Removing a chlorinator

[Blivit79]

I have a Hayward cl200 chlorinator. I never really use it, it was there when we bought the house 9 years ago. The only time I do use it is if I am going out of town; I'll throw a few tablets in there so the pool doesn't turn green then rebalance once I come back. It started dripping from the top so I replaced the o-ring and noticed the housing is cracked. Rather than replace since I don't really use it, I am going to remove it.

This is what I have:

I just want to be sure I have what I need to get things going again since I'll have to shut things down to remove. I'd hate to cut something out and have to order parts and wait with a pump I can't turn on.

The white pipes going directly into the chlorinator on either side seem to be threaded into it. I can move the unit back and forth and it looks like there is an o-ring at each connection. However, the pipes connected to those ahead to be fused so I have no idea how this thing was threaded on if that is the case. The black connection on the left is coming out of my filter. Would I have to disconnect that but cut the other end going into the valve? Not much room on the valve end if I cut something. What would I then need on both ends to bridge the gap once the unit is removed?

 

[Texas Splash]

You might be able to unscrew the black union fitting from the filter, but I can't tell if the white adapter on the right is able to twist. If not, you'll have to cut it as close to the adapter as you can to leave enough room on that tiny remaining bit of pipe to glue something to it later at the 3-way valve. You might shop ahead for a new black filter bulkhead union anyway just to be safe.

Once you have the inline out of there, you need to decide if you want to try and replace that empty gap with a straight PVC with unions on each end, or perhaps get an SWG and do a vertical install room permitting.

Or take the opportunity to just re-do most of the pad now and give yourself more room work future work.

 

[Blivit79]

You might be able to unscrew the black union fitting from the filter, but I can't tell if the white adapter on the right is able to twist. If not, you'll have to cut it as close to the adapter as you can to leave enough room on that tiny remaining bit of pipe to glue something to it later at the 3-way valve. You might shop ahead for a new black filter bulkhead union anyway just to be safe.

Once you have the inline out of there, you need to decide if you want to try and replace that empty gap with a straight PVC with unions on each end, or perhaps get an SWG and do a vertical install room permitting.

Or take the opportunity to just re-do most of the pad now and give yourself more room work future work.

Thanks. I am pretty sure the white on the output side of the chlorinator threads into the unit but it's glued on the other side. Not 100% yet though. I'm hesitant to take anything apart until I'm ready to finish the work. For now, I think I will just replace with a straight pipe.