Replacing a ball valve / manifold

[meow_at_the_pool]

Hi,

I've gone through multiple threads and figured out what I think I need to do, but I still have a couple of questions I wanted to ask help with.

I found out today after opening one of the ball valves for my pool fountain that it's leaking (red arrow in pic below). I can't see any water coming out of it when it's closed, but when I open it there's a steady stream. I need to replace it. The other two are OK (for now).
After reading through the other threads, I got the idea that I should replace all three ball valves with Jandy valves. I think I have enough basic skills to do that, but I don't want to start anything until I understand what I'm getting into.

1. The Jandy valve with the green allow doesn't allow to completely cut off the flow towards the fountains (right side of T). When all three blue ball valves are shut, the three fountains don't work. But the Jandy valve has a stop that prevents me from shutting off the right side completely. I don't understand why. Additionally, the Jandy valve "Inlet" port is the one at the bottom of the T, even though the water flows from the left of the picture. Is that the problem?
2. Other than shutting off the pump and closing off any valves that I can to prevent water from flowing into the manifold that I will be replacing, what else do I need to take care off?

 

[HermanTX]

The blue handle ball valves are notorious for leaking as they age. They are not repairable but only replacable which is why your decision to go with Jandy 2-way valve would be best.

With regard to the 3-way valve, it comes from the factory set with the inlet on the bottom of the Tee and then the valve rotates 180 degrees to either shut off the left or right side of the valve. The rotation can be modified which apparently was done by the installer to only allow 90 degree rotation since flow is coming from the left. It was also cammed to not fully close off the pipe to the right. This allows some flow to always go to that pipe and is used to mainly to create a flow to a spa to spillover to the pool even though the main flow is to the pool itself.

In your setup, is the vertical pipe flow to the pool? Are the 3 pipes with the ball valves flow to water features? Explain each.

You can adjust the cam in the valve to get a full 90 degree swing from the horizontal pipe to the right to the vertical pipe. So one can be completely shut off and the other full open if that is what you desire.

Tell us what and how the features are used that are controlled by the 3 ball valves and we can give better guidance.

 

[1poolman1]

Hi,

I've gone through multiple threads and figured out what I think I need to do, but I still have a couple of questions I wanted to ask help with.

I found out today after opening one of the ball valves for my pool fountain that it's leaking (red arrow in pic below). I can't see any water coming out of it when it's closed, but when I open it there's a steady stream. I need to replace it. The other two are OK (for now).
After reading through the other threads, I got the idea that I should replace all three ball valves with Jandy valves. I think I have enough basic skills to do that, but I don't want to start anything until I understand what I'm getting into.

1. The Jandy valve with the green allow doesn't allow to completely cut off the flow towards the fountains (right side of T). When all three blue ball valves are shut, the three fountains don't work. But the Jandy valve has a stop that prevents me from shutting off the right side completely. I don't understand why. Additionally, the Jandy valve "Inlet" port is the one at the bottom of the T, even though the water flows from the left of the picture. Is that the problem?
2. Other than shutting off the pump and closing off any valves that I can to prevent water from flowing into the manifold that I will be replacing, what else do I need to take care off?

View attachment 640623

Loosen the handle on that valve all the way (remove the knob/nut), lift the handle so that it is on the other side of the stops, as it should be, replace the knob/nut. You will then be able to completely shut that port.
It looks like the handle was placed that way so that the system could not be "dead headed" at that line.

 

[meow_at_the_pool]

The blue handle ball valves are notorious for leaking as they age. They are not repairable but only replacable which is why your decision to go with Jandy 2-way valve would be best.

With regard to the 3-way valve, it comes from the factory set with the inlet on the bottom of the Tee and then the valve rotates 180 degrees to either shut off the left or right side of the valve. The rotation can be modified which apparently was done by the installer to only allow 90 degree rotation since flow is coming from the left. It was also cammed to not fully close off the pipe to the right. This allows some flow to always go to that pipe and is used to mainly to create a flow to a spa to spillover to the pool even though the main flow is to the pool itself.

In your setup, is the vertical pipe flow to the pool? Are the 3 pipes with the ball valves flow to water features? Explain each.

You can adjust the cam in the valve to get a full 90 degree swing from the horizontal pipe to the right to the vertical pipe. So one can be completely shut off and the other full open if that is what you desire.

Tell us what and how the features are used that are controlled by the 3 ball valves and we can give better guidance.

The large vertical pipe at the bottom of 3-way Jandy valve goes to the pool return. The 3 small pipes coming out of the right side of the Jandy go to 3 individual fountains coming out of the side of the pool. Each ball valve controls one fountain. I keep them closed to minimize pH rise and only open for parties etc.

 

[meow_at_the_pool]

Loosen the handle on that valve all the way (remove the knob/nut), lift the handle so that it is on the other side of the stops, as it should be, replace the knob/nut. You will then be able to completely shut that port.
It looks like the handle was placed that way so that the system could not be "dead headed" at that line.

Right, but what would that be done? The ball valves control small water fountains (1 each) and are closed most of the time. I assume it's safe to close off that port completely at the Jandy.
Oh I just realized. This way the bottom (return) can't be dead headed either. That's likely the reason, right?

And sorry for the bad forum etiquette of posting two responses. I couldn't figure how to post one with two replies on mobile.

 

[HermanTX]

The large vertical pipe at the bottom of 3-way Jandy valve goes to the pool return. The 3 small pipes coming out of the right side of the Jandy go to 3 individual fountains coming out of the side of the pool. Each ball valve controls one fountain. I keep them closed to minimize pH rise and only open for parties etc.

There is no need to mess with the 3-way valve if you control the water features with the 3 individual valves.
If you change them out then use a Jandy 2-way valve. Just open or close as needed.

 

[1poolman1]

Right, but what would that be done? The ball valves control small water fountains (1 each) and are closed most of the time. I assume it's safe to close off that port completely at the Jandy.
Oh I just realized. This way the bottom (return) can't be dead headed either. That's likely the reason, right?

And sorry for the bad forum etiquette of posting two responses. I couldn't figure how to post one with two replies on mobile.

Sounded like you wanted to be able to shut the water to the manifold with the ball valves. You need to change the handle position to do that. Otherwise, yes it was put the way it is in the picture so as to lessen the possibility of deadheading the system. Installers do that regularly.