Question about SWG and scale.

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Some people try and run a lower output thinking it will save them in the long run.. not really. You need a certain amount of FC to meet the demand of your pool and the conditions.. that's that. Those that try and run at a lower level, usually end up with a green pool because they SWG demand isn't keeping up.. just sayin'

Yes you are not seeing a mirage. All SWG prices are skyrocketing in price. Partly a by product of the whole post Covid thang that has made all prices go up and also because the materials that go into making the cells is also used for rechargeable batteries.. so there is a lot more competition now. Be grateful you got your cell when you did.
 
mguzzy said:
Some people try and run a lower output thinking it will save them in the long run.. not really. You need a certain amount of FC to meet the demand of your pool and the conditions.. that's that. Those that try and run at a lower level, usually end up with a green pool because they SWG demand isn't keeping up.. just sayin'

Yes you are not seeing a mirage. All SWG prices are skyrocketing in price. Partly a by product of the whole post Covid thang that has made all prices go up and also because the materials that go into making the cells is also used for rechargeable batteries.. so there is a lot more competition now. Be grateful you got your cell when you did.
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Makes sense. I have a higher end SWG output than most, with the unit I have installed, from what I gather, which allows me to run it on a lower percentage, I would assume. I was just curious, in general, if that would make the lifespan be longer, or the general wear-&-tear be less, on the IC-60 I bought. If these things aren't true, then it seems I don't need the IC-60. I was told on this forum that the IC-60 would be better to buy than the IC-40. If I go to replace it someday, it sounds like I'd be no worse off just buying the IC-40 and running it at a higher percentage (hence my questions about % efficiency).

Thanks for your input!
 
An IC60 should last you longer than an IC40 IN THEORY. The cells are rated for a certain number of hours. An IC60 will produce the chlorine needed daily in less hours than an IC40 with all other things being equal, so it should last somewhat longer.

The advantage to running the cell at a lower output percentage comes into play with a VS pump in that you can be generating some chlorine most of the day (if set to 24/7) instead of only for a few hours. You will tend to have bigger peaks and valleys with a shorter run time, so you have to make sure you are generating enough FC to hold you over until the SWG turns on again the following day.
 
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DeanP66 said:
An IC60 should last you longer than an IC40 IN THEORY. The cells are rated for a certain number of hours. An IC60 will produce the chlorine needed daily in less hours than an IC40 with all other things being equal, so it should last somewhat longer.

The advantage to running the cell at a lower output percentage comes into play with a VS pump in that you can be generating some chlorine most of the day (if set to 24/7) instead of only for a few hours. You will tend to have bigger peaks and valleys with a shorter run time, so you have to make sure you are generating enough FC to hold you over until the SWG turns on again the following day.
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Thank you for your response. I'm a firm believer in 24/7 pump time. It's actually more wear and tear on the VS pump to stop them and start them back up, vs just running them 24/7. That is also what the Pentair Rep told me when he came to my house.

I feel like having a 24/7 run time, with LESS peaks & valleys, will also help protect more during a power outage... and especially during a power outage when , say, on vacation for a week. I'm just trying to think of multiple scenarios.

Again, thank you for your input!
 
Nik,

Think of the cell size like you do the gas tank on your car.. The bigger the tank, the further you can drive the car. But.. the tank size does not reduce your gas mileage, nor does it prevent other engine problems.

We always recommend a cell that is at least 2 x the volume of your pool.. An IC40 should work fine for you. The IC40 and IC60 are interchangeable.. So when the cell does go bad, your replacement cell could be either an IC40 or an IC60.

Looking at your signature it appears that you already have an IC60?? Is that true?

I think the $1,700 price includes the power center... An IC60 cell is about $1,300, and an IC40 cell is about $1,200.. So, not a lot more to get a "bigger tank".. Still much more than they used to be. :(

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Jimrahbe said:
Nik,

Think of the cell size like you do the gas tank on your car.. The bigger the tank, the further you can drive the car. But.. the tank size does not reduce your gas mileage, nor does it prevent other engine problems.

We always recommend a cell that is at least 2 x the volume of your pool.. An IC40 should work fine for you. The IC40 and IC60 are interchangeable.. So when the cell does go bad, your replacement cell could be either an IC40 or an IC60.

Looking at your signature it appears that you already have an IC60?? Is that true?

I think the $1,700 price includes the power center... An IC60 cell is about $1,300, and an IC40 cell is about $1,200.. So, not a lot more to get a "bigger tank".. Still much more than they used to be. :(

Thanks,

Jim R.
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Yup, the builder was gonna put the IC40 in, but since I figured bigger the better, I had him put in the IC60 instead. It definitely seems like it was WAY cheaper back then in late 2020.

When I'm ready to turn on the SWG, I've still got to figure out how to actually turn it on. I guess I'm assuming it's wired correctly, but who knows? I don't really trust my builder or his people much, at this point. I saw in ScreenLogic configuration, one of the pages has a checkbox to tell it I have an Intellichlor, so I'm assuming I would just click that box and hit SAVE.... After that, I don't know what to do. Is it just a matter of hitting the right arrow on the SWG till it says whatever % i'm shooting for, and it'll just "work" ? I didn't see any sort of on or off Power button on it. I also don't see anything in the phone app about the SWG, but perhaps that's because I haven't checked that "Intellichlor" box in the ScreenLogic configuration?

Thanks so much for your help, and for your Gas Tank / Car analogy.
 
Nik,

You don't really turn it on or off, but you do control the output from ScreenLogic or the EasyTouch. You do have to check the box to tell the system that you have an IntelliChlor.. When you do, you will see a screen like this..


View media item 1963

You can adjust the output level of the SWCG from this screen.. The buttons on the cell itself are not used when you have an automation system.

SWCG's are dumb as a rock as they have no brain.. You will have to be the brain and tell the SWCG what to do.. You test your FC and if low tell the SWCG to make more chlorine.. If you are too high, you tell the SWCG to make less chlorine.. This is something you will do about one a month, once you get to know your pool.. At first you want to test every day or two, just to make sure you get a feel for how things are working.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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As far as dumping the salt in, I've seen some say to do it over several days, and I've seen some say to just dump it in all at once, with the pump off, and brush till it's all dissolved, then run the pump for 24-48 hours and see what SALT level is, and go from there. Any thoughts on that?

Also, is it safe to assume that my SWG is scale free, since it has never been turned on, even though my pool plaster has a current scale problem from the clueless guy that didn't have my pool anywhere close to being balanced for nearly the first full month?
 
Open it up and look. But if it has not been powered on its probably fine. But its worth the exercise to do so you know the initial condition of the cell.

First use your test kit measure how much salt you already have Then use PoolMath effects of adding to calculate how much more you need. Then dump 3/4 of that amount into the pool and mix with your brush until dissolved, run you pump for 6-12 hrs to distribute it.. and then do it again. until you get within your target. THEN cover your ears, hide behind a tree and turn it on!
 
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mguzzy said:
Open it up and look. But if it has not been powered on its probably fine. But its worth the exercise to do so you know the initial condition of the cell.

First use your test kit measure how much salt you already have Then use PoolMath effects of adding to calculate how much more you need. Then dump 3/4 of that amount into the pool and mix with your brush until dissolved, run you pump for 6-12 hrs to distribute it.. and then do it again. until you get within your target. THEN cover your ears, hide behind a tree and turn it on!
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Lol, ok. Thanks!
 
Ok last night I put in 5 bags of salt, starting at 1,400, and targeting around 3,000 for starters. Today it just measured exactly 3,000. I just put in another 1.5 bags, which should get me around 3,500-3,600. (My intellichlor IC60 says 3,600 is ideal).
 
Nik,

I run my IC40 at about 3200... I find that when it gets in the 3500 range I can start to taste it.. Everyone is different.. The point being the 3600 is not magic number, the cell will work between 2800 and 4500 ppm.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
Nik,

I run my IC40 at about 3200... I find that when it gets in the 3500 range I can start to taste it.. Everyone is different.. The point being the 3600 is not magic number, the cell will work between 2800 and 4500 ppm.

Thanks,

Jim R.
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Oh, I see . I guess I'll let it gradually come down to 3,200 over time.

I'm kinda clueless about what to expect with various measurements throughout the day. I figured I would target 7% for starters, and use liquid chlorine to get it to 7% after the sun sets, say 8:30pm , and then turn on SWG, to say, 35% and then measure it at 8:30pm every 24 hours until it reads 7% at 8:30pm, making adjustments along the way with the SWG %. Is this a good method?

Does the FC tend to get high during the night time hours, and then gradually come back down to the target FC during the daytime?
 
Nik,

My comment about my salt level was just a heads-up.. My point was you don't have to keep it at exactly 3600, just where ever it works best for you.

Unless you have algae, your FC should not get used up after dark, so yes, if you run 24/7 the FC will be the highest first thing in the morning and the lowest right about sunset that evening.

I assume above when you said you would "target 7%" what you meant was that you will try to maintain an FC level of 7 ppm... That sounds good to me as a place to start.

We always recommend using Liquid Chlorine to initially bring the water up to your target FC level and then let the cell take over.

I'm sure it sounds like a lot of work, but after a few days, you will get a feel for what is happening and only need to test once week.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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