Question about slam

I suspect not. Chlorine is an oxidizer. So is fire. But no matter how hot you burn some plant matter ( wood, algae) there will always be some ash left. You could put a blowtorch to some wood ash and end up with hot ashes. You could empty a barrel of chlorox into the pool and there would probably be some residue left from the algae. Vacuum first. Sneak up on it and let the suction pull the dust into the vacuum and then move superslowly forward to get the next bit without creating a pressure wave that scatters the dust. Then go back and brush and anything that was stuck to the walls or floor will be loosened and stired up to either get drawn in the skimmer or to settle out for you to vacuum up next time.

Thank you! I passed all 3 tests as of this morning and I'm in the process of allowing my chlorine level drift back down to the regular level. It's at 16 now and I'm looking for 9. Please advise the next set of balancing steps for me once I get to 9 on my FC. Thanks again for the advice!!
 
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Here are my test results

FC 5.5
CC 0
CYA 60
CH 150
pH 6.8
TA 90
The chlorine has dipped to just about minimum, so do something with that. FC/CYA Levels

PH is too low but I hesitate to suggest raising it chemically. The TA reading should push that up with some aeration. If the weather and water temperature are good for swimming, the raise pH to 7.2 or a little better, just for the swimmers' sake. Otherwise, aerate.
 
The chlorine has dipped to just about minimum, so do something with that. FC/CYA Levels

PH is too low but I hesitate to suggest raising it chemically. The TA reading should push that up with some aeration. If the weather and water temperature are good for swimming, the raise pH to 7.2 or a little better, just for the swimmers' sake. Otherwise, aerate.

Ok, I just added the liquid chlorine. I'm not sure how much water movement it takes to aerate or how long it takes. I have positioned both of my returns so they point up. Definitely getting water ripple but no water is breaking the surface like a fountain or sprinkler, etc from the returns. Other than pH and FC, everything else is looking good in your opinion?
 

I have my pH up to 7.2 right now with just the aeration and little swimming that was done over the past 2 days. What number should I be looking for?
Also, my FC daily consumption has been more than the average 2-4ppm daily loss that I have been reading about, with 6.5 loss today over the 24 hour period since last evening. With that said, I figured I better recheck my CYA and it is actually 50 and not 60 like previously posted. I'm assuming that is the reason for the bigger loss but I will recheck over the next few days to get a new daily FC loss.

My single speed pump also runs 24/7 per the pool builders recommendation. Since I don't have a variable speed pump, what are your thoughts on that as well?
 
pH should be between 7.2 and 8.0. If it rises above 8, target 7.6 when you adjust.

50 vs 60 CYA wouldn't account for that huge loss. A whole bunch of swimmers might, especially if some have weak bladders. Also, old bleach might be confusing the issue. If you bought it at a big box store, it might be leftovers from last year! So it's weaker, which means you don't hit your target, and when you test again, it looks like you lost a lot. So check the date codes. And if you can't blame it on weak bleach, try Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

Of course the builder says 24/7. It doesn't hurt the water any and he's not paying the bill. I, too have a single speed pump. Mine runs two hours a day plus whatever extra it gets when I vacuum. I'd start by cutting it down to 6 hours and watch it for a week. But wait until you've passed the OCLT. You don't want to confuse algae with filtering. There's a whole article on pump time. Determine Pump Run Time - Trouble Free Pool
 

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pH should be between 7.2 and 8.0. If it rises above 8, target 7.6 when you adjust.

50 vs 60 CYA wouldn't account for that huge loss. A whole bunch of swimmers might, especially if some have weak bladders. Also, old bleach might be confusing the issue. If you bought it at a big box store, it might be leftovers from last year! So it's weaker, which means you don't hit your target, and when you test again, it looks like you lost a lot. So check the date codes. And if you can't blame it on weak bleach, try Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

Of course the builder says 24/7. It doesn't hurt the water any and he's not paying the bill. I, too have a single speed pump. Mine runs two hours a day plus whatever extra it gets when I vacuum. I'd start by cutting it down to 6 hours and watch it for a week. But wait until you've passed the OCLT. You don't want to confuse algae with filtering. There's a whole article on pump time. Determine Pump Run Time - Trouble Free Pool

There wasn't a lot of swimming today but there was yesterday and they swam almost up to my evening check and addition. My FC was 10.5 after the addition. There was also several bird droppings in the pool when I got home from work today. My chlorine isn't listed in the date code article so I don't know how to tell the date. When I add chlorine and check the rise an hour later, the rise appears to be consistent with the app in what I was supposed to add per the desired FC level. Also, the pool is in full sun for 10-11 hours and uncovered all the time if that matters in FC loss. My OCLT was passed last week 2 days in a row and the pool is spotless. I can do another test though for that.
 
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pH should be between 7.2 and 8.0. If it rises above 8, target 7.6 when you adjust.

50 vs 60 CYA wouldn't account for that huge loss. A whole bunch of swimmers might, especially if some have weak bladders. Also, old bleach might be confusing the issue. If you bought it at a big box store, it might be leftovers from last year! So it's weaker, which means you don't hit your target, and when you test again, it looks like you lost a lot. So check the date codes. And if you can't blame it on weak bleach, try Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

Of course the builder says 24/7. It doesn't hurt the water any and he's not paying the bill. I, too have a single speed pump. Mine runs two hours a day plus whatever extra it gets when I vacuum. I'd start by cutting it down to 6 hours and watch it for a week. But wait until you've passed the OCLT. You don't want to confuse algae with filtering. There's a whole article on pump time. Determine Pump Run Time - Trouble Free Pool

Update from the last 2 days daily FC loss.....4.5 ppm both days at an exact 24 hour interval
 
Take Richard320's advice. The 24 hour interval is mildly interesting but doesn't tell you anything. The OCLT will tell you if any of your loss is because you have organics in your pool which is VERY meaningful.
 
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