Questions about wiring IntelliConnect with non-pentair SWG & Heater

[Travis Pierce]

I've been so impressed by and thankful for the support on this forum and I'm hoping you can help me with these wiring questions.

This Saturday, I'm replacing my dying pump (Superflo 1 speed) with the Intelliflo3 (after a ton of help from @ajw22) and thought it would make sense to install the Intelliconnect simultaneously. I've been reading through the manuals and other threads, but I'm still unsure how to connect all the pieces. Your advice is very important to me, and I would love to confirm with those more familiar. I have an installer giving me a fair price on the pump and installation, so having him do that to get the warranty. Still, he said he doesn't have experience with IntelliConnect, so I plan to handle this piece or at least be able to give some direction.

The goal: is to control the heater remotely and remove the unused equipment that was wired previously (booster pump & old freeze protector). AND get rid of the T-104 timer, so I don't have concerns about getting hit with 240V every time I turn the pump off or adjust the times on the dial...

My understanding of how this would be wired based on what I've read:

1. main 240V breaker (I should probably convert this to GFCI) --> 2 hot feeds from breaker:
   1. Intelliflo3 - connected directly to the breaker
      1. Pump then connects to IntelliConnect via RS-485
      2. Green & Yellow wires connect to the RS-485 Terminal according to the markings on the control board
   2. IntelliConnect - connected directly to the breaker
      1. PureChlor SWG (screenshot from wiring manual attached)
         
         1. 
         2. This is the main area I'm unsure of (I've included a screenshot of the wiring installation guide from the manual)
            
            1. Since this isn't a Pentair RS-485 cable, would the wire connect to one of the relays?
            2. The desired end state is for the SWG to turn on when the pump is running. I know I won't be able to control chlorine output from app and will do this on the PureChlor SWG unit manually.
      2. Water Temp sensor
         1. sensor wire connects to terminal A via each wire to their corresponding slots
      3. Rheem M406 heater
         1. Remove Firman's switch wire from the T104 timer, and connect it to terminal B.
         2. Set the heater to maximum temp and then control the heater from IntelliConnect app

Questions:

• What am I missing???
• Does the SWG get wired to the relays or how do I manage that piece?
• Should the IntelliConnect be powered by 120V or 240V?

*** Additional Info ***:

Current Wiring: (Pictures of the current setup attached)
Breaker --> Intermatic T104M timer with fireman switch for the heater --> Heater power, pump, SWG (plan to remove freeze protector, and another timer box for booster pump that died & was replaced with a robot)

Current Equipment:

• Pentair Intelliflo3 3hp (being installed Sat)
• PureChlor SWG
• Rheem M406A gas heater

New equipment required to enable basic automation of my equipment:

• Pentair IntelliConnect
• Pentair water temp sensor

 

[jklocke]

Travis -

Yes, you should change the 240v breaker for the pump to GFCI. Check out this link for more info on breakers. You are correct the pump connects to the Intelliconnect via RS-485.

The Intelliconnect can be powered by either 120v or 240v and connects directly to the breaker.

Your SWG can be connected to either relay and powered from there. Is the SWG currently wired for 240v? Ensure the SWG is set up for the same voltage you put into the relay. The relay can then be set up so that it will only supply power to the SWG if the filtration pump is running, and it can also have a schedule assigned to it. The attached picture shows what it looks like on the Pentair Home app.

Unfortunately, I don't have a heater so I'm no help with that, but I think you're on the right track with your plan.

Hope your installation goes well!
Jeff

 

[Travis Pierce]

@jklocke Thank you for your response! I'll check out the breaker link.

The Intelliconnect can be powered by either 120v or 240v and connects directly to the breaker.

Good to know. I've done a lot of 120V wiring, but this would be my first time with 240V. So I would want to wire it based on the voltage needs of the equipment wired to it correct?

Looking at the manual, it seems fairly straightforward, but I'm confused about how the connection between the line (in) and load (out) is made. I would have thought the two were already connected on the backend, but in trying to interpret the diagram, it looks like it might require jumpers between the two? I'm getting the unit on Saturday, so it'll hopefully make more sense when I see it in person.

Your SWG can be connected to either relay and powered from there. Is the SWG currently wired for 240v?

From what I'm seeing in the timer diagram on the left door it appears that my SWG is wired for 240V. The screws colored red are where my SWG is connected. It looks like each 120V line is connected to the blue screw (screws 2 & 4) and then my SWG is connected to the red outgoing load screws (screws 3 & 5). Am I reading this correctly, and is it 240V?



Thanks for the Pentair Home screenshot; that gives me a better understanding of how it will work in the end. So I'd wire everything based on 120V or 240V and then select 240V and toggle the run filtration pump.

Unfortunately, I don't have a heater so I'm no help with that, but I think you're on the right track with your plan.

No worries, I appreciate your help on everything else!

 

[Travis Pierce]

This is my understanding of how the basic wiring would go, but want to confirm.

• Would I wire the heater’s power feed directly to breaker, or to a relay in the IntelliConnect?
• For the 240V feeds to the pump, IntelliConnect, (and possibly heater), would I have a feed from the breaker to a junction box, which then splits out to equipment or is there a best practice?

 

[jklocke]

Looking at the manual, it seems fairly straightforward, but I'm confused about how the connection between the line (in) and load (out) is made. I would have thought the two were already connected on the backend, but in trying to interpret the diagram, it looks like it might require jumpers between the two? I'm getting the unit on Saturday, so it'll hopefully make more sense when I see it in person.

The AC Power connection on the left side of the high voltage area only provides power to the Intelliconnect. From there I have seen it wired 2 ways - 1) using jumpers from those 2 connections to the Line connections on the relay, or 2) having a line come directly from a circuit breaker to the relay Line connections.

From what I'm seeing in the timer diagram on the left door it appears that my SWG is wired for 240V. The screws colored red are where my SWG is connected. It looks like each 120V line is connected to the blue screw (screws 2 & 4) and then my SWG is connected to the red outgoing load screws (screws 3 & 5). Am I reading this correctly, and is it 240V?

It looks like your connection is 240v to me, but I am definitely not an electrician so it would be good to have someone make sure of that. If it is 240v, you could power the Intelliconnect with 240 and then run a jumper to the Line connections on relay one, and then wires on the load side of the relay back to the SWG controller.

 

[jklocke]

This is my understanding of how the basic wiring would go, but want to confirm.
View attachment 595183

• Would I wire the heater’s power feed directly to breaker, or to a relay in the IntelliConnect?
• For the 240V feeds to the pump, IntelliConnect, (and possibly heater), would I have a feed from the breaker to a junction box, which then splits out to equipment or is there a best practice?

Your diagram looks correct to me.

I’m not positive, but I think the heater should be wired directly and not through the Intelliconnect.

I’m not an electrician, but I know there should not be multiple wires under the contacts on the breaker. A pigtail with wire nut connections or junction box should be ok, I think. You could also use the timer box as a junction box.

I’m assuming the current timer has multiple wires under the load side, going to the heater, pump and SWG?

 

[Travis Pierce]

Jeff, you're a hero! Thank you!!!

"You could also use the timer box as a junction box." This is a great idea and leaves almost everything already wired. I'll use the existing wiring from the timer to power the new pump. The heater's already wired (with the exception of moving the fireman's switch to the IntelliConnect heater terminals), and I can replace the old booster pump timer box (which already has the conduit and possibly already wired with 240V) with the IntellIConnect. I'll just need to move the SWG power to the IntelliConnect relay, and do the sensors, RS-485, etc.)

I have seen it wired 2 ways - 1) using jumpers from those 2 connections to the Line connections on the relay, or 2) having a line come directly from a circuit breaker to the relay Line connections.

If it is 240v, you could power the Intelliconnect with 240 and then run a jumper to the Line connections on relay one, and then wires on the load side of the relay back to the SWG controller.

Does that look right?

Seriously, Jeff, your insights have been invaluable. I can't thank you enough for your guidance!

 

[jklocke]

Your wiring diagram looks good to me, and your plan sounds good. Same old disclaimer - I’m not an electrician, etc etc etc.

Glad I was able to give you some ideas to help get you ready for your install this weekend. Be sure to let us know how it goes!

 

[Travis Pierce]

Haha totally understand, and will report back!

Cheers!

 

[mtech]

Your plan sounds good. Some ideas from my recent IntelliConnect install. I have a sub-panel just like you and decided to add breakers for each of my components (pump, heater). This includes a independent breaker for the IntelliConnect. The way the IntelliConnect is designed, the power for itself is isolated from the two relays. In this way, I was able to wire my IntelliConnect and heater @ 120v. The pump runs @ 240v. The reasons I went with separate circuits allows me flexibility to shut off individual components for maintenance. Another compelling reason was to increase my remote monitoring capability. If the pump trips the GFCI, I would still know, as my IntelliConnect is still powered up, and reports the status of the pump (in my case, current amp draw, or lack thereof). If everything was wired to a single circuit, any trip would bring the IntelliConnect down, and you would not be able to decern remotely the difference from an internet outage to a more serious failure.

Also - if your switching 240v with a IntelliConnect relay, you need to ensure both hots are connected and switched throguh the relay.

 

[Travis Pierce]

@mtech thanks for the reply and for the additional considerations! I can definitely see how the individual breakers would be helpful. I may change it at some point in the future but for now, I loved the idea of keeping that timer wired and minimizing the amount of work required to make it all work.

Thanks for calling out the relay.

It’s all wired up and plumbing done, BUT as luck would have it a transformer blew in my area this morning and they don’t yet have an estimation on when the power will be restored…. Soooo I think it’s going to work, but haven’t had a chance turn it on yet. Fingers crossed.

 

[Travis Pierce]

Everything is wired up, and I can get the pump to work fine if I control it directly, but for some reason, when I use IntelliConnect, the pump starts a program, primes, and then shuts off. It seemed to work on Sat evening, but then yesterday, I couldn't get it to function via the IntelliConnect. I shut off the breaker for 10 minutes a couple of times, trying to see if it would reset an error or somehow magically fix it, but with no success. Sometimes, I can get it to continue running, but the pump speeds don't match the program it says is running. i.e., I've created a program that is manual and supposed to run at 1,500 rpm, however it'll actually run at ~2,400 rpm. When I try selecting other programs, it doesn't change.

In the meantime, I've put the IntelliConnect into Service Mode and am controlling the pump directly.

YouTube video showing pump priming and turning off

Any idea what could be causing this?

Separately, are there recommendations for the various pump settings (flow limits, pressure limits, priming speed, etc.)

 

[ajw22]

What software version do you have in your IntelliConnect?

Intelliconnect needs firmware version 1.6.1.5 or greater to work with Superflo VST or Whisperflo VST pumps. Pentair Support can push a firmware update to IntelliConnect systems connected to the internet.

 

[jklocke]

Everything is wired up, and I can get the pump to work fine if I control it directly, but for some reason, when I use IntelliConnect, the pump starts a program, primes, and then shuts off. It seemed to work on Sat evening, but then yesterday, I couldn't get it to function via the IntelliConnect. I shut off the breaker for 10 minutes a couple of times, trying to see if it would reset an error or somehow magically fix it, but with no success. Sometimes, I can get it to continue running, but the pump speeds don't match the program it says is running. i.e., I've created a program that is manual and supposed to run at 1,500 rpm, however it'll actually run at ~2,400 rpm. When I try selecting other programs, it doesn't change.

I'd start by reseating your RS-485 wires from the pump to the Intelliconnect just to make sure everything is ok there. The RS-485 block in the Intelliconnect pulls off to make it easier to screw down the connections (in case you haven't already figured that out).

You've got the newer Intelliflo3 correct? When you set up the pump in the Pentair Home app, did you add the pump under the Intelliconnect (the correct place) or did you add it as itself (which you can do because that pump can only be controlled by the app)? Make sure there is only one pump setup in the Home app.

Separately, are there recommendations for the various pump settings (flow limits, pressure limits, priming speed, etc.)

My simple pool easily primes the pump, so I have my prime speed at 2400rpm. I run the pump 24/7 at 1200rpm, which is more than enough to close the flow switch on my SWG and skim a little. In the morning I bump the speed up for an hour and do the same thing in the afternoon mostly to help clear the willow leaves that drop on my pool all day long, so I can look at a clean pool when I'm home.

 

[Travis Pierce]

@ajw22 @jklocke Thanks for the support! I'm very appreciative, and it's all working now, as hoped!

The RS-485 block in the Intelliconnect pulls off to make it easier to screw down the connections (in case you haven't already figured that out).

Ha! Thank you. I didn't realize that came out, and I even had my wife help insert those wires in since her fingers are smaller....

You've got the newer Intelliflo3 correct? When you set up the pump in the Pentair Home app, did you add the pump under the Intelliconnect (the correct place) or did you add it as itself (which you can do because that pump can only be controlled by the app)? Make sure there is only one pump setup in the Home app.

Correct, Intelliflo3 VSF 3hp (the one they brought has a screen on it, too). Ah, I had it in there twice. I'd called the one added via IntelliConnect "Pump—IntelliConnect" and was only inputting programs into that version, but that was that may have been the issue.

My simple pool easily primes the pump, so I have my prime speed at 2400rpm. I run the pump 24/7 at 1200rpm, which is more than enough to close the flow switch on my SWG and skim a little. In the morning I bump the speed up for an hour and do the same thing in the afternoon mostly to help clear the willow leaves that drop on my pool all day long, so I can look at a clean pool when I'm home.

I like that idea! I've knocked it down to the lowest prime setting (61%) and set the pump at 1200 rpm. I'll see how that works out regarding skimming and will most likely have to bump it a few times as well cause my yard is SURROUNDED by oak trees.

Thanks again!

 

[jklocke]

Glad things are working now!

How's the SWG working through the relay? Does everything seem good with that?

 

[Travis Pierce]

@jklocke It seems to be working well so far. 1,200 rpm is the minimum speed I foresee running the pump, and my SWG still runs, so I turned off the "Run filtration pump" toggle so that it wouldn't force a particular RPM when I might want something higher (heating, a bunch of people in the pool, etc.)

I don't get my water temp sensor until tomorrow, so I haven't hooked up the heater yet. I plan to leave it wired directly and just connect the fireman's switch to the InterConnect heater terminals. If I can't set a pump override or determine a specific RPM for when the heater is running in that setup, then I'll wire the heater to Relay 2 so that I can force 3,000 RPM for the heater which gets me to ~55GPM.

 

[Travis Pierce]

Whelp, issue is back… came outside and noticed the pump was off. I tried to start it back up and it primed and then shut right back off. Reset breakers and same behavior. No alerts in the app or on the pump. It did say that at 9:15 this morning it lost connection with IntelliFlo but it appears to be back online now

 

[jklocke]

Well that's not ideal!

Does the app show the pump is on when it's actually off? How did you start it back up? With the app or on the pump?

The bigger question to me is why does the pump shut off after it primes. Is it scheduled to run 24/7 at a low speed? When I power on my pump, it primes and then switches to whatever speed is scheduled to run at that time.

It might be worth a try to delete everything in the Home app, and then add the Intelliconnect, then the pump, then the SWG, and see if that helps.

After that, I say it's time to contact Pentair tech support.

 

[Travis Pierce]

I flipped the breaker and let everything reset. I then took your advice last night about removing & re-adding everything. I checked it in the app last night and today and just got home to find it was still running.

I’m hoping your advice fixed it and if I have another issue I’ll definitely be reaching out to Pentair support.

I haven’t set a timer and just have it manually running. Maybe a timer would be a good idea so that it recognizes it should be on in the event it turns off. We’re heading out of town Fri-Mon for a family reunion and hoping it doesn’t act up while away.

If I set a timer for 12:00am - 11:59, any idea if that would make it run continuously or if it would shut off for a min at the end?

This is what I have setup currently:


I ran the pump at different rpm’s to check flow rate against certain limits and saved a program for a few I thought I might use.

Thanks again for the feedback!