Questions on Pump, Filter, Paramount Cleaning System

[BuckeyeMan]

Question #1. If I want to clean basket at pump, what is the process? Intelloflow VS pump.
2. I have a Paramount Cleaning System, and notice when pump is on and pop ups are working, there is 0 pressure showing on top of the cleaning dome. Is that normal? Also noticed last night one wasn't up, but had bubbles coming up from it. Also, does it hurt when brushing pool, to run the brush over the pop ups? Also noticed on two of the shallow ledges in the pool that I can reach from the deck, that the pressure coming out of pop up isn't that strong.
3. When I bought this house in 2020, I left all the valves in same place that previous owner had them. The valve for skimmer/drain is turned half way on so both are sucking. Should I just leave this that way, and should I turn to totally drain, when brushing pool, then to totally skimmer when I want the surface clean, then back to half way all other times?

 

[ajw22]

@proavia is the best for these questions about the IFCS.

 

[kul]

Here is the video I used to learn how to clean the basket at the pump:

 

[proavia]

There should be a pressure reading at the water valve gauge. If at zero, either gauge is bad or water flow into water valve is low.

First - with pump off - remove top of water valve, turn top upside down and look in top. There should be a strainer there. Take it out and clean it. Also look in water valve for any issues or debris. Once everything is clean, reassemble and start up the pump. Check for leaks (fix any) and see if water valve pressure gauge reads anything. Also check if pressure out of popups is better. If the pressure out of the popups is better and the gauge is still reading zero, consider replacing it.

You can brush over the popups when they are retracted. But don't just slam into them. If any are extended, stay away from them with the brush - they may break and aren't cheap to replace.

Valve settings on the suction side between main drain and skimmer is mostly personal preference. I mostly leave mine set at 20% main drain / 80% skimmer. I do exercise the valve at least once a month - just to be sure it still works and that there is nothing stuck in the input lines.

Maybe post a few pics of your equipment area - including valves and infloor water valve. We may see something to help you out further.

Fill out your signature with your pool, pool equipment (including manufacturer and model numbers) and testkit model information. This helps us better help you without needing to ask the same questions over and over. See mine and others signatures for likely information.

 

[IMissNimoy]

Proavia gave great advice. I would only add two things:

1. Speaking from experience, have a new seal ready if you take the top of the dome off.
2. After turning the pump off, I close the suction inflow to the pump before opening the basket. This helps with priming when you turn it back on. Just remember to reopen the valve.

I have the same IFCS and the valve dome has never had a gage. I've considered replacing the plug and adding the gage but never had a need since my IFCS has it's own pump and plumbing. I did have one zone exhibit low pressure shortly after the pool was built. A piece of superfluous glue partially blocked the individual port seal inside the dome.

 

[BuckeyeMan]

There should be a pressure reading at the water valve gauge. If at zero, either gauge is bad or water flow into water valve is low.

First - with pump off - remove top of water valve, turn top upside down and look in top. There should be a strainer there. Take it out and clean it. Also look in water valve for any issues or debris. Once everything is clean, reassemble and start up the pump. Check for leaks (fix any) and see if water valve pressure gauge reads anything. Also check if pressure out of popups is better. If the pressure out of the popups is better and the gauge is still reading zero, consider replacing it.

You can brush over the popups when they are retracted. But don't just slam into them. If any are extended, stay away from them with the brush - they may break and aren't cheap to replace.

Valve settings on the suction side between main drain and skimmer is mostly personal preference. I mostly leave mine set at 20% main drain / 80% skimmer. I do exercise the valve at least once a month - just to be sure it still works and that there is nothing stuck in the input lines.

Maybe post a few pics of your equipment area - including valves and infloor water valve. We may see something to help you out further.

Fill out your signature with your pool, pool equipment (including manufacturer and model numbers) and testkit model information. This helps us better help you without needing to ask the same questions over and over. See mine and others signatures for likely information.

I will update my signature here shortly. I have 15 pop ups, and just turned pool on and 14 of them popped up, 1 still down. I took Pcc2000 apart and checking gear module. How do I 100% know when it is bad? If I hold unit with the paddles facing up, 4 of them I can lift up, and they fall back down, 1 of them I can pull up and it slowly goes back down, and the 6th one I pull up, and pretty much somewhat stays up. Trying to post video , but don’t give me that option. I will see if I can make my video into YouTube link, and post here. Here is the link to my short video of the unit:

 

[BuckeyeMan]

I will update my signature here shortly. I have 15 pop ups, and just turned pool on and 14 of them popped up, 1 still down. I took Pcc2000 apart and checking gear module. How do I 100% know when it is bad? If I hold unit with the paddles facing up, 4 of them I can lift up, and they fall back down, 1 of them I can pull up and it slowly goes back down, and the 6th one I pull up, and pretty much somewhat stays up. Trying to post video , but don’t give me that option. I will see if I can make my video into YouTube link, and post here. Here is the link to my short video of the unit:

I talked to Paramount, explained to him the above comment about the unit, and told me it is no good, and to replace. They are just about 20 miles away, but won’t sell to the public. He said go to Leslie’s. Checked internet and Amazon, and Leslies was the cheapest, $205. Installed, now working the way it should, and showing 5lbs on gauge.

 

[proavia]

Great - not the $200+, but that it's now working.

 

[BuckeyeMan]

Great - not the $200+, but that it's now working.

should pressure be more than 5lbs? It's a 3hp vs Intelliflo pump, and 6 port water valve. When pump is around 1200rpms it shows 0psi, at 3200 it shows 5lbs.

 

[proavia]

Not sure as I have a different system. Suggest you check the manual or with the manufacturer.

Of course, the lower the pump rpm, the lower the pressure regardless.
When using the infloor, usually all return water flow only goes to the infloor.

 

[BuckeyeMan]

Not sure as I have a different system. Suggest you check the manual or with the manufacturer.

Of course, the lower the pump rpm, the lower the pressure regardless.
When using the infloor, usually all return water flow only goes to the infloor.

Should this valve be in the full open "cleaning" position when I want to clean pool? This position it has always been in, since I have owned the home, 1 1/2 years

 

[Turbo1Ton]

I would also expect it to have more pressure, but I have a different setup from a different manufacturer, and I don't have a pressure gauge installed.

As your valve sits, it is sending most of the water to the IFCS, and a small bit to your other items. Depends on if there is anything else you want to run along with the IFCS, that is on the right side plumbing. I think it is probably fine as it is. Since you don't have automation, I would leave it as is that way you don't have to adjust it all the time.

--Jeff

 

[proavia]

Yes, set it to full cleaner. This will send all return water to the IFCS. And if it's performing well, you may be able to reduce the pump rpm to save a bit of money on electric. It's a trial and error type thing.

 

[BuckeyeMan]

Yes, set it to full cleaner. This will send all return water to the IFCS. And if it's performing well, you may be able to reduce the pump rpm to save a bit of money on electric. It's a trial and error type thing.

I would imagine , the only other thing that it would be going to are the 3 returns to the pool.

 

[BuckeyeMan]

Yes, set it to full cleaner. This will send all return water to the IFCS. And if it's performing well, you may be able to reduce the pump rpm to save a bit of money on electric. It's a trial and error type thing.

I went ahead today and opened the valve 100% to the clean side, and water valve pressure gauge went from 5-15 psi which is good, and was getting alot of movement in pool, but filter pressure went up to 25 from 20, and I backed the vale off to 50/50 when I noticed the valve dripping water. Not sure where it is coming from, other than from top left side, hopefully not a crack, and just from one of the screws on front.

 

[BuckeyeMan]

that's the area of the leak.

 

[Turbo1Ton]

Unfortunately I think that valve is gonna need to be replaced, if that's where it's leaking.

--Jeff

 

[proavia]

When is the last time you fully cleaned your filter?
How old are the cartridges?

It appears that valve has leaked in the past - see all that buildup between the valve lid and valve body... You need to determine exact where the leak is and see if it needs to be fixed or replaced. Chances are if it leaks water with the pump on, it is a possible source of an air leak right now or in the near future will be that source.

The valve may have been set to that position by a previous owner or pool guy to buy a little time before needing to fix it (or to mask the leak).

The point in setting the valve to full infloor is that you can possibly get adequate cleaning (when needed) at a lower rpm, thereby saving some $$ on electricity. With an older system that may or may not work as well as you'd like - especially in a system you personally haven't maintained since the pool was installed. With a bit of time and effort, you can probably improve the cleaning of the pool and efficiency of the equipment.

 

[BuckeyeMan]

When is the last time you fully cleaned your filter?
How old are the cartridges?

It appears that valve has leaked in the past - see all that buildup between the valve lid and valve body... You need to determine exact where the leak is and see if it needs to be fixed or replaced. Chances are if it leaks water with the pump on, it is a possible source of an air leak right now or in the near future will be that source.

The valve may have been set to that position by a previous owner or pool guy to buy a little time before needing to fix it (or to mask the leak).

The point in setting the valve to full infloor is that you can possibly get adequate cleaning (when needed) at a lower rpm, thereby saving some $$ on electricity. With an older system that may or may not work as well as you'd like - especially in a system you personally haven't maintained since the pool was installed. With a bit of time and effort, you can probably improve the cleaning of the pool and efficiency of the equipment.

I have owned the house since 5/2020 and pool guy pulled them out last spring and cleaned them. Don't know how old they are. With the valve at 50/50 where it has always been, the pressure has been at 20 on the filter. Filter gauge says "Start" at the 20psi mark, and "Clean" at the 30psi mark. At one point maybe last year, it seems like I remember him saying he needed to replace a gasket on a valve. I may be mistaken, but seems like he did. I will have to call him to ask. But pressure has always been right around 20, and haven't noticed the valve dripping. You suppose that valve needs a new gasket, and if so, is that something that Leslies would carry? If I need to replace gasket, just shut pump off , and remove?

 

[Turbo1Ton]

Sorry, I misinterpreted where the leak was happening I thought it was all along the screw hole, not just at the cover. If it is just the cover, yes you can replace the gasket. Leslie's should carry a repair kit. If you do decide to tackle it, just like you said, shut pump off, remove the cover, and replace gasket. Do not use any power tools on those screws. Don't want to risk stripping out the threads.

--Jeff