I have a pretty old Raypak R405B running on Propane. During this year's opening, I vacuumed last year's debris out the heat exchanger, checked and cleaned the burner, fired it up, then ran the heater for several hours but noticed no temp gain in the pool. It's a pretty simple pool-only setup with two valves plus the main filter valve - valves are all set properly and I'm getting good outflow on the return line and out of the over pressure valve when I crack it open. But the water that comes out is the same temp as the water in the pool (or just about!)!
Sure seems like the exchanger is getting bypassed (or mostly bypassed).
Anyway, I located a parts manual and found several parts that I'm sure are involved in my problem:
1) Bypass valve assembly
2) Unitherm Governor (looks like a car engine coolant thermostat to me)
Pretty sure at this point based on the diagram in the link below that my problem is the UG, so I've ordered one.
https://cdn.globalimageserver.com/FetchDocument.aspx?ID=F5FD17E4-A5DF-4E47-82BC-1A6A233FD9CF
Sound like I'm on the right track here?
Secondary question - shouldn't the heater be shutting down due to high temp in the exchanger? Could be one or more of the header sensors is bad? I'd rather have the darned thing shut down so I know it's not working properly, rather than heat the air in my back yard for several hours.
Finally, can anyone shed light on how I can ensure the bypass valve assembly is working as it should (and not allowing too much cold water to bypass the exchanger and flow back out into the pool)?
Thanks
-Pete
Sure seems like the exchanger is getting bypassed (or mostly bypassed).
Anyway, I located a parts manual and found several parts that I'm sure are involved in my problem:
1) Bypass valve assembly
2) Unitherm Governor (looks like a car engine coolant thermostat to me)
Pretty sure at this point based on the diagram in the link below that my problem is the UG, so I've ordered one.
https://cdn.globalimageserver.com/FetchDocument.aspx?ID=F5FD17E4-A5DF-4E47-82BC-1A6A233FD9CF
Sound like I'm on the right track here?
Secondary question - shouldn't the heater be shutting down due to high temp in the exchanger? Could be one or more of the header sensors is bad? I'd rather have the darned thing shut down so I know it's not working properly, rather than heat the air in my back yard for several hours.
Finally, can anyone shed light on how I can ensure the bypass valve assembly is working as it should (and not allowing too much cold water to bypass the exchanger and flow back out into the pool)?
Thanks
-Pete