- Jul 4, 2012
- 801
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Hi,
Last weekend I was heating my pool for several hours, went out to check the temp and it had shut down displaying a 'rollout switch open' error.
So, I know I need to replace that switch, but also need to determine the root cause of the switch opening.
I’ve had some mice attempt to nest in the heater a few times this summer but have gotten them out and attached mesh screens to all of the openings so that should take care of that. The mice seem to have chewed some of that foam that I believe is insulation that is visible when the top lid is removed, but not any wires or anything that I can see.
I used a leaf blower to try and clear out/loosen some of the debris and (hopefully, maybe?) clear out gas orifices, and then shop vac’d into every nook I could.
Seems that the usual suspects for this are, wind, debris in orifices, or sooting. I don't recall that it was a particularly windy day, hoping my shop vac/leaf blower treatment helped with debris where it shouldn't be. Is sooting something that can build up over time (heater is 6 years old) under proper operation or is it strictly indicative of a problem? I’ve observed the flames recently (several weeks ago) and they all looked fine – consistently blue, no orange, etc. so not sure how likely sooting is as a cause? Is there a way to visually inspect for sooting without taking lots of things apart?
Otherwise, my plan is to replace the switch, start it up with front door removed and observe if there are any flames rolling out the front. Does that sound reasonable as next steps? Or should I completely remove the burner tray for cleaning? Any other troubleshooting I should be doing?
As an aside - I see these switches ranging in price from $6-$35..... is it a matter of original raypak parts vs generic? This amazon link says it is raypak, but I am skeptical: https://www.amazon.com/Raypak-00589...out+switch+406a+005899F&qid=1633382445&sr=8-3
Thanks
Paul
Last weekend I was heating my pool for several hours, went out to check the temp and it had shut down displaying a 'rollout switch open' error.
So, I know I need to replace that switch, but also need to determine the root cause of the switch opening.
I’ve had some mice attempt to nest in the heater a few times this summer but have gotten them out and attached mesh screens to all of the openings so that should take care of that. The mice seem to have chewed some of that foam that I believe is insulation that is visible when the top lid is removed, but not any wires or anything that I can see.
I used a leaf blower to try and clear out/loosen some of the debris and (hopefully, maybe?) clear out gas orifices, and then shop vac’d into every nook I could.
Seems that the usual suspects for this are, wind, debris in orifices, or sooting. I don't recall that it was a particularly windy day, hoping my shop vac/leaf blower treatment helped with debris where it shouldn't be. Is sooting something that can build up over time (heater is 6 years old) under proper operation or is it strictly indicative of a problem? I’ve observed the flames recently (several weeks ago) and they all looked fine – consistently blue, no orange, etc. so not sure how likely sooting is as a cause? Is there a way to visually inspect for sooting without taking lots of things apart?
Otherwise, my plan is to replace the switch, start it up with front door removed and observe if there are any flames rolling out the front. Does that sound reasonable as next steps? Or should I completely remove the burner tray for cleaning? Any other troubleshooting I should be doing?
As an aside - I see these switches ranging in price from $6-$35..... is it a matter of original raypak parts vs generic? This amazon link says it is raypak, but I am skeptical: https://www.amazon.com/Raypak-00589...out+switch+406a+005899F&qid=1633382445&sr=8-3
Thanks
Paul