- Mar 25, 2015
- 53
- Pool Size
- 8700
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
For the newbie, some terminology discussion to simplify things.
1. Niche lights. A manufacturer specific fitting (holder) is installed in the pool that matches the light and secures it in place. In the case of the Pentair GloBrites, the niche is at the back of the light where the electrical cable enters the housing. Changing out the light holder is cost prohibitive as it is permanently in place cast into the concrete. My understanding is adapters exist that allow newer lights with different fittings to fit in the old holders, but those adapters may only be for adapting same manufacturer, not between competitors.
2. Nicheless. No manufacturer specific holder or fitting. In the case of the Jandy nicheless lights that I used, they have regular threads at the front of the light.
3. Retrofit. Add a component or accessory to something that did not have it when manufactured. In this case, the Jandy lights have threads. The GloBrite holders do not have threads. However, as luck would have it, the threads on the Jandy lights "bite" the GloBrite holders and "thread" just enough to hold them in place.
4. Gamble. An enterprise undertaken or attempted with a risk of loss and a chance of profit or success.
Some pics. Pretty straight forward. The quote from the pool builder was $3000.00 to replace three GloBrite lights, parts and labor included.
I sourced online. $1861.45 for three Jandy JLU4C12W100P lights. $65.93 Southwire FTSP45-125NCT electrical fish tape.
Stuff worth mentioning...
1. Install the Cosmetic Cover on the light before installing. I tried after installing, but the light was too recessed.
2. Pull the wire all the way so the light is in the holder as far as it will go, then thread the light into the holder.
3. Don't overtighten. One full turn is about all you get with Cosmetic Cover installed.
4. It's a friction fit, not a true threaded fit.
5. Pull the wire tight at the junction box. Don't go crazy. Just pull and keep a little tension at the electrical box and install the strain relief clamp. The reason for this is "just in case", to add a little extra security and insure the light stays in place since it's not a true thread-to-thread fit.
Thanks for the help TFP.
1. Niche lights. A manufacturer specific fitting (holder) is installed in the pool that matches the light and secures it in place. In the case of the Pentair GloBrites, the niche is at the back of the light where the electrical cable enters the housing. Changing out the light holder is cost prohibitive as it is permanently in place cast into the concrete. My understanding is adapters exist that allow newer lights with different fittings to fit in the old holders, but those adapters may only be for adapting same manufacturer, not between competitors.
2. Nicheless. No manufacturer specific holder or fitting. In the case of the Jandy nicheless lights that I used, they have regular threads at the front of the light.
3. Retrofit. Add a component or accessory to something that did not have it when manufactured. In this case, the Jandy lights have threads. The GloBrite holders do not have threads. However, as luck would have it, the threads on the Jandy lights "bite" the GloBrite holders and "thread" just enough to hold them in place.
4. Gamble. An enterprise undertaken or attempted with a risk of loss and a chance of profit or success.
Some pics. Pretty straight forward. The quote from the pool builder was $3000.00 to replace three GloBrite lights, parts and labor included.
I sourced online. $1861.45 for three Jandy JLU4C12W100P lights. $65.93 Southwire FTSP45-125NCT electrical fish tape.
Stuff worth mentioning...
1. Install the Cosmetic Cover on the light before installing. I tried after installing, but the light was too recessed.
2. Pull the wire all the way so the light is in the holder as far as it will go, then thread the light into the holder.
3. Don't overtighten. One full turn is about all you get with Cosmetic Cover installed.
4. It's a friction fit, not a true threaded fit.
5. Pull the wire tight at the junction box. Don't go crazy. Just pull and keep a little tension at the electrical box and install the strain relief clamp. The reason for this is "just in case", to add a little extra security and insure the light stays in place since it's not a true thread-to-thread fit.
Thanks for the help TFP.
