Rain hosed my chemistry

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VTSoundman

0
Sep 18, 2013
39
San Rafael, CA
We've had a ton of rain at the house...we usually get 1.5-2x the 'official amount' where I am located on a ridge.

Current Chems
CL 4.5 (after 2 gallon of 12%)
TA 80
CH 280
CYA 0
Borate 15
PH 7.2 (after a half gallon of acid)
CSI -0.6

I'd like to bring Borates to about 30 ...given the absolute lack of CYA and borates less than half where they were, I've pumped a ton a water out of the pool from rain. Water is cloudy with white powdery dust on the bottom. A little worried this is plaster dust. Pump is running 2-3hrs per 24. Filter cartridges are ratty & do need to be cleaned. Chlorine source is 12% pool store.

Given all the interdependence of the various things, really appreciate correct sequence of chemicals & point me in the right direction for getting it all back on track?

Thx!
 
What test kit are you using?

For the CYA to be "0" after the rain it had to be "0" before the rain. With no CYA you have had no protection for the FC from the sun, thus pushing your FC lower quicker than normal.

The first step is to bring the CYA up to 30 and then do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to verify if the cloudy condition is caused by organics.

Borates is the last thing to worry about, after everything else is stable.....
 
I do not know how well received this will be by the forums, but certainly a "convenient" way to add CYA and additional chlorine right now would be a few tablets. It would depend on how quickly you want the CYA to be introduced and how much you want.

How long have you been seeing the white dust? It could be a few things.
 
Tablets have their place........vacations and weekend get aways and such. For pushing the CYA up from 0.....they are not so good as it would take too much time to get to the level he needs-at least 30. I would use powder CYA in a sock or two as seen in the extended tests on the left side of the home page.

Kim:kim:
 
We base our pool care system on accurate testing and only adding what the pool needs, when it needs it. But, that requires that the pool be tested on a regular basis. What was the CYA at different points between September & now? At a minimum you should be testing CYA every 4 - 6 weeks and adjusting it back up if rain is causing you to pump lots of water out of the pool.

You don't list any automated form of chlorine addition in your signature (SWCG, Liquidator or Stenner pump) so you should be testing the FC every day or two before you add chlorine so you know how much to add. I admit, I may only test every 4 - 6 days because I have a Stenner pump adding chlorine whenever my pool pump is running but when an outside event (heavy rain) changes my water I'll up the testing.

During the summer when we are gutting rain I will use pucks to keep the CYA where I want it (I have calculated how much CYA each puck adds to my specific pool volume) but if my CYA were "0" I would be adding CYA. Pucks are not your answer right now. Remember, just because the CYA is below the readable level of your test kit does not mean it is actually "0". Calculate how much CYA you need to bring the level up 10 points and add that via the sock method. Once that is dissolved an dwell circulated re-test CYA. Repeat if it has not reached a readable level or is not at the level you want. Or, add the amount calculated to give you "30", understanding it may end up being above "40" because of what is already there just below the readable level.
 
We had >8in of rain since it started raining a day or so ago. Pumped pool down 3x in last 24hrs (no auto drain). Supposed to get more rain this week.

Cl source is 12% jugs from pool store. I'll install the stenner pump setup when I replace my failing/bearing screaming single speed (needs all new electrical too).

No tests between mid Dec and now (the other day) due to travel and health issues (stuff happens).

Would regularly add acid and Cl to keep pH and FC at reasonable points - about once a week. pH would creep up and Cl was relatively stable. With cold water temps, the pool is more less 'closed' (no heater). Other than an occasional check pH and CL, didn't think it was necessary to test frequently?

Forgot to ask...Other than getting CYA in first, what order should I attack the chemicals? Does it matter? With a CSI of -0.6, how quickly do I need to get everything balanced? We're supposed to get a ton more rain...

sent via the cone of silence
 
VTSoundman said:
Forgot to ask...Other than getting CYA in first, what order should I attack the chemicals? Does it matter? With a CSI of -0.6, how quickly do I need to get everything balanced?
Click to expand...
Once you get CYA up and your are keeping FC/pH correct the only parameter left is CH. TA, unless it's way out of wack and causing pH to rise uncontrollably we generally allow to float. Many of us find that as it drops our pH becomes more stable.

You really need to conduct an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to see if the white powder is organics.
 
That isn't unusual at all. Depending on your makeup water TA, it can require quite frequent attention. Remember that Borates are completely optional so you don't need get hung up on them before you master the rest of your pool balance chemistry.
 

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