Reinstating a disabled SWG system - which unit, and can the old cell be retained?

[AtlasAirborne]

The previous owner of my pool (in sig) had a SWG system in place, but appears to have disabled it at some point.

Pictured below are all remaining components of the system.

If I understand correctly, I'd need at least a controller, and most likely a new cell as well.

Are there any go-to recommendations for DIY-install systems? Seems like there is a significant variance in cost between brands (Circupool Universal40 at 1100USD, Hayward AquaRite at 1500USD, etc). I won't use boost, just something to maintain regular FC (with bleach used for manual adjustment and SLAMing if necessary)

Can I assume the plumbing will be compatible between brands, or do I need to confirm sizing?

Current chemistry:

FC: 3ppm-8ppm
pH: seems to be rising pretty quickly, takes maybe 1wk to rise from 7.3 to 8.0
TA: 160ppm (I'm dropping pH to ~7.0 periodically with muriatic acid to try and reign this in, but haven't seen much change in the two cycles I've done so far)
CH: 260ppm (I am chlorinating with unstabilised CalHypo until this reaches 350ppm)
CYA: 48ppm (recently diluted from 210+ppm)

Current issues:

- Some black mold, which I'm planning to SLAM once my steel brush arrives. I imagine I'll want to sort this out prior to installing?

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

Your T-15 cell is manufactured in 2008 and I'd assume it's dead. If budget is an issue, you can get a generic T-15 replacement. But just know, you'll get what you paid for. Try to turn on the AC power to the controller and see if it works. The below link might help expand your knowledge about your SWCG.
And with regards to water chemistry, I'll leave that to others.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

 

[Oly]

For sure get the upper hand on your algae situation now that you have your CYA lowered and before you gear up for the salt conversion. In the mean time always keep your FC in or above your target range for your CYA FC/CYA Levels Use your test kit and try an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test while you prepare for a SLAM Process
You will need a salt test kit, the Taylor K-1766 to verify your current salt ppm before adding any salt as you move to the SWG transition. Good luck getting your old SWG system up and running, it might save you some $ if you only need a replacement cell. New SWG systems are pricey now but would get you up and running quickly when you are ready.

 

[wireform]

Don't bother doing OCLT because you have known algae/ mold. Supply yourself with some liquid chlorine a few gallons just to start with and be sure to know where you can run and grab more. Brush all and every nook and cranny to eradicate the mold. Consider your CYA as 50 and slam accordingly maintaining slam level as often as you can.

 

[AtlasAirborne]

Good luck getting your old SWG system up and running, it might save you some $ if you only need a replacement cell. New SWG systems are pricey now but would get you up and running quickly when you are ready.

Since there's no controller, I think there's no money to save after all. Are you saying that new SWG systems are particularly pricey at the moment because of COVID supply-chain stuff, or that they're just pricey in general?

Don't bother doing OCLT because you have known algae/ mold. Supply yourself with some liquid chlorine a few gallons just to start with and be sure to know where you can run and grab more. Brush all and every nook and cranny to eradicate the mold. Consider your CYA as 50 and slam accordingly maintaining slam level as often as you can.

At some point I'll need to OCLT to know that it's time to stop SLAMing, right?

Because I haven't moved in to the property yet and am only there every 1-2 days, I can't SLAM properly yet, so I've been keeping the FC at 4-8ppm (rec range) and usually boosting to 10-20ppm if I've just scrubbed or know I'm not going to be back for more than 24hrs.

I've been losing as much as 7ppm/day, sometimes less (4-5), so I assume it's eating up something. The black algae is already looking better and isn't re-forming the protective layer in most spots.

 

[Oly]

Prices have risen significantly in the last 8-10 months. The rapid rise in price of the plate coating metals, the imited availability of all chloinating products and the jump in pool ownership are the reasons.
Makes sense why you are not SLAMing the pool now so attempting to keep it from getting worse is where you are. I would do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test even though you know you have an algae population. Consider it practice for eventually confirming your SLAM is completed.

 

[AtlasAirborne]

Prices have risen significantly in the last 8-10 months. The rapid rise in price of the plate coating metals, the imited availability of all chloinating products and the jump in pool ownership are the reasons.
Makes sense why you are not SLAMing the pool now so attempting to keep it from getting worse is where you are. I would do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test even though you know you have an algae population. Consider it practice for eventually confirming your SLAM is completed.

Roger that - thanks for the help!

Guess I'll chuck some price alerts on Camelcamelcamel to see if I can save a few hundred bucks, and sort the algae in the meantime. Might get lucky and get rid of most of it by the time I can move in and do an OCLT easily.

 

[AtlasAirborne]

Got lucky and scored a like-new Circupool U40 on Amazon warehouse deals for 660USD. I was fully expecting for it to contain an old swapped-out cell but nope - it's brand spanking new.

Reckon that's about as good as it gets.