Pump not running and 20 degrees F

Jul 8, 2017
26
Memphis /Tennessee
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Cold night, for us last night. I don't close pool in winter, I run the pump when <35F and this has worked good for several years. Sometimes have difficulty getting basket/pot lid to seal and prime. Power was going on and off about every 20 minutes early this morning. The lid NEVER seals and regains prime when power has been interrupted. I must fiddle with the o-ring seal every time to get it right. To make a short story long, (Ha!) I got tired of doing this several times last evening and turned the pump off. I am confident the flex line to Polaris and water in PVC pipes are frozen. The pump does work. Pump is still off, thin sheet of ice in pool, and it is about 21 degrees, but is supposed to warm to 32 about 2:00 p.m. Should I panic, (which I am good at), or try few of methods to get the system running again? I am considering a few options to get out of this mess. I look forward to your suggestions. Thanks.

1.) When temperature is warmest today, spray my garden hose water over pool equipment in hopes to thaw it?

2.) Build a crude tent with a tarp over equipment and use space heater?

3.) Do nothing, and wait until tomorrow when temperature should be over 40F, but below 15F following night?
 
And fix the pump strainer lid gasket. Might just need some pool lube or a new gasket. Possible the lid is warped. All repairable.

And I would do #2 also, but do not leave the space heater unattended. A 100W incandescent bulb in a drop light fixture will keep the area warmer over night.

Take care.
 
Thanks everyone. Crisis averted! After ambient temperature increased, I thoroughly cleaned and dried basket/pot lid and seat. Replaced lid, turned on pump and everything seems to be working normally. If something similar reoccurs, I will do a variation of #2 above and place my patio heater in the pump/filter area in an attempt to prevent freezing water lines and apparatus. :D
 
Another option that does not depend upon power being active is to drain the pad equipment of water. This is guaranteed to protect the plumbing and equipment. If the pool water is that cold, then algae will not be a problem and you can go several weeks without running a pump (I have done it).
 
To crack the skimmer, all of the water in the skimmer would need to freeze and be contained but if that is the case, then really the pool should be closed properly. However, a thin sheet of ice on the pool surface does not pose much of a risk because there is plenty of room for the ice to expand downward.

You can also protect a skimmer with an empty soda bottle with rocks in the bottom.
 
To crack the skimmer, all of the water in the skimmer would need to freeze and be contained but if that is the case, then really the pool should be closed properly. However, a thin sheet of ice on the pool surface does not pose much of a risk because there is plenty of room for the ice to expand downward.

You can also protect a skimmer with an empty soda bottle with rocks in the bottom.

Correct & rarely understood.

Though I’d never skip the precautions to absorb ice expansion in a skimmer (various devices & removing lid screws, screws rarely used in residential) based on my own “studies” damaged in-ground skimmers (excluding piping) are always surrounded by failed decking.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.