think is of less risk than having the spa get none other than what comes back thru pool mixing)

 

[Sn00py]

In your system without automation, you'll just want to remember to turn the swg % down when you use the spa (which, since you normally have constant spillover, I think is of less risk than having the spa get none other than what comes back thru pool mixing)

...we use it never or maybe once or twice a year..so should be good then

One more question.... installation is scheduled for this Friday or Saturday....is it ok if I start dumping salt into the pool starting tomorrow and keep chlorine levels using liquid chlorine?
Target level is 3500ppm, getting Taylor kit tomorrow to check the current salt level.

Thank you so much!

 

[Ahultin]

.is it ok if I start dumping salt into the pool starting tomorrow and keep chlorine levels using liquid chlorine?
Target level is 3500ppm, getting Taylor kit tomorrow to check the current salt level

So long as you test salinity first, absolutely

 

[Sn00py]

Should I aim to 3,000 or 3,500 as is per RJ60 manual?

 

[Ahultin]

I would start at 3000 until you have the swg installed and can see what it reads

 

[Sn00py]

The system is installed, and operational with no leaks I had to reuse manual isolation valves and keep 90 elbows to solar because I couldn't get 2.5in couplings anywhere. Maybe I will redo that part later. Also had to add 2x90 on return after the cell because there was not enough space for the solar bypass. Either way, there is no difference in a flow (70gal/min at 1900 rpm)

What can I use to paint elbows black?

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Looks nice! If you have room, rotate the cell so the hump (and cord) is down. This is recommended in the manual for VS pumps running at lower speeds. It helps keep the cell free of gas build up that expose the plates.