Replacing water in above ground pool
- Thread starter PamKern
- Start date
I have had a pool party scheduled for a month and it is coming up on Friday. The pool seems to be staying at cloudy blue green. The filter has been cleaned and is working, the FC is at shock level and I am adding bleach each day. All else is good according to pool calculator. I have stabilizer in a sock in the skimmer. Vacuumed to waste again yesterday and brushed the sides. There is no discernible debris anywhere. The liner feels clean. I think I may have to cancel my party if the pool doesn't start looking any better. Is flocculent a waste of time at this point? Patience as an option is running out. The pool is better than it has been all season but I doubt my guests will want to swim in it as is. Add flocculent or not?
I know you mentioned that you went a few days without loss of chlorine or adding chlorine...which we responded and said there must be something wrong, since that is virtually impossible with an outdoor pool.
Have you repeated the OCLT test with a FAS-DPD chlorine test?
You stated:
Can you describe how you do the Chlorine test? Do you add a powder?
Have you repeated the OCLT test with a FAS-DPD chlorine test?
You stated:
I have yet to hear someone buy the Leslie's kit and get a K-2006, everytime that I can remember it is actually the K-2005 kit which has a DPD chlorine test and not the FAS-DPD chlorine test. If you only have the DPD test then it is difficult to do the OCLT properly.PamKern said:
Can you describe how you do the Chlorine test? Do you add a powder?
Leslie's FAS DPD service test kit is the one recommended on this site in the test kit comparison as the same only packaged as Leslie's. It has powder. I have not gone 24 hours without adding chlorine. I just skipped one morning when the pool was holding steady.
I have been adding bleach morning and evening according to the pool calc.
I am sure the algae is dead as the water is very cloudy, not swampy.
My question now is about flocculent. Should I try it if I need to get the pool clear by Friday?
I have been adding bleach morning and evening according to the pool calc.
I am sure the algae is dead as the water is very cloudy, not swampy.
My question now is about flocculent. Should I try it if I need to get the pool clear by Friday?
Good, just wanted to check since it has confused folks in the past.PamKern said:
Water color or swampy not swampy looking is not a good determination for being algae free. The best determinate is to do the OCLT. You said that you passed, but your statement about not needing to put chlorine in:PamKern said:
has thrown me and others off. Have you, or have you not done the OCLT test procedure following it to the letter?PamKern said:
If your pool is truly algae free...i.e. consistently a OCLT of less than 1 ppm when testing after adding chlorine( and after letting the pump run for at least an hour) in the evening, then retesting in the morning before adding any more chlorine...AND your CC levels have consistently stayed below 0.5 ppm...THEN we are talking about a filtering issue where a clarifiers/flocculents might help. Clarifiers/Flocculents are not useful (they can be counterproductive) until the algae is dead
I went through this early this Spring because I took my cover off too early. Sheer stupidity on my part.
All this talk about test kits and all that jazz are fine but I didn't go that route. I simply use strips and a lot of people will kick my butt for that but you know what? It works for me. You're good to have ordered it. Anyway, here's what I did.
I shocked the bejesus out of it until it wasn't green anymore. I kept adding it and adding it until the green was gone. Once the green water is gone it will be cloudy. At that point all you have to do is keep the chlorine at the recommended levels and run that filter 24/7. Make sure you are back-washing the filter once a day until it is running clear!
It's really that easy. This all assumes your alkaline and PH levels are correct. It takes a bit but it's worth it. My pool is now crystal clear and has been since May.
As far as removing water, I always drain mine down to the low incoming hose level every fall. I've never had a CYA issue and I have an auto-chlorinator.
Good luck! Don't give up!
All this talk about test kits and all that jazz are fine but I didn't go that route. I simply use strips and a lot of people will kick my butt for that but you know what? It works for me. You're good to have ordered it. Anyway, here's what I did.
I shocked the bejesus out of it until it wasn't green anymore. I kept adding it and adding it until the green was gone. Once the green water is gone it will be cloudy. At that point all you have to do is keep the chlorine at the recommended levels and run that filter 24/7. Make sure you are back-washing the filter once a day until it is running clear!
It's really that easy. This all assumes your alkaline and PH levels are correct. It takes a bit but it's worth it. My pool is now crystal clear and has been since May.
As far as removing water, I always drain mine down to the low incoming hose level every fall. I've never had a CYA issue and I have an auto-chlorinator.
Good luck! Don't give up!
I know this thread is not about test strips, and the OP has a proper kit. But I really can't let the post above go. I feel this needs to be said right here and now.
Shooting from the hip with your pool may work for a while, it even might work for a long while. But that's not what TFP is about, nor is it any part of the recommended protocols to have a crystal clear sparkling clean pool for people to use.
It's not helpful to post about shooting from the hip and dumping in unknown quantities of powder shock product when someone wants to deal with an algae bloom and cloudy water. Those here who are trying to help the OP are doing so out of the goodness of their heart, taking valuable time away from whatever else might need to be done in life... having often been through the experience of shooting from the hip and not being successful at it. We know what works every time if done properly and have taken the time to try to help the OP. Making statements that one doesn't actually need to do what we say in the middle of a thread is not helpful at all. It sounds like the OP tried shooting from the hip already, and clearly that did not work. They spent $1000 and never saw a clear pool, and can't use it. Time to follow TFP recommendations and swim already this summer.
I shot from the hip with strips for 4 years of pools before I found TFP. No, my pool wasn't green and swampy, no it wasn't cloudy all the time, nor was it unpleasant to swim in. But it was NOTHING like the pool I have after using a proper test kit and maintaining it the BBB way and the chemicals we used all the time to adjust this, or that... based on strip results have sat in the garage unused for 3 seasons now. We were always finding it too low or too high on this or that, would adjust with the chems only to have to adjust again the next day. It was EXHAUSTING. And that's just the work part. The difference in water quality is clearly noticeable once you experience it, and until it's experienced first hand anything less does seem "just fine".
It's similar to the difference in clarity in diamonds. All diamonds are pretty, they usually sparkle. But a quality diamond, once you get down close to it to see... well, there's a reason the better diamonds cost more.
At TFP we advocate testing with a proper test kit, dosing with bleach to the maximum for the CYA level daily, and shocking if needed at appropriate chlorine levels until the three criteria are met. This includes testing for combined chlorine. Strips not only don't allow for this essential test, they give absolutely unreliable for results. I've tested with fresh strips side by side with a quality test kit and the variances are far too wide to ever think I could adjust the levels based on strip results. The worst test on a strip is the CYA. I've seen a strip tell me I've got 30ppm CYA in tap water and 50ppm CH in the same tap water that is actually 2ppm CH.
Shooting from the hip with your pool may work for a while, it even might work for a long while. But that's not what TFP is about, nor is it any part of the recommended protocols to have a crystal clear sparkling clean pool for people to use.
It's not helpful to post about shooting from the hip and dumping in unknown quantities of powder shock product when someone wants to deal with an algae bloom and cloudy water. Those here who are trying to help the OP are doing so out of the goodness of their heart, taking valuable time away from whatever else might need to be done in life... having often been through the experience of shooting from the hip and not being successful at it. We know what works every time if done properly and have taken the time to try to help the OP. Making statements that one doesn't actually need to do what we say in the middle of a thread is not helpful at all. It sounds like the OP tried shooting from the hip already, and clearly that did not work. They spent $1000 and never saw a clear pool, and can't use it. Time to follow TFP recommendations and swim already this summer.
I shot from the hip with strips for 4 years of pools before I found TFP. No, my pool wasn't green and swampy, no it wasn't cloudy all the time, nor was it unpleasant to swim in. But it was NOTHING like the pool I have after using a proper test kit and maintaining it the BBB way and the chemicals we used all the time to adjust this, or that... based on strip results have sat in the garage unused for 3 seasons now. We were always finding it too low or too high on this or that, would adjust with the chems only to have to adjust again the next day. It was EXHAUSTING. And that's just the work part. The difference in water quality is clearly noticeable once you experience it, and until it's experienced first hand anything less does seem "just fine".
It's similar to the difference in clarity in diamonds. All diamonds are pretty, they usually sparkle. But a quality diamond, once you get down close to it to see... well, there's a reason the better diamonds cost more.
At TFP we advocate testing with a proper test kit, dosing with bleach to the maximum for the CYA level daily, and shocking if needed at appropriate chlorine levels until the three criteria are met. This includes testing for combined chlorine. Strips not only don't allow for this essential test, they give absolutely unreliable for results. I've tested with fresh strips side by side with a quality test kit and the variances are far too wide to ever think I could adjust the levels based on strip results. The worst test on a strip is the CYA. I've seen a strip tell me I've got 30ppm CYA in tap water and 50ppm CH in the same tap water that is actually 2ppm CH.
Ok, just got home and tested the water again. Have not added chlorine yet this evening. Shocking everyday. Filter always running. Back washing. Vacuuming to waste and brushing.
FC 13.5 ppm
CC 1ppm
PH 7.5
TA 200
TH 320
CYA 35
Water looks pretty much the same blue green and cloudy.
I did notice when testing this time that all the chemicals in my Leslie's kit say Taylor on the bottles. It just says Leslie's on the box.
I do have the R0870 powder the R00871 fas-dpd titrating reagent and the R 0003 reagent in the kit I have and have been using them. The Free chlorine dropped .5 ppm from last night to this evening. It has been 100 degrees here.
FC 13.5 ppm
CC 1ppm
PH 7.5
TA 200
TH 320
CYA 35
Water looks pretty much the same blue green and cloudy.
I did notice when testing this time that all the chemicals in my Leslie's kit say Taylor on the bottles. It just says Leslie's on the box.
I do have the R0870 powder the R00871 fas-dpd titrating reagent and the R 0003 reagent in the kit I have and have been using them. The Free chlorine dropped .5 ppm from last night to this evening. It has been 100 degrees here.
You are getting closer... your CC still greater than 0.5 and the water is not clear. Keep your CL at shock level or higher. I would test again later tonight if you can, I am west coast so it's still afternoon here.
Just focus on your FC and CC levels. No need to test anything else until you get near the end of the shock process. pH readings with FC over 10 ppm are not very reliable.
How are your filter pressures?
Just focus on your FC and CC levels. No need to test anything else until you get near the end of the shock process. pH readings with FC over 10 ppm are not very reliable.
How are your filter pressures?
Filter has been staying at 10 psi. New gauge new zeobrite. Didn't want to leave anything to chance. Back washing twice a day.
In you case, I have heard that leaving a sand filter to get a little dirty is OK. Also some add DE to improve performance and clear the water fast. There is a chapter in the Pool School about it.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/add_de_to_a_sand_filter
http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/add_de_to_a_sand_filter
In your a case, a slightly dirty filter will work better that a clean one at trapping the debris. Like Linen said, only backwash after your pressure rise 25% over the clean pressure.
So, if your clean pressure is 10 PSI, only backwash when you get over 12 PSI.
So, if your clean pressure is 10 PSI, only backwash when you get over 12 PSI.
Last night at 10 pm
(shocked at about 9:30 pm)
FC 14.5
CC .5
This morning 6:30 am
FC 16
CC 0
Can free chlorine go up?
I tested last night after only waiting a half hour after shocking. Is that why the FC is higher than last night?
Anyway, hubs thinks the pool looks bluer. I think I have become color blind to it after staring at it for so long.
I will wait until the sun hits it to see how I think it looks.
The FC results are encouraging.
(shocked at about 9:30 pm)
FC 14.5
CC .5
This morning 6:30 am
FC 16
CC 0
Can free chlorine go up?
I tested last night after only waiting a half hour after shocking. Is that why the FC is higher than last night?
Anyway, hubs thinks the pool looks bluer. I think I have become color blind to it after staring at it for so long.
I will wait until the sun hits it to see how I think it looks.
The FC results are encouraging.
Hi again PamKern, 
In your earlier post you stated 35 CYA in your pool water testing. Because CYA testing error is a +/- 10ppm accuracy, I would go by this Chlorine/CYA chart for a shock of CYA of 40 and use 16ppm chlorine as your shock number as minimum. As you can see from what you have tested and posted, your NOT keeping at or above your shock value.
When your shock chlorine numbers are low, it has been my experience that the shocking job can take longer to finish the shocking process. It doesn't really hurt you if you were to go a ppm or 2 higher when adding chlorine and maybe shorter times between testing and chlorine additions.
It doesn't look good to me when I see your test numbers below shock value.
Hang in there! You'll be suffering from Sparklypoolitis very soon!
Chuck
In your earlier post you stated 35 CYA in your pool water testing. Because CYA testing error is a +/- 10ppm accuracy, I would go by this Chlorine/CYA chart for a shock of CYA of 40 and use 16ppm chlorine as your shock number as minimum. As you can see from what you have tested and posted, your NOT keeping at or above your shock value.
When your shock chlorine numbers are low, it has been my experience that the shocking job can take longer to finish the shocking process. It doesn't really hurt you if you were to go a ppm or 2 higher when adding chlorine and maybe shorter times between testing and chlorine additions.
It doesn't look good to me when I see your test numbers below shock value.
Hang in there! You'll be suffering from Sparklypoolitis very soon!
Chuck
Ok shocked again at 9:30 am tested at 10:30 am.
FC 19.5
CC .5
Should I add more bleach or test later?
Thanks for all the advice. I feel I am getting somewhere.
FC 19.5
CC .5
Should I add more bleach or test later?
Thanks for all the advice. I feel I am getting somewhere.
I would wait since you shock FC level is 14 (for 35 ppm cya)...let it drop down around there before redosing.
My guess is you didn't give the evening chlorien long enough to mix in the pool before testing. My method is to circulate for at least an hour before testing, which works for most pools....but each pool can be a bit different.PamKern said:
I am getting conflicting advice. My level this morning was 16 before shocking. I was advised to raise it higher because that was the minimum shock level. It is now at 19.5 ppm. Super tune says 16 is too low. Linen says let it drop to 14. I don't want to waste the bleach or my test chems but not sure which direction to go.
Supertunes suggestion was based on a CYA of 40 and linen's suggestion was based on CYA of 35. Since the CYA changes your shock level, they are Both correct. I would go with the higher ppm until you get rid of the CC and the water is clear.