When POOL mode starts, the priming cycle starts but does not complete. It continues to run at high speed instead of slowing after a minute. Through the pump lid, instead of seeing turbulent gushing water, I see only a bit of water coming in; the chamber does not get full. There is no suction in either skimmer, no movement of water at all. This is the same no matter which suction combination of drain/skimmers.
Pump Not Priming?
- Thread starter Fredsanchez
- Start date
Fred,
Thanks for the info..
Either you have a massive air leak going into the pump and I kind of doubt that as the main drain, each skimmer all have the same issue.
Maybe the impeller has broken or come loose..
When the pump runs low on water, the water can get very hot and actually warp the wet end of the pump, so that the lid will not seal.
Maybe the automated Intake valve is actually broken. The actuator moves, but the actual valve that controls the water flow does not move. We have seen this before and it would be easy to open and check out.
Another test you can do is run a slow stream of water over the wet end of the pump when it is trying to prime. It is makes the pump prime, it means the lid is leaking.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Thanks for the info..
Either you have a massive air leak going into the pump and I kind of doubt that as the main drain, each skimmer all have the same issue.
Maybe the impeller has broken or come loose..
When the pump runs low on water, the water can get very hot and actually warp the wet end of the pump, so that the lid will not seal.
Maybe the automated Intake valve is actually broken. The actuator moves, but the actual valve that controls the water flow does not move. We have seen this before and it would be easy to open and check out.
Another test you can do is run a slow stream of water over the wet end of the pump when it is trying to prime. It is makes the pump prime, it means the lid is leaking.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Another test you can do is run a slow stream of water over the wet end of the pump when it is trying to prime. It is makes the pump prime, it means the lid is leaking.
Do you mean keep the lid off and pour into the pump basket?
Do you mean keep the lid off and pour into the pump basket?
Fred,
Sorry, no... The idea is that if the lid is leaking air, it will suck in the water instead and you will instantly see the results. Obviously, when you remove the hose, it will start leaking again, but if it works, it is telling you that the lid and pump body are not air tight as they should be.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Sorry, no... The idea is that if the lid is leaking air, it will suck in the water instead and you will instantly see the results. Obviously, when you remove the hose, it will start leaking again, but if it works, it is telling you that the lid and pump body are not air tight as they should be.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Hi Jim,
Thank you for your continued help. I was able to try the slow stream of water test today and none of the water was being sucked into the pump. I will keep looking for leaks in daylight hours.
The one major difference I have noticed is when the pump is on there is air flowing out of the right side up and out (see attached picture). It is extremely forceful that I can feel at the end of the pad. No air blows out the left side and the pump did not do this before. What would cause so much wind to blow?
Thank you for your continued help. I was able to try the slow stream of water test today and none of the water was being sucked into the pump. I will keep looking for leaks in daylight hours.
The one major difference I have noticed is when the pump is on there is air flowing out of the right side up and out (see attached picture). It is extremely forceful that I can feel at the end of the pad. No air blows out the left side and the pump did not do this before. What would cause so much wind to blow?
Attachments
Fred,
The motor has a fan that sucks air in the back and dumps it out where your red circle is. When running at high speed (Priming) there is a lot of air being pushed through the motor.
Let's see what @JamesW thinks about your priming issue.
Thanks,
Jim R.
The motor has a fan that sucks air in the back and dumps it out where your red circle is. When running at high speed (Priming) there is a lot of air being pushed through the motor.
Let's see what @JamesW thinks about your priming issue.
Thanks,
Jim R.
There is a big fan in the back.
It has always been blowing air.
The drive should also have a sticker.
The pump should have about 5 stickers.
Can you show what was done from the records?
Was the pump replaced or just the motor or what?
It looks like the pool pump and/or the booster pump have had a seal leak for a long time.
You can see green algae in the wet spot and that only happens when the concrete stays wet for a long time.
I would replace the pump seal and gaskets.
Also, replace the Polaris booster pump seal if it is leaking.
The pump fittings for the inlet and outlet might be warped or shrank from running dry.
I would replace the inlet and outlet with high temp unions.
21063-200-000. 2" MIP; 2" Socket.
www.c-m-p.com
You can see green algae in the wet spot and that only happens when the concrete stays wet for a long time.
I would replace the pump seal and gaskets.
Also, replace the Polaris booster pump seal if it is leaking.
The pump fittings for the inlet and outlet might be warped or shrank from running dry.
I would replace the inlet and outlet with high temp unions.
21063-200-000. 2" MIP; 2" Socket.
High-Temp Union - CMP
www.c-m-p.com
Stickers are numbered 1-4 from front to back. Sticker 1 is dated 2012 when pool was built, sticker 2 has a 2020 date, sticker 3 has a 2021 date. When we bought the place the previous owner provided receipts for replacing a Jandy Check Valve that failed due to a freeze and a pentair replacement motor 3.2kW PMSM VFD 350105S later in 2021.
Attachments
Ok, I would replace the seal.
I suspect that the seal and maybe the seal plate are damaged.
I suspect that the seal and maybe the seal plate are damaged.
I was finally able to get outside to take apart the pump. Here are some pictures. The blue liquid seal was probably applied over the gasket when the previous owner switched out the motor in 2020. Does this automatically mean I need to replace the seal plate also? Other than that (and for future reference), what do you look for when visually inspecting the seal and seal plate to know they need to be replaced?
Attachments
The seal plate looks ok as long as you can get the blue goo off.
I would change the seal and gaskets.
I would change the seal and gaskets.
I also noticed leaking from the top of the filter. The o-ring at the base of the multiport valve is visibly cracked. Do I need to take the MPV apart and check any other parts before I order replacements, or just order the o-ring? Will I need to re-pipe to remove and re-attach the MPV, or is there usually enough clearance to do the replacement without cutting pipe?
