I have a Raypack gas heater. It works great. I bought the house with it already here. Spa heats up in 20 min. No issues with it. I'd love to keep it running for as long as possible. I was wondering if anyone could share some things to check and maintenance tips. I tried YouTube but it only has steps to take when something is wrong. I'd like to be a little more proactive keep it in tip top shape. Suggestions?
Raypack Pool/Spa Gas heater maintenance items?
- Thread starter IMV8N
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,414
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Clean the burners and orifices, limit the corrosion, and keep critters from nesting in it.
@swamprat69 may have some thoughts.
www.troublefreepool.com
Also check for spider webs at the end that sits on the orifice. Depending on the ignition source( spark/hot surface ignitor), you must be careful removing the burners.
If you have a silicon carbide hot surface ignitor, they are very fragile and susceptible to failure from bumps against a hard surface and even oil from your hands causing it to fail. Only handle from the white ceramic insulator at the end that the wires are attached to.
Orifices can be cleaned out with a pipe cleaner to remove spider webs or other blockages.
After the ignition source and burners are removed you will need to look up through the heat exchanger with a mirror and flashlight to see if there is any black carbon/soot restricting the flow through the heat exchanger. If there is, the heater would need to be disassembled and cleaned to remove the blockage. This should probably only be attempted by a professional if needed.
@swamprat69 may have some thoughts.
Heater Maintenance - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Cleaning
Most burners lift up from the end that is away from the gas manifold ( usually fitted into a slot at the far end) and push away from the gas manifold to remove off of the orifice on the manifold. They can then be cleaned with a wire brush and either blown out from the top slots or tipped towards the end that sits on the orifice to remove internal dirt.Also check for spider webs at the end that sits on the orifice. Depending on the ignition source( spark/hot surface ignitor), you must be careful removing the burners.
If you have a silicon carbide hot surface ignitor, they are very fragile and susceptible to failure from bumps against a hard surface and even oil from your hands causing it to fail. Only handle from the white ceramic insulator at the end that the wires are attached to.
Orifices can be cleaned out with a pipe cleaner to remove spider webs or other blockages.
After the ignition source and burners are removed you will need to look up through the heat exchanger with a mirror and flashlight to see if there is any black carbon/soot restricting the flow through the heat exchanger. If there is, the heater would need to be disassembled and cleaned to remove the blockage. This should probably only be attempted by a professional if needed.
The burner orifices on Ray Pak heaters, any size with a number ending in XX6A, are difficult to get to to clean the actual hole in them if they get clogged. They will get clogged with spider nest if you don't fire the heater at least once a month (weekly is better) for about 5 minutes. It burns out the spiders (and rats). If it is a model ending XX7A, you can't get to the orifices without disassembly.
If one does get clogged (usually the one on the far right for some reason) use a piece of 14ga copper wire to just run in and out of the orifice (if you can get to it). A nick in the brass orifice from steel wire can cause flame issues with that burner. I bend a loop of about 1" in the end. Unfortunately, on a Ray Pak the burner try usually needs to be removed to get to the orifices, so firing the heater weekly is a better option.