questions about replacing salt cell for first time

[abfab]

I've had the same T-15 cell for 7 years. I don't know how long the previous owner had it. It is giving Inspect Cell message which I cannot clear. The green generating light is on so does this mean it is working but at reduce rate?? I assume this means that it needs replacing??
The old owner left a brand new T-9 cell. I don't know why. Can I use it or do I have to replace with a T-15?
tia!

 

[JamesW]

What are the diagnostic readings?

What is the actual salinity?

What are the first seven characters of the serial number?

Is the new cell a T-3?

 

[abfab]

I corrected my post to T-9. I had a power failure overnight which tripped the breaker so these could be a little off, however I did a manual test with my reagents and got reading of 3100.
3.00
18
31.9
0.00
14p
-0.00
al-1
r1.58
t-15

do you need serial number of the cell or the panel? where do i find it on the panel. i see two bar codes.

 

[JamesW]

3.00.....Average salinity (default display)
18..........Temperature (metric)
31.9.........volts
0.00..........amps
14p........percentage
-0.00.......instant salinity
al-1..........product brand.
r1.58.........software revision
t-15............tcell type

Serial number of the box and cell. Just the first four characters.

The box serial number should start with 3A or 5A. The model should be something like AQ-RITE....Both are right next to the bar codes.

The cell serial number should start with 3E or 5E.

Also, move the switch to off for a minute then back on and recheck all diagnostic readings.

You can change from metric to standard. See video.

Your display board might be loose causing the settings to randomly change. You can reset it if necessary.

 

[abfab]

3E0907
AQR-CUL
3A1106

When I switch to super chlorinate I can see the instant salinity switching between 3000-3100 and I think was the amps that was changing.
I tried off and unplugging the cell. same result.

When you say to reset the display board do you mean just take it off and put it back on?

 

[JamesW]

Yes, turn off power and remove and reinstall the display board.

The cell is from 2009 and the box is from 2011, which is odd. The cell is usually the same age as the box or newer.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the instant salinity. It will start high and scroll down to a stable number before it goes back to zero. Note that number and do the process one more time.

Does the box say "low salt" on it?

 

[abfab]

I will try replacing the display board this weekend. When I turned it on/off I got 3000 instant salinity both times (occasionally switching to 3100).

The T-9 cell is 3E1102. This means 2011? Maybe the box was replaced but the cell was still okay? I see no signs that the T-9 was ever used. I don't know when the swg was installed, but the pool is ~20 years old and I think it was a conversion as I found some chlorine pucks in the shed.

No low salt message. That only appears when it gets below 2600 which it was after the pool was opened recently. If fact the check cell light appeared immediately but I assumed it was related to the low salt. I've been adding salt incrementally to make sure that I don't add too much which is why it's still below optimal (was planning to add more today).

I have replaced the current limiter twice - last year and two years prior, if this has any relevance.

 

[JamesW]

If the check cell light is blinking, it's just a reminder to check the cell for scale and clean if necessary. It comes on after 500 hours of operation. To clear, press the button for a few seconds until the light stops blinking.

Go to temperature and move the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto to switch back to standard measurements.

Change the percentage to 100% and recheck all diagnostic readings.

Review the video for more information.

Based on the serial numbers, I would suspect that the original cell was the T-9. Maybe the original owner got a used T-15 and swapped it out with the T-9.

To get the performance of the cell, divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity. Anything over 75% is good. Under 75% I would recommend replacing the cell.

 

[abfab]

omg, I am so dumb! I was trying to reset the check cell light by using the switch... it was a really long winter and cold spring so my pool procedure memories are clearly slow to wake up! I can't believe that I got something so obvious wrong. duh..

For future knowledge, how much longer can I expect my cell to last and can I swap it with the T-9 when the time comes? I found a post that says systems prior to 2009 can't be switch but sounds like mine can. I know it won't last as long as the T-15 but since I have it lying around I would be okay with that.

Readings at 100% were:
3100
67
26
5.21
100p
-3000
al-1
r1.58
t-15

 

[JamesW]

To get the performance of the cell, divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity. Anything over 75% is good. Under 75% I would recommend replacing the cell.

If your test result is 3,100 ppm and the box reads 3,000, that's 97% efficient for the cell performance.

Just check the performance periodically to see if it begins to decrease.

I suspect that the T-9 was probably the original cell. Maybe that's why the T-15 is lasting so long.

You can switch to the T-9 any time you like. You just have to change the setting from T-15 to T-9.

 

[abfab]

thank you so much!! glad to know it's still performing well. I'll check the performance periodically.