Questions on pH, FC, TA, and CYA results

KimBee

Active member
May 14, 2023
28
Southern California
Pool Size
10550
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
Thank you in advance for the advice!

We have a weekly pool guy, but since the kids were complaining of the pool water burning their eyes and I’m a scientist by training I bought the TF-Pro kit and a pH meter and ran my second weekly set of tests today:

FC 14.5
CC 0.5
pH 5.5
TA 10
CYA 0

Attaching pics of last week’s test results and my CYA tube today.

1. I’ve shared results with my pool guy. The pH improved since last week, but the FC is way up from last week. Of everything that’s “wrong,” what should be prioritized for correction?

2. Is the liquid in the CYA test supposed to be cloudy/turbid such that the black dot becomes hard to see? The pic is the tube completely full and the liquid is clear as can be.

Thank you again for your help and advice. This is my first pool so definitely a newbie.
 

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Welcome to TFP! :wave: You definitely need CYA. I would add stabilizer for a CYA goal or at least 30, perhaps even 40-50 if it's getting warm for you there now.

The pH and TA are big red flags. Did someone add a bunch of acid or something recently? That's really low and odd. Before you jump through hoops to fix it, are you confident in the TA and pH tests? I see you have a digital pH meter, but did you also try the R-0014 drops? If the pH was that low the test color would've been really light. The TA would've also turned Barbie pink really past.

Best we make sure you didn't have any complications with those two.
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: You definitely need CYA. I would add stabilizer for a CYA goal or at least 30, perhaps even 40-50 if it's getting warm for you there now.

The pH and TA are big red flags. Did someone add a bunch of acid or something recently? That's really low and odd. Before you jump through hoops to fix it, are you confident in the TA and pH tests? I see you have a digital pH meter, but did you also try the R-0014 drops? If the pH was that low the test color would've been really light. The TA would've also turned Barbie pink really past.

Best we make sure you didn't have any complications with those two.
Thank you! I’m so grateful for this resource.

Yeah I feel confident about both the pH and TA tests. I did the R-0014 in the comparator block in addition to the pH meter. And yes, it only took a single drop of R-0009 to turn the color to bright magenta for the TA test. 😬
 
Then I would use the PoolMath APP's "Effects of Adding" to determine how much baking soda to add to increase the TA by 40 ppm. You may need more baking soda if we need to take the TA a bit higher, but start on the TA now. That water is very corrosive at the moment.

Do you have a bypass on that heater? I would not want that water hitting the core if it's copper.
 
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Your a couple hours behind me, so if you have time this evening, I would make it a priority to increase the TA. Add that 40 ppm, let it mix for about 30 min to an hour and re-test. You may need to get the TA up (in stages) until you hit the 60-80 mark. By getting the TA higher, it should allow the pH to rise easier. We have to get the pH up to at least 7.0 soon.
 
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If you have some Borax handy, that will work as well. Borax is available as 20 Mule Team® Borax Natural Laundry Booster. It is sold in the laundry detergent section of most larger grocery stores and some big box stores. Borax is best added by pre-dissolving it in a bucket of water and then pouring that slowly in front of a return.
 
Yeah that water would def burn eyes & probably sting skin a bit. Reminds me of the water the previous owners left me with 20+ pucks sitting on bottom of pool.
 
For the CYA ......... A goal of at least 30 (minimum). If you're getting good sun, take it to 40-50.

Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the PoolMath APP into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. After about 30 minutes of soaking, squeeze the sock continuously to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
 
Then I would use the PoolMath APP's "Effects of Adding" to determine how much baking soda to add to increase the TA by 40 ppm. You may need more baking soda if we need to take the TA a bit higher, but start on the TA now. That water is very corrosive at the moment.

Do you have a bypass on that heater? I would not want that water hitting the core if it's copper.
Our pool guy implied we can’t raise the pH too quickly. True?

I am not seeing a bypass valve on the heater…pic attached
 

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Aeration also helps to increase the pH, so if you have a spillover form that spa into the pool, let it run. Bubblers or anything else like that as well. Aeration is your friend right now until you get the pH to at least 7.0.
 
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I am not seeing a bypass valve on the heater…pic attached
No, me either.

Our pool guy implied we can’t raise the pH too quickly. True?
I think we can ignore any of his advice. He's probably the reason you're in this predicament. :brickwall:
 
We'll circle back to that heater later. I don't' recall if that model has a copper or titanium core. For now, try to increase the pH and TA as noted above. Once you see the TA make it to the 60-ish mark and the pH to the 7.0 range we can breather better.
 
We'll circle back to that heater later. I don't' recall if that model has a copper or titanium core. For now, try to increase the pH and TA as noted above. Once you see the TA make it to the 60-ish mark and the pH to the 7.0 range we can breather better.
Thank you so much!
 
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Your a couple hours behind me, so if you have time this evening, I would make it a priority to increase the TA. Add that 40 ppm, let it mix for about 30 min to an hour and re-test. You may need to get the TA up (in stages) until you hit the 60-80 mark. By getting the TA higher, it should allow the pH to rise easier. We have to get the pH up to at least 7.0 soon.
Silly question but should the pump be running during this?
 

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