My diving board anchor bolts are horribly rusted. I've found that my local fastenal has 1/2" anchor wedge bolts with a pull out strength of 4,400 pounds each. That seems sufficient, so what do you think about it as an option?
Replacing Diving board anchor bolts - Are SS wedge bolts a good option?
- Thread starter mikeingeorgia
- Start date
Being that a failure could really hurt someone, I do not think anyone at TFP would recommend anything outside the manufactures recommendations. Perhaps contact them and ask.
What does the manufacturer recommend? I've never looked into what mounts a diving board. The wedge bolts are only going to be as strong as your concrete. For the first little while they will continue to tighten everytime someone uses the diving board. The wedge action could create enough pressure to actually split your concrete. Have you looked into the epoxy style anchors? I have used them for other things and they hold tight once set..
Yep, call the manufacturer and see what they say. Don't know why you feel that is some impossible dream, they probably have a phone number and someone to answer it and everything. This advice is my own and 100% not affiliated with the owner of the website, since that seems to be important to you.
- Feb 6, 2015
- 6,096
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I don't think the member who first responded is representing the owner of the website - even if he is a moderator on this forum. Pretty much any member is going to recommend the safest way to tackle your project.
Honestly, I wouldn't take a chance on anything outside of the manufacturers recommendations. While those wedge bolts may have a pull out strength of 4400 pounds, they may not hold in the concrete or other substance they are installed in. Also, I doubt they were tested for the side loads that would be encountered from people jumping on and moving around on the diving board - especially over time.
There is a lot more load put on the mounting area due to the distance from it to the end of the board, the weight of the person using it and several other factors.
Another consideration - if someone were to get injured because of the failure of the wedge bolts or surrounding mounting area, your insurance company won't pay out because they aren't the approved installation method.
I'd lean toward contacting the manufacturer for their take on it. Also, talking with a local pool builder who installs diving boards may yield some other options.
I'll call them. Nothing personal to the moderators, however I know that there is always a tendency to stay away from potential liability. Sometimes a logical solution exists anyway. It is hard to believe that everyone just repours the slab considering that epoxy bolts are sold by inyo.
The other thing to ask the manufacturer is where does the bonding wire attach. If it uses the bolts you plan on replacing you will need to consider a way to include the bonding wire (which may be burried in the concrete).
Well... Surprisingly they just suggested using an epoxy kit to place new bolts. She said that the epoxy kits include instructions for bonding. However I'm not sure this really serves a purpose due to it being a fiberglass diving board.
I have not found any published data on the pull out strength of epoxy, so I'm not really feeling like I'm on a path to a best solution unfortunately.
- - - Updated - - -
Epoxy Kit | Swimming Pool Parts Accessories | S.R.Smith
I have not found any published data on the pull out strength of epoxy, so I'm not really feeling like I'm on a path to a best solution unfortunately.
- - - Updated - - -
Epoxy Kit | Swimming Pool Parts Accessories | S.R.Smith
Great to hear that they had a recommendation.
I would be much more comfortable with the epoxy bolts, especially as they are marketed for diving board installation, than I would for wedge bolts where this might be outside their design limits.
There may still be some concerns if the epoxy bolts are longer than your existing deck thickness ... although there should be a footer there already.
I would be much more comfortable with the epoxy bolts, especially as they are marketed for diving board installation, than I would for wedge bolts where this might be outside their design limits.
There may still be some concerns if the epoxy bolts are longer than your existing deck thickness ... although there should be a footer there already.
Interesting. The funny thing is that they charge $250 for 3 6 inch bolts and a $35 tube of simpson strong tie epoxy.
Wow, I agree that seems a bit excessive. Personally, I might be inclined to source some grade 8+ threaded rod myself if I could save that much.
That's what I'm looking at. They just weld a bead down one side to keep it from turning, which a local shop would probably do for a few bucks.
- Feb 6, 2015
- 6,096
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Wow - that does seem excessive. But I think you're on to something Mike. Maybe some high grade stainless steel threaded rod, washers and nuts. Take some pics of your progress and post them here.
As for the bonding with a fiberglass board, I think it might have something to do with water making contact via the deck - bathers and splashout can create a circuit between the metal of the board, the pool water and other surfaces. Again, best to be safe - and easier to do now while you are installing the new hardware.
As for the bonding with a fiberglass board, I think it might have something to do with water making contact via the deck - bathers and splashout can create a circuit between the metal of the board, the pool water and other surfaces. Again, best to be safe - and easier to do now while you are installing the new hardware.
Does the same concern exist about the circuit exist if the entire base is also fiberglass? The only metal is the 3 bolts into the ground and the two that hold the board to the base.
If it does, I'm thinking I can possibly weld a connection to one of the previous bolts, but that would require an additional drilled hole in the bottom of the base which I really wouldn't want if it's not necessary.
I'm thinking that their instructions for the epoxy kit don't say anything about bonding, but I don't know for sure.
If it does, I'm thinking I can possibly weld a connection to one of the previous bolts, but that would require an additional drilled hole in the bottom of the base which I really wouldn't want if it's not necessary.
I'm thinking that their instructions for the epoxy kit don't say anything about bonding, but I don't know for sure.
- Feb 6, 2015
- 6,096
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
That I don't know. But let me see if I can rustle up a member better versed in the NEC.
CJadamec
TFP Expert
If there is no metal core in the board and no metal in the base there is nothing to bond to. The bolts don't have enough surface to require bonding and they will be imbedded in the bonded concrete deck.
When i saw the $ for the kit, I ordered the simpson epoxy on line and got the ss bolts, nuts, and washers local . Cut the old studs off(not ss) with a grinder ,hammer drilled new holes a couple of inches back and epoxied the new studs in place. Did this a little over a year ago . So far no problems. My board and base are fiberglass, I did not add any bonding . If you did bond the three studs are not connected together with a jig anymore, would you need to run a bond to all three studs ?