Revisiting construction sequence

[RHinSantaRosa]

Owner build in progress, Gunite is in place and walls have had 2 coat spray of Aquaron CPSP so it's time for coping and tile.

Revisiting several threads here, it isn't clear which comes first, and why. I am using precast concrete coping, but considered and priced cast-in-place cantilevered concrete and most of those contractors insisted on doing the coping first (so they could screw form boards to the inside of the shell , then cover up the holes with patch concrete, waterproofing and finally tile.

I now have the option of doing tile first, or setting the coping stones first and tiling later. Does it matter, and if so, why? Much appreciate the input.

Thanks!
Rob

 

[ajw22]

Construction Best Practices - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

The consensus seems to be to do tile, then coping then deck although it can vary with the shape, materials, and contractor preference.

Simple logic is you always build from the bottom up not the top down. In a pool you want the tile to set perfectly level so the water line looks correct all the way around the pool. If the coping is set unlevel then they need to adjust the tile and the seam in between the tile and coping will not be uniform and basically throw the whole tile install off.

It can be done either way.

Let's see what @AQUA~HOLICS @MAPR-Austin thinks.

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

Have never personally seen the tile installed first. All the jobs I’ve been on, coping forms are set with a laser transit and set from the highest point of the BB. Then checked numerous times before the pouring of concrete.
A key point is that coping or tile needs to checked for level numerous times during the process in order insure it’s being maintained.

 

[RHinSantaRosa]

That's what the pool builders around here (northern California) say too - so maybe it's a regional choice? We've used both a rotary and green line laser to shoot the bond beams, and they're all flat to within an eighth. Planning to use high strength mortar with a bonding adhesive to put the precast coping stones in place, with ~1/4" of mortar to manage the highs and lows. Then mortar bed/waterproofing/tile using Latticrete 254, with epoxy grout between the coping and the top of the tile. What else should I be considering or concerned about? Again, input and experience much appreciated.

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

Yes, I think it’s a regional/geographic cho of doing things.
Would be more comfortable commenting on your specific project if you would provide some pictures of its current status.

 

[RHinSantaRosa]

Haven't actually taken very many pix, been too busy doing the work. Here's one that shows most of it.

 

[RHinSantaRosa]

Since this was posted, forms and rebound have been removed and cleaned up, and Aquaron CPSP sprayed on. Precast concrete coping will be here in a week. Based on the Latticrete drawings, next steps for tile are to float a +/- 1/4" mortar bed for the waterline tile (still trying to figure out the best material to use for this job), apply a thin coat of cementitious waterproofing to the mortar bed (Hydroban? Basecrete?) then lay the tiles using Latticrete 254.

I should probably do the tile work next week since the coping isn't here yet...

 

[ajw22]

What type of tile are you using?

Here is the recommended glass tile installation process from Oceanside Glass & Tile...

Installation Guidelines

Oceanside Glass & Tile

www.glasstile.com

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0429/0022/6199/files/OGT-Pool-Water-Feature-Installation.pdf?v=1625588595

 

[RHinSantaRosa]

A very simple pool-rated monochromatic porcelain 6"x24", the goal is to end up with a 50's-ish or even Fountainhead modern esthetic, because the view on the other side of the negative edge is the star of the show.

 

[RHinSantaRosa]

I had forgotten about that Ocean Glass listing, it's quite helpful. I had been considering Latticrete 3701 for the mid bed, and it's on their list so I might as well use it to be assured of compatibility with the 254.

We will be using Wet Edge Primera Stone Basalt as the finish.

Curious if anyone knows why the Hydroban, Redgard and the others are only listed for full tile coverage use? Would love to use Hydroban as the secondary under the waterline tile.