Raypak heater question - remote operation

[homegameroom]

Long time lurker, first time poster.

I have an old Jandy Lite 2 heater (natural gas, 250K btu) for my inground pool and spa; the heater needs to be replaced (its from 2004 and doesn't owe me a darn thing - the least I can do is to give it a decent burial).

The heater currently comes on when the spa is turned on (via the air button on the spa deck) and senses the flow of the water via a Grid Controls flow switch. I can manually turn the heat on (for the pool) by heading over to the heater and pressing POOL when necessary.

I assume the Raypak heater I am looking at buying (Model 014939 - NG, electronic ignition with cupro-nickel exchanger and poly headers) can do the same thing, but, per the Raypak manual, it looks like it might be remote operation or nothing.

I am perfectly fine with automatic operation for the spa and manual operation for the pool and have no desire to automate anything or buy fancier controls (yet...). Will the Raypak support this?

Thank you all in advance for any advice!

 

[KDpoolguy]

Good choice on the Raypak. The Rp2100 style heaters have a mode selection with temperature set points for either Pool or Spa. The 2 or 3 wire connections can be utilized with a variety of automation systems, but don’t think it’d work with your electric flow switch like the older heaters could kinda analog setup a simple on/off.

 

[homegameroom]

That's what I was afraid of...... I use the heater for the pool frequently enough that I don't want to have to fiddle with it that much, but not enough to warrant a fancier control system. I might have to bite the bullet and get something though.

 

[homegameroom]

Maybe I'll try the Jandy LXI250NS.....

 

[KDpoolguy]

Is this just a desire to replicate the ability to simply turn on the spa jets/bubbles which then daisychains a signal to turn on the heater? Even the Jandy control is a LCD menu mode system (similar to Raypak) where you must be at the unit to select the mode and set point temp. I’d assume either choice you could make something work as you had it since you had a JL2 working with how you liked it.

 

[Pool Clown]

The Jandy Lite 2 has the same type of remote control interface that the Raypak does. IOW you can probably get the Raypak to heat in the same way the Jandy is doing now. Your air switch is probably just making a connection, that proves the safety circuit, and allows the heater to fire. Your heater is probably currently in the on position and you have the thermostat set to the desired temp. Then when you hit the air switch, you are proving the safety circuit and the heater comes on (as long as there is flow). When you remove the present heater, check and confirm that the air switch is connected to the safety circuit or firemans loop (a small 2 connection block on the upper right side when you have the door off of the heater). You can place those wires on the firemans loop on the Raypak (see the owners manual for location).

 

[homegameroom]

Thank you all for the advice! I think I will go with the Raypak; I'll put flow switches in line (see diagram) and that should trigger the heat. I'll probably just set the pool temperature setting low (the pool never goes below 50 F) while I'm not heating it and manually walk over and boost it when I do want heat. The spa will come on automatically when the heater senses flow to its preset temperature.

My plumbing currently has NO flow valves; the attached drawing shows valves that will be added when i add the heater (and replace the cartridge filter).

QUESTION: I assume the spa has priority if the pool is calling for heat and the spa turns on (I would want the spa to heat to the preset spa temperature and not the preset pool temperature). I can't find any confirmation of that in the literature....

PS Note that the spa and pool return lines do NOT connect; rather one runs under the other.

 

[Pool Clown]

No need for a flow switch as long as the equipment is at the same level as your pool/spa. Heater has a pressure switch that senses when there is water flowing (through it). If you are happy with the way the heater is wired at present, hook the new heater up the same way as the existing one. (Because) Pushing the air switch after you use the spa should disable the heater throughout the pool's daily run time(s). Or IOW until you push it again.

Unless i'm missing something.

 

[homegameroom]

Thank you - that's exactly what I was looking for!

I actually like the fact that the heater will not heat the pool after I turn the spa on until I manually turn it on again (that's a feature for me, not a bug!). It will also save me a few bucks on a flow switch.

It's pretty difficult to find information like this from anyone - even decent pool supply stores. THANK YOU!