Replacing frozen valves and plumbing

[spthomas]

Not that I'm slow at doing things, but when everything here froze in 2021, my pool was damaged. Several fittings broke, several Jandy Neverlube valves cracked, the chlorinator broke, and basically the pool was spurting like a fountain when the power went out at 0 degrees outside at 2am, so by the time I noticed about 5am it was all over but the crying. I initially couldn't get anyone to come out, since everyone was swamped, so I bought parts and was going to fix it myself. But I figure out that if I returned all the water to the hottub, and let it spillover into the pool, and then used the pool returns and skimmers to return water, I could bypass the broken parts. So it sat. For 2 years. Now another cracked valve has started leaking, and I have to finally fix this. But I've had two different companies ghost me, so I may be back to fixing it myself. Hence my questions.

1. I have glued pvc a bit on different projects, always straight sections where I can glue, push together, twist, hold, and done. But several places, especially 2 of these Jandy valves, are 3 way. So no way to twist the pipe three ways. So is there any tip for how to make sure the glue is spread if you can't twist it?
2. Is it better to just glue the actual segments of pipe directly into the valve, or do something like glue short sections into the valve individually, then join these short sections to the equipment with couplings (so if those joints leak I could cut them out and try again and nut ruin the valve).

Any other tips? I'm going to replace 4 Jandy valves, a chlorinator, and a lot of pipe!

Steve

 

[ajw22]

Post pics of your equipment pad and the 4 valves and chlorinator you need to work on.

Sometimes there is a union that can crate a segment of a pipe you can twist. Other times you need to use liberal amounts of primer then glue and shove the pipe straight in.

I would not use more couplings then necessary.

PVC Repair - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[spthomas]

These are mostly what needs replacing, along with a couple of straight sections of pipe. The first picture is where I capped off where the broken chlorniator was, I capped it off and will need to replace the cracked pipe there. The three-way up top in the second picture is the main diverter that is sending water to the hot tub to the left, but the right side has several broken spots so I'll need to replace most everything on that side of that valve. The 3rd photo shows one 2-way valve that needs replacing, and the pipe section next to it had a 2-way valve I already took out so I'll add back a 2-way there. The last picture is a straight section with 2 Ts and a check valve that is cracked.

 

[proavia]

Post a few pics of the entire pad in the same picture from a few different angles so we get a better idea of your layout.

It may be easier to to cut it all out and start fresh.
Plan on painting all the PVC pipe once you are done.
Since you have a heater, plan on installing a proper heater bypass.
If there is anything about your pad layout you don't like, now is the time to change it.

 

[Bperry]

Not that I'm slow at doing things, but when everything here froze in 2021, my pool was damaged. Several fittings broke, several Jandy Neverlube valves cracked, the chlorinator broke, and basically the pool was spurting like a fountain when the power went out at 0 degrees outside at 2am, so by the time I noticed about 5am it was all over but the crying. I initially couldn't get anyone to come out, since everyone was swamped, so I bought parts and was going to fix it myself. But I figure out that if I returned all the water to the hottub, and let it spillover into the pool, and then used the pool returns and skimmers to return water, I could bypass the broken parts. So it sat. For 2 years. Now another cracked valve has started leaking, and I have to finally fix this. But I've had two different companies ghost me, so I may be back to fixing it myself. Hence my questions.

1. I have glued pvc a bit on different projects, always straight sections where I can glue, push together, twist, hold, and done. But several places, especially 2 of these Jandy valves, are 3 way. So no way to twist the pipe three ways. So is there any tip for how to make sure the glue is spread if you can't twist it?
2. Is it better to just glue the actual segments of pipe directly into the valve, or do something like glue short sections into the valve individually, then join these short sections to the equipment with couplings (so if those joints leak I could cut them out and try again and nut ruin the valve).

Any other tips? I'm going to replace 4 Jandy valves, a chlorinator, and a lot of pipe!

Steve

Don’t worry about twisting the pipe in the fitting. It’s always good to do that but it’s not a deal breaker if you can’t and will work fine if you apply cement to both sides of the fitting.

 

[mas985]

These are mostly what needs replacing, along with a couple of straight sections of pipe. The first picture is where I capped off where the broken chlorniator was, I capped it off and will need to replace the cracked pipe there. The three-way up top in the second picture is the main diverter that is sending water to the hot tub to the left, but the right side has several broken spots so I'll need to replace most everything on that side of that valve. The 3rd photo shows one 2-way valve that needs replacing, and the pipe section next to it had a 2-way valve I already took out so I'll add back a 2-way there. The last picture is a straight section with 2 Ts and a check valve that is cracked.

It is interesting to note that most of the damage was near a closed valve of some sort. Freezing does not always cause damage as long as there is room for the ice to expand. Going forward, one thing you might consider is to adjust the valves so that they leave a path for expansion in all directions during freezing conditions. This is necessary when you don't have automation to automatically change the valve positions.

 

[Poolbreh]

Is your swg before the heater?

 

[spthomas]

It is interesting to note that most of the damage was near a closed valve of some sort. Freezing does not always cause damage as long as there is room for the ice to expand. Going forward, one thing you might consider is to adjust the valves so that they leave a path for expansion in all directions during freezing conditions. This is necessary when you don't have automation to automatically change the valve positions.

Good point. In all the years we've had the pool it was never a problem, because the freeze guard always kept the pool running. But on the night it was coldest (-1 f) the power was out at 2am. If it had been earlier or morning I'd have known it and could have manually drained the system. And if we'd have had power automation or the freeze guard would work. But that night, in the middle of the night, it just all happened at once, and by 5am when I noticed the power was out it was already done!

 

[spthomas]

Is your swg before the heater?

Yes.

 

[spthomas]

Post a few pics of the entire pad in the same picture from a few different angles so we get a better idea of your layout.

It may be easier to to cut it all out and start fresh.
Plan on painting all the PVC pipe once you are done.
Since you have a heater, plan on installing a proper heater bypass.
If there is anything about your pad layout you don't like, now is the time to change it.

Here's a photo of the entire pad. And what is a heater bypass?

 

[proavia]

Heater Bypass - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Poolbreh]

Put the swg on the return side of the heater. Like mentioned above I would cut from the ground up and redo the whole return side. Level all the pipes and work back towards the heater. You can use the heater union to complete the final piece. Doing a heater bypass is worth it but it will make the job more difficult. Whenever you plumb you always have the end piece in mind.