Received the TF-100 Test Kit today and it arrived hot to the touch? Should I be worried

[lastevns]

I received my TF-100 Test Kit today via USPS and I'm worried. When I opened the kit, all of the reagent bottles are hot (a little over 80 degrees according to a very superficial test of holding a thermometer to the bottles). I know it's summer and shipping during summer has its hazards. Should I be concerned about the results I get after reagents have been heated in shipping? Also, while I have a page (back and front) on how to do tests, is there a TF-100 Kit for Dummies here on the forums? Thanks!

 

[Newdude]

I would give them a bit to cool off. Maybe they cooked on the porch ?

is there a TF-100 Kit for Dummies

For dummies, written by one.
New to testing

 

[Mdragger88]

It should be ok - just use care with how they are stored from here on out, cool, dry, dark place etc.
here’s some videos of how to perform the tests

https://m.youtube.com/user/TF100TestKit/videos

 

[lastevns]

I would give them a bit to cool off. Maybe they cooked on the porch ?


For dummies, written by one.
New to testing

I LOVE the reply. Thank you so much. I actually took them from the USPS driver so all heat was in transit. It's hard to avoid heat this time of year. They have been cooling off since about 11 am, Pacific. So, hopefully they will work. Thanks again, for the Dummies guide. Going to read it now!

 

[Newdude]

OK so you're good and read up. Just like you saw, go one silly line at a time for each test and it couldn't be simpler.

I get each tests bottles ready, in order, uncapped to my left. I grab the next bottle and put it down to my right. I cap them afterwards and move onto the next round.

The CYA you need overhead sun. Put the sun behind you and the googely eye at your belt buckle. Lightning fast glance, yes or no. If you stare your brain will find it no matter what. We round up so only fill to the 10s. A 62 is a 70 anyway, so fill 60, then 70 if need be.

Follow the TA wiping instructions carefully. The bottle gets static charged in shipping and it messes up the drops for the first 5-10 tests. It reads abnormally high when messed up.

The other tests are pretty straightforward. Ask away with any questions.

 

[lastevns]

It should be ok - just use care with how they are stored from here on out, cool, dry, dark place etc.
here’s some videos of how to perform the tests

https://m.youtube.com/user/TF100TestKit/videos

oohhh... videos. Even better. Thx!

 

[lastevns]

OK so you're good and read up. Just like you saw, go one silly line at a time for each test and it couldn't be simpler.

I get each tests bottles ready, in order, uncapped to my left. I grab the next bottle and put it down to my right. I cap them afterwards and move onto the next round.

The CYA you need overhead sun. Put the sun behind you and the googely eye at your belt buckle. Lightning fast glance, yes or no. If you stare your brain will find it no matter what. We round up so only fill to the 10s. A 62 is a 70 anyway, so fill 60, then 70 if need be.

Follow the TA wiping instructions carefully. The bottle gets static charged in shipping and it messes up the drops for the first 5-10 tests. It reads abnormally high when messed up.

I didn't see any TA wiping instructions and I have come up with just ONE test reading ridiculously high. It's the TA test. Everything else seems within good range. So, for example:

CYA = about 50.5 (I added some yesterday -- about 4 ounces over many hours)
FC = 3
CC = .5 (not good but could be worse, I guess? I have to look this up)
I am questioning my chlorine levels because the OTO test (less accurate) reads at 5 chlorine while the FAS-DPD tells me it is 3.
TC (according to FAS-DPD) = 3.5
PH = 7.8

Then I get to TA and it took 22 drops of R0009 to stop the color getting any pinker. So, that would suggest:
TA=220 and the recommended for my 5,000 gallon AGP pool is 60-80.

Should I do this test a second time since it is so far out of range? You mention this can happen. But how many tests would I have to perform before I could trust the number?

The other tests are pretty straightforward. Ask away with any questions.

 

[Mdragger88]

Trust the fas dpd result
The oto is more of a “do i have any chlorine or not?” Kinda test.
If the cya dot disappeared between 50& 60 you round up & call it 60ppm & chlorinate to target fc accordingly FC/CYA Levels
So currently your fc is low- add enough liquid chlorine/bleach to reach the high target of 9ppm on the chart. Use PoolMath to determine how much that is based on your strength & pool volume.

For The ta try again wiping the tip with a damp paper towel between drops & see what u get.
You don’t have to do this every test just the 1st time usually.
Adjusting your ta to be “in range” is not really necessary - as u add acid to lower & maintain ph the ta will lower overtime. A ta of 220 isn’t unheard of.
High ta isn’t hurting anything- its the last parameter to adjust & it’s only necessary to adjust it if you find your ph rise is too fast & too frequent.
You do need an accurate measurement of it though as the amount of acid used to lower ph is calculated with it in PoolMath.
You didn’t list your ch - it’s a good # to know even though
Low ch is fine with vinyl lined pools but high ch can cause scaling in all pools.
How does the water look? Is it crystal clear? Have u had an algae issue? This determines your next steps.

 

[lastevns]

Trust the fas dpd result
The oto is more of a “do i have any chlorine or not?” Kinda test.
If the cya dot disappeared between 50& 60 you round up & call it 60ppm & chlorinate to target fc accordingly FC/CYA Levels
So currently your fc is low- add enough liquid chlorine/bleach to reach the high target of 9ppm on the chart. Use PoolMath

PoolMath

to determine how much that is based on your strength & pool volume.

For The ta try again wiping the tip with a damp paper towel between drops & see what u get.

I will try this. Thx.

You don’t have to do this every test just the 1st time usually.
Adjusting your ta to be “in range” is not really necessary - as u add acid to lower & maintain ph the ta will lower overtime. A ta of 220 isn’t unheard of.

I haven't yet purchased any muriatic acid. I was told I should get it only if I need it. My PH stays consistently at about 7.8 to 8.2. It's never dipped lower than 7.8 but I suppose it could. For now, should I worry about lowering the PH if it is in this range? I thought this was a good range.

High ta isn’t hurting anything- its the last parameter to adjust & it’s only necessary to adjust it if you find your ph rise is too fast & too frequent.
You do need an accurate measurement of it though as the amount of acid used to lower ph is calculated with it in PoolMath.
You didn’t list your ch - it’s a good # to know even though

I was thinking I didn't need this because of vinyl... we do have very hard water and I assume calcium is present in it. So I will run this test today.

Thanks again for all your help . I need to go find out how to use the Pool Math app. I don't seem to be able to input my numbers and have them appear. Obviously I don't know how it works yet.

Low ch is fine with vinyl lined pools but high ch can cause scaling in all pools.
How does the water look? Is it crystal clear? Have u had an algae issue? This determines your next steps.

Oh, and... water is crystal clear. But, the pool has only been up about a month. Never had an algae issue. I keep the pool covered when not in use. Hopefully on these hot days (like today where it's in the mid 90s), the cover won't create an environment conducive to algae. Can that happen? Can leaving the cover encourage algae growth?

 

[Newdude]

Hopefully on these hot days (like today where it's in the mid 90s), the cover won't create an environment conducive to algae. Can that happen? Can leaving the cover encourage algae growth?

Open it twice a week for 15-30 minutes so the CCs can outgas / burn off. If you ever go too long with it closed, you'll know right away when it 'smells like a pool'. No harm done when it does, it only takes a minute or so to fix itself. But it does need to breathe every few days.

 

[lastevns]

Open it twice a week for 15-30 minutes so the CCs can outgas / burn off. If you ever go too long with it closed, you'll know right away when it 'smells like a pool'. No harm done when it does, it only takes a minute or so to fix itself. But it does need to breathe every few days.

So far I am taking the cover off daily but usually later in the day when the UV Index isn't at "LAVA" level. So, the cover comes off when the sun is going down and the yard is largely shaded. I also pull it back to test and treat the pool, but only a small portion of the cover is pulled back then. So, maybe I will remove the cover a little sooner in the day to avoid growth (I did read a closed thread discussing this but it was in regards to a pool with a SWG).

I know this is going to sound stupid but the reason I keep the pool covered is that we live very close to orange groves where bee keepers raise and keep bees for pollination. When the cover is off they flock to the pool water and kill themselves. I feel like I'm baiting them to their death and I know bees need to be protected. I wish there was some way to discourage them from getting in the pool. I have the little landing pads for the lizards or animals that might get in the pool and they seem to work -- but the bees just don't make it. They die every time.

 

[Mdragger88]

Here’s a tutorial on the PoolMath app

The ph needs to be maintained in the 7’s - high 7’s is ok, when it creeps to 8.0 add enough acid to get to 7.5/7.6
7.5 is the same ph as tears you can see how this would be beneficial & more comfortable in a pool.
Low & high ph can both have negative effects on swimmers, equipment, & surfaces.

PH - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

As u repeat this ph lowering process over time, your ta will come down & in turn will moderate your ph rise.
PH & TA are married chemically-
If u add chemicals to increase/decrease one the other will increase/decrease.

Acid always lowers both-
The only way to increase one without the other is aeration.
Aeration increases ph without increasing ta.
If u start feeling u need to lower TA sooner rather than later here’s the safe way to do so

Lower Total Alkalinity

A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.

www.google.com

If your fc drops below minimum for your cya level algae will grow covered or not.
Glad you’re water looks great let’s keep it that way
Pool Care Basics

 

[lastevns]

Here’s a tutorial on the PoolMath app

I hadn't tested PH before so I went out and tested it. Then I came back in to add it to the Pool Math app. I get a message saying I have to subscribe. So, do I only get to add test numbers once before having to subscribe? Even if not aall the numbers were filled in? That seems odd.

The ph needs to be maintained in the 7’s - high 7’s is ok, when it creeps to 8.0 add enough acid to get to 7.5/7.6
7.5 is the same ph as tears you can see how this would be beneficial & more comfortable in a pool.
Low & high ph can both have negative effects on swimmers, equipment, & surfaces.

PH - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

As u repeat this ph lowering process over time, your ta will come down & in turn will moderate your ph rise.
PH & TA are married chemically-
If u add chemicals to increase/decrease one the other will increase/decrease.
View attachment 426187
Acid always lowers both-
The only way to increase one without the other is aeration.
Aeration increases ph without increasing ta.
If u start feeling u need to lower TA sooner rather than later here’s the safe way to do so

Lower Total Alkalinity

A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.

www.google.com

If your fc drops below minimum for your cya level algae will grow covered or not.
Glad you’re water looks great let’s keep it that way
Pool Care Basics

 

[lastevns]

I hadn't tested PH before so I went out and tested it. Then I came back in to add it to the Pool Math app. I get a message saying I have to subscribe. So, do I only get to add test numbers once before having to subscribe? Even if not aall the numbers were filled in? That seems odd.

nevermind. i found a way to edit.

 

[getliquified]

Mine came toasty as well. Can't really help it in FL. Thankfully no harm was done.

 

[Mdragger88]

I hadn't tested PH before so I went out and tested it. Then I came back in to add it to the Pool Math app. I get a message saying I have to subscribe. So, do I only get to add test numbers once before having to subscribe? Even if not aall the numbers were filled in? That seems odd.

It only lets u keep one log without a subscription.
U can still use the app to calculate but u have to manually change the “current” parameter everytime. You can keep paper logs instead.
The $8/yr or whatever is totally worth it in my opinion but its optional.

 

[Newdude]

+1 to the subscription. If not for you, do it for us, for you. If you run into any hiccups (or worse, like a swamp), we can see where it went wrong more times than not, and hatch a plan so it doesn't happen again.

Obviously the plan will be to respect the FC/CYA Levels, but we may see a pattern that you don't.

 

[lastevns]

It only lets u keep one log without a subscription.
U can still use the app to calculate but u have to manually change the “current” parameter everytime. You can keep paper logs instead.
The $8/yr or whatever is totally worth it in my opinion but its optional.

Yeah, I discovered I could make an addition of the PH. And, I want to support the site, no question. Just wanted to know how the app works prior to committing to a monthly sub fee. But, I have commitment issues. I might be the only woman I know who is just fine having a BF rather than a husband. For me, if the delicate balance works, don't adjust it.

 

[lastevns]

Mine came toasty as well. Can't really help it in FL. Thankfully no harm was done.

Yeah, you get the swamp, we get the desert. Right about now (it's 92 degrees), I think I might trade you!

 

[lastevns]

OK so you're good and read up. Just like you saw, go one silly line at a time for each test and it couldn't be simpler.

I get each tests bottles ready, in order, uncapped to my left. I grab the next bottle and put it down to my right. I cap them afterwards and move onto the next round.

The CYA you need overhead sun. Put the sun behind you and the googely eye at your belt buckle. Lightning fast glance, yes or no. If you stare your brain will find it no matter what.

Jut seeing this whole thread. Guess I didn't read it completely when it first came in. And, yes, if I stare for a few seconds, I see that the dot is down there. So, like someone else also suggested, I will use the "glance" method.

We round up so only fill to the 10s. A 62 is a 70 anyway, so fill 60, then 70 if need be.

Follow the TA wiping instructions carefully. The bottle gets static charged in shipping and it messes up the drops for the first 5-10 tests. It reads abnormally high when messed up.

Doing this as well, now.

The other tests are pretty straightforward. Ask away with any questions.