Looking to order the 342001 in place of the 011018
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Replacing Failed Single Speed Pump
- Thread starter teamhurtado
- Start date
The 342001 will run on 110v or 220v. You will be fine to just wire the new pump same as the old pump. There should be an insulated (green) ground and a bare copper bonding wire. More here, Pool School - Bonding vs Grounding
- Jun 13, 2013
- 224
X2 above. I was trying to get a 342001 when I was trying to avoid rewiring to 220, but I was lucky and had an unused 220v circuit in my basement (for an electric dryer we had replaced with a gas dryer ages ago) that I was able to easily repurpose for pool pump instead.
Yeah its been ordered. We'll try again Wednesday!
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That's a great pump choice, you will be happy with it. I run my VS pump at 1100 rpm for skimming and making chlorine and it only uses 150 watts which costs less than 12 bucks per month running 24x7.
I have a similar question to the original post. Should I start a new thread or continue on this one?
- Jun 13, 2013
- 224
Went from being an easy swap to...
First question. How bad is it if I place the pump on some stands? Sloppy I know.
If I'm going to re-pipe, might as well do it well.
I thought the system was on 2 inch PVC but apparently its 1.5 into the pump and 2 going out to the filter.
Thoughts? Pictures? Suspect this will take a good half day or so to replace. If we're talking about breaking concrete, at that point I think professional help would be in order?
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First question. How bad is it if I place the pump on some stands? Sloppy I know.
If I'm going to re-pipe, might as well do it well.
I thought the system was on 2 inch PVC but apparently its 1.5 into the pump and 2 going out to the filter.
Thoughts? Pictures? Suspect this will take a good half day or so to replace. If we're talking about breaking concrete, at that point I think professional help would be in order?
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How low are you? I'd use a patio paver to get the height then plumb the out put. No need to create more work.
I used a patio paver to bring the pump up but I'm still a bit short. Probably need to cut a patio paver in half to get an extra half inch of height. I could go find a 1.5 inch paver if that's the route to go. I wasn't sure how frowned upon it was to use shims under a pool pump.
Just support so it doesn't stress the piping. What about scrap 2x6 board, or bricks turned on side.
Actually, I have some spare bullnose coping from our pool remodel that might work. I'll try that tomorrow before the kids are home.
One other option would be a piece of rubber mat like a antifatigue type. It would have the added benefit of dampening any noise from vibration.
- Jun 13, 2013
- 224
A patio slab and a chunk of rubber would probably work well. Mitigating vibration (with the rubber) is also going to be helpful in making sure the pump is stable - if it wants to vibrate and move just sitting on a concrete slab (unless you drill it and actually mount the pump to it) it might end up pulling on the plumbing and possibly causing issues.
Plumbing the outlet should be straightforward with some new piping and a new coupler.
Before you wire things up I'd go ahead and bypass the old timer circuit as well - you won't need it anymore anyways, and honestly I wouldn't trust the old (probably dirty and corroded) contacts in there to switch cleanly...and VS pump circuitry are sensitive beasts, you don't want to be feeding them dirty power.
Plumbing the outlet should be straightforward with some new piping and a new coupler.
Before you wire things up I'd go ahead and bypass the old timer circuit as well - you won't need it anymore anyways, and honestly I wouldn't trust the old (probably dirty and corroded) contacts in there to switch cleanly...and VS pump circuitry are sensitive beasts, you don't want to be feeding them dirty power.
Bullnose coping and a few minutes of fitting later...
Any recommendations before I glue? Thanks for the help all!
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Any recommendations before I glue? Thanks for the help all!
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- Jun 13, 2013
- 224
I'd try to get it on something more secure for the height issue. That will vibrate when it's running and the pump will put stress on the plumbing as that'll be what's more or less holding it in place at that point.
How close is the back of the motor to your house? Unlike your old motor, the VS motor has vent holes in the back of the motor where heated air from the motor exits. Be sure you have enough clearance in the back of the motor to let the air circulate or you might have overheating problems.
The manual for this pump says 3" from the back the motor to the house for ventilation. If youre not in a blazing hot part of the country it might not be an issue, but here in CA it would be pretty rough on the motor.
Is it pretty? Not really. But I had to redo some of the plumbing. Had minor issues with electrical. Biggest pain in the you know what. But it's currently priming with no leaks. I'm calling this a success. Thanks all!
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